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1975 280 transmission/rear main it begins


Dave WM

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I have been putting this off, but may as well start while its cool outside.

1st order of business is to get a system in place to safely support the car.

I have some metal ramps, so I rolled up on the front then jacked the rear and put those in place (to low to roll up)

next I cut up some 6x6 into 2 ft lengths, those will go UNDER  the ramps just in case the metal ramps fail.

I also have some large jack stands that will go on the flat part of the TC bushing mounts

and a floor jack at the crossmember. the idea is to have some of the weight carried by the wheels and suspension, and some carried by the floor jacks. Several contact points all spread about.

5 in total the 2 on the tires, 2 on the jack stands, and 1 on the front member.

I also will be getting some 2*6 cut into 2ft lengths, these will go on the front and back of the metal stands (floor jack the center of the stand and then slip them in on the front and back, then lower back and pull all the 6*6's back). This should allow me to lift even higher and still use the wheels as a major part of the system. I am using a similar system on the back (5 points of contact).

after I get the entire shebang setup I will shoot a short video of it. The goal is to be safe and have plenty of room for an old guy like me to contort under.

Once that is done the next thing will be to see about removing the exhaust manifold down pipe and the cat converter so I can get the heat shield out of the way and get better access to the drive shaft.

 

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Make sure you get the car high enough to slide the transmission out.  It needs to be higher than you'd guess.  There's not as much room under the wheel well as you'd think.

Another tip - use your car's scissor jack to hold the rear of the engine up.  Makes it easy to adjust the engine angle slightly also for installation.

Disconnect your throttle linkage if you decide to drop the rear of the engine.  And don't let the fan blades hit the radiator.  You'll probably need to drop it slightly to pull the transmission back.

Edited by Zed Head
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Yes, get it as high off the ground as you can. I put ramps under the rear tires with the lowest end pointing to the back. You'll have to use a jack to get them under the rear tires. I learned the hard way. Transmission loose but couldn't get it out from the sides. 

+1 on an adjustable jack for the motor. I even tied mine through the hoods receiving latch while the work was done on the trans.

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Going to get some more 2*8s and cut them into 2 ft long that way I can creep the ramps up (2 inch at a time)with the car on them, jack up the middle and slip in on the front and back of the jack. once I get it as high as I dare I will use the 4*4's to fill in the middle of the ramps. Played with it some more tonight. Have some large (12 ton) floor jacks, they will extend much higher without becoming unstable (wide base) so those will be used (I was using the 3 ton but they were maxed out a the TC bush plate). I am sure I can get that sucker up there. I will prob pop for the trans jack from HF, I tried balancing my 5 speed on the floor jack, doable but again that's not under the car. Got the scissor jack all ready to go under engine, thanks for the tip ZH.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I may forgo the dolly completely and try some "moving men" which are plastic slider, put them on the 4 corners of the ply wood base (will be larger than shown) that will drop it a good 3"-4" will just have to see how easy they slide on the garage floor (carpeted).

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I picked up from a local Nissan dealer the rear main and side seals, I suspect my slow oil leak is from the main, will confirm when I get the clutch off.

The carpet is a HD indoor outdoor type, vacuum up mess, but its pretty much oil soaked after all these years. I will end up pulling it up some day. I would like to install a mid rise lift but that will only be if we stay here. I would much rather move up to north Ga/East Tn and make a proper shop.

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