Hauling a Z on a trailer

[siteunseen]

The one I got was grey like Mr Arnett's and the tie down hooks were at the rear, beside the brake lights.  I used regular cheapo ratchet straps and looped the ends around the axle and connected the hook to the strap, as I tightened them it pulled that tighter.  To be honest the front tire harnesses and ratchets will hold the car fine by themselves.  The rear ones just kept the rear of my car from bouncing while in transit, FYI, no need in anything fancy.  I didn't even cross mine, just straight back. 

[siteunseen]

7 minutes ago, cbuczesk said:

 I put the car in gear and pull the hand brake on tight before strapping it down. 

 

I wondered about that Chuck and decided to tighten all my straps down then put the car in gear and the E-brake on.  My thinking was the straps would have a constant pull on my tranny and E-brake.  To each his own. 

Oh yeah!  Don't forget to let the driver's side fender down on the trailer before you pull onto it.  You'll be climbing out the hatch if you forget.

[jfa.series1]

If the car has alloy wheels, axle straps can be run thru the spokes and hooked to ratchet straps.  I suggest a "X" pattern on the ratchet straps to eliminate side-to-side movement.  I strongly recommend leaving the car in neutral during towing.  Any forward/back rocking can damage the driveline - I've heard of snapped crankshafts.  Handbrake on is a good idea.

For a 250 mile trip, pull the car full forward and use the supplied front wheel straps.  Yeah, you'll likely be over the Lexus recommended tongue weight as I was but it should not be a problem for a short trip.  Cross-country - different story.

[rcb280z]

6 hours ago, cbuczesk said:

want the Z a little forward on most open trailers

Just recently helped a neighbor load his daughters suv on a dual axle trailer and was told to center the vehicle on the trailer axles. He said it was "safer" this way. Interesting. Made it to the shop with no issues but then again it was a short trip. So forget what I said in post 6, feel stupid now.

 

[loudoun]

I have used a U-Haul trailer to haul 240Zs several times across NC.  The trailers are great. Put the Z on nose first (I usually have to use a come along for parts cars).  Once on, use the provided straps for the front tires.  Then, make sure you have a good set of heavy duty straps, not the cheap 4 pack from Harbor Freight!  Make sure to use the straps in a way that the car does not roll backward...or forward.  Cinch the car down and them drive for a mile.  Stop and retighten.  Then, every time you stop make sure the straps are tight.

[Rij Martin]

When I bought my z we took it about 60 miles like the picture, but heard that it puts a lot of wear on the transmission.? Not very sure, it was a while ago. Bdcause of that, after the first 60 miles we turned the car around and backed it on the trailer. We just locked the steering wheel then put some tow straps around the steering wheel to make sure it was secure. It comfortably went about 250 miles at 70mph sitting like that. I apologize for not having a picture, I am trying to hunt one down.

[Rij Martin]

[siteunseen]

15 hours ago, rcb280z said:

Just recently helped a neighbor load his daughters suv on a dual axle trailer and was told to center the vehicle on the trailer axles. He said it was "safer" this way. Interesting. Made it to the shop with no issues but then again it was a short trip. So forget what I said in post 6, feel stupid now.

 

Don't feel too bad.  With the U-Haul trailer I used the car had to be pulled all the way forward with the front tires up against the front lip of the trailer.  The front tires roll over the strap then you pull the strap up and over the tires, ratcheting them down.  Really no other way, the straps and ratchets are not movable plus you have to have some tongue weight.

Like Loudoun's picture above.

 

[sweatybetty]

13 hours ago, idgemartin said:

When I bought my z we took it about 60 miles like the picture, but heard that it puts a lot of wear on the transmission.?

only if it is an auto transmission. manual trans doesnt matter

[Darrel]

Go to your nearest tire shop make sure your tires on the tow vehicle are set to max or close to it. Don't try those coin operated compressors or you will be spending at least $5 and take forever to air up your tires.

If your receiver hitch is straight then you should be good. If it has an angle to it then make sure the ball will be at the highest point. 

I helped Lonetree steve pick up a 240 earlier this year in Cheyenne, we came up from denver. He had a suburban and low tire pressure. The hitch was mounted low and barely cleared some of the roads. That was a long night just to get it loaded with a couple of flat tires. Used a come along and also had to raise the front of the trailer to get the 240 to clear the back end of the trailer. That due to the flat tire on the 240.

I picked up a 620 pu, that was in grand junction. It towed fine, ran into a little snow on a couple of the mountain passes.

[Mike]

Well I have her loaded up and ready to go. I purchased a few things during my visit to u-haul. I picked up a set of differential straps, which I used for the rear cross bracing. I also noticed my existing hitch ball was a bit low so I purchased a new ball and flipped the tongue over to give it a bit more lift. Other than that it all looks pretty good. Check out some pics I took this morning. On the road now and typing this from my rig while I fill up with super unleaded.
















Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[Mike]

By the way, the straps going into the hatch are just the left over excess from the ratchet tie downs. I'm not actually tying down to the hatch.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile