rcb280z Posted December 9, 2016 Author Share #25 Posted December 9, 2016 3 hours ago, gwri8 said: As for torque, "use the force Luke". Haha, I was thinking the same thing! Too funny. I do have a ratchet wrench. I bought some parts dip today to soak the bolts when I remove them. They are so guncked up that they look like 12mm bolts instead of 10mm. That's how bad the leak has gotten. I may do the front seal will I'm under there. You know, "While your under there" syndrome. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwri8 Posted December 9, 2016 Share #26 Posted December 9, 2016 My first "big" project on mine was the front seal. The PO said it was using about a qt of oil every 700 or so miles. Turns out it was all going out the front seal. It….was….everywhere, including all down the oil pan. Might be part of your issue? It took 2 cans of engine degreaser and a roll of shop towels to get most of it. And In case you didn't know, engine degreaser kills grass and dirt for a long, long time. So be careful with that. Personal experience speaking here. Now you get to pull the radiator and fan also, which is not to terrible. If it is leaking bad up there, be sure to check your crank for wear. Sometimes it gets a groove in it from the previous seal. You might have to put a sleeve on it. O'Reillys carries that part if you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted December 9, 2016 Share #27 Posted December 9, 2016 That's why I said find 4 bolts that are very easy to access and save them for last. You can always set up a jack stand or wood to hold pan for when dropping the last few bolts. The crossmember will help with the front , but you can use something for the back. That way the pan wouldn't hang from any bolts and tweak the panSent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcb280z Posted December 9, 2016 Author Share #28 Posted December 9, 2016 My front seal is just oozing right now. No drip. I think I can replace it without removing the radiator. Oh yeah the engine degreaser I have used in the past is toxic on just about everything it comes in contact with. I'll be using it in the garage with the doors open and lots of rags and towels. Just going to take my time and do it right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted December 9, 2016 Share #29 Posted December 9, 2016 Castrol Super Clean is really good for degreasing. Will even remove synthetics. Just don't let it dry on aluminum. . Supposedly Bio-degradable too. Regarding pan bolts. I always clean them thoroughly, wash off any solvent with Brake Clean. Then install them with one drop of Medium strength thread locker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundee Posted December 10, 2016 Share #30 Posted December 10, 2016 7 hours ago, Chickenman said: Castrol Super Clean is really good for degreasing. Will even remove synthetics. Just don't let it dry on aluminum. . Supposedly Bio-degradable too. +1 Best I have ever used for engine compartments for all the cars I have had. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfa.series1 Posted December 10, 2016 Share #31 Posted December 10, 2016 Another vote for Super Clean - be sure to glove up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted December 10, 2016 Share #32 Posted December 10, 2016 Fast Orange hand cleaner is remarkable as a "spot cleaner" and wipes clean with a wet rag... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreshZ Posted December 10, 2016 Share #33 Posted December 10, 2016 I'll have to try the orange hand cleaner method. seems like a good healthy choiceSent from my LG-D850 using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheee! Posted December 10, 2016 Share #34 Posted December 10, 2016 Just don't rub hard as it is abrasive to the paint. Gently wipe with a wet paper cloth and a small amount of hand cleaner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gundee Posted December 10, 2016 Share #35 Posted December 10, 2016 I pulled the pan in car on my 240 with a L28 engine. Just used combination of hand tools to get all the bolts out. Not too bad as I recall. What I soon found out is that pan does not just pull out. There is a little something called an oil pick up in the pan that of course is bolted to the block. The next thing I did was unbolt the motor mounts to lift engine some to wiggle pan out. Nope, that did not work. Next you have to reach in with a box end wrench and loosen the pickup. Still a struggle, so I removed the pickup all together. Then the pan came right out. Bead blasted old peeling paint off pan. Then primed and painted. Then a coat of clear. This step makes for wiping the pan in the future easier. Install in reverse order, but don't get in a hurry and scratch the new paint like I did. I used the felpro pan gasket. I used all new s.s. bolts and washers. If you are going to use the old bolts you may as well paint them as well to make job look good. First time I ever did it so had no idea what it was going to entail. Not real fun doing on your back but got her done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FreshZ Posted December 10, 2016 Share #36 Posted December 10, 2016 Does the 240z have a more restrictive area that creates this issue when using the L28? I don't recall 280z owners mentioning this as one of their issuesSent from my LG-D850 using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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