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starter wiring HELP!


malder

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I fear the previous owner may have jury rigged some of the electrical. I have the Haynes manual, but I still am not clear on how the started should be connected. I just bought a new starter and am trying to hook it up.

Haynes p.150 fig 10.19 shows 's' 'b' 'm' terminals. I found the black and yellow that goes to the 's' terminal, but I don't see any black cable for the 'b' terminal. Is this the negative battery cable? What is supposed to be on the 'm' terminal? Where does the battery positive connect to?

Thanks for all the help!:stupid:

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If i remember right, the negative battery cable is bolted at the upper starter mount (bolt goes thru the cable end & into the tranny housing)

The positive cable bolts to the solenoid, then a spade connector slides on the end of the solenoid, to actuate the whole deal.

Oh, and i think there's an attachment from the wiring harness that bolts on with the + cable too...

Hope that helps, Jeremiah

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OK, that is how I figured. I hooked it up that way and when I try to start it the starter is DOA. I turn the key and the tach bounces a bit and settles of 4k, the brake light is on and all the other electronics (lights, antenna, etc...) seem to work fine.

Any idea what this might be?

Thanks

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Think of a fusible link as a giant wire fuse.

On my 260, there are 2 of them, mounted in a box on the fender in front of the battery. The 240 i haven't been in recently- but i think there's a heavy maybe white/red wire from the wiring harness down by the starter? Got a manual??

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  • 3 months later...

what do you use for the replacement of the fusible links? yes, they are just wires, but obviously they have to be rated at a certain amperage (being fusible and all) ....but none of my manuals say what rating. I don't want to just hook new wires in there and fry the starter/alternator. does anybody know?

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There are kits at the auto parts store. I had a bad fusable link to my starter as well, but it was quite obvious that it was bad, since it was mostly rust. In 74 they moved them to boxes up on the firewall (as AxtellZ noted). I did have to rebuild the cable with the original plastic connector on one end. The other end came with the kit.

Just remove the cable and take it with you to estimate the gauge.

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