looking forward to it. I am in the same boat.

Reduce your time by utilizing a cordless drill to remove and install bolts . A drill with adjustable torque is best . It will reduce time on your back and wrenching of the neck.
Pick 4 of the easiest bolts to get to and leave them for last ( at the four corners) .
Undo the front 2 first and let the pan rest on the crossmember . Then you will be able to see if the crank needs to be rotated. Then the last 2 to drop pan.
I just used a Felpro gasket ( non cork) , get them from Autozone.
Make sure pan isn't dimpled at bolt holes , work it flat if needed.
Install in reverse order.
I usually start all the bolts with my fingers and then use the cordless to set them. Then follow up with a 1/4" ratchet.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

And I use a dab of sealant to hold the gasket to the PAN. And a dab of sealant at the lip seals . You don't need anymore gasket sealant then that


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

that's a pretty good written how-to. I'll try doing this next month. going to get a right angle drill for christmas

Sent from my LG-D850 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Don't need a right angle drill at all. If the car is jacked up you have plenty of room for standard drill- might use an extension actually


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Don't need a right angle drill at all. If the car is jacked up you have plenty of room for standard drill- might use an extension actually


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

when you did yours, was the car jacked only in the front or was whole car on stands (level)

Sent from my LG-D850 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Great advise madkaw. I think the bolts above the cross member are going to be the issue. Nothing serious, just looks like they will be hard to get to. 

I'm going to have all 4 corners off the ground. 

Great advise madkaw. I think the bolts above the cross member are going to be the issue. Nothing serious, just looks like they will be hard to get to. 

a slim ratchet with socket looks like it would slip between the cross member and pan.

Sent from my LG-D850 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

2 hours ago, FreshZ said:

a slim ratchet with socket looks like it would slip between the cross member and pan.

Yeah, hopefully. Might be fun getting the correct torque setting though. I'll figure something out and then post it.

Actually, a ratchet wrench might work in that spot. Home Depot (Husky brand) has some slim ones. On mine there is actually a philips bolt in one of those spots. It made easy access for that one only.  

As for torque, "use the force Luke".  When you torque the others, just remember how far on average you go past snug and that should be pretty close. Enough for an oil pan anyway.  2 cents coming at cha'.

Edited December 9, 20168 yr by gwri8