Hey guys, 

I'm about to build my first L28 stroker engine. So far I have all the parts ready/ordered except the head gasket. 

- L28 F54 block, bored to 89mm
- L28 N42 head
- LD28 crank
- L24 conrods (with 8mm ARP bolts)  L24 forged H-beam conrods, ARP bolts
- resurfaced rockers and reground cam from Delta (282deg advertised duration, 234deg@0.005", 0.450" lift)
- MSA performance springs & retainers (?)  <- to be discussed
- KA24E pistons (almost flat top, 2.8cc dish)
- E12-80 dizzy (D6K8-02)
- SFI Spec harmonic damper
- SU carbs with SM needles, fully refurbished

My questions are: 

• Should I go for 10.2 or 9.7 static compression (2 vs. 2.5mm HG)
• Will the mechanical fuel pump still work for that setup
• Any idea about the lash pad size needed? I'd guess 0.175"? I have to order them from the US to Germany, therefore I would like to avoid ordering several times ;-)

..did I miss something? Thank you

 

Edited January 12, 20178 yr by german240

Looks like a nice build.  Only thing I would add is the better turbo oil pump.

I would shoot for the  higher 10.2 compression.

I've thought about getting the turbo pump. Is it really necessary? Or, in other words, is there any record of a failure due to the stock pump?

CR wise I'm really unsure. I'm afraid of loosing to much spark advance with a high CR. This would cost  a lot more HP than a lower CR with 32-34deg total advance, right? 

 

Edited December 27, 20168 yr by german240

Static compression only effects the starter. Your cam will mitigate the higher compression if you select the correct one. I would use an electric fuel pump. Fuel starvation kills engines. Oh, and the L motors love compression. I once overheated and had to rebuild and shave the head. Wow!

Regarding the lashpads you will not know for sure till you do a wipe test. Very important to get the geometry setup right. 

 

What kind of fuel can you get in Germany? Part of the issue in the US is not all fuels are available in all areas of the country. Conedoger is correct the cam can mitigate the static compression number. Be sure you get the crank checked really well. They need to good and straight. Also I would balance the whole assembly, including the flywheel you plan on using. Don't put an old damper on this new engine, either get one remanned or buy a better one. Also get all your rods and crank magnafluxed for cracks. I would shot peen them too if you have anyone that can do that for you...

1 hour ago, Patcon said:

What kind of fuel can you get in Germany? Part of the issue in the US is not all fuels are available in all areas of the country. Conedoger is correct the cam can mitigate the static compression number. Be sure you get the crank checked really well. They need to good and straight. Also I would balance the whole assembly, including the flywheel you plan on using. Don't put an old damper on this new engine, either get one remanned or buy a better one. Also get all your rods and crank magnafluxed for cracks. I would shot peen them too if you have anyone that can do that for you...

I would add to what Patton said, balance everything as an assembly, including the clutch and pressure plate. In fact, buy a second clutch and pressure plate so you have a spare when you wear the first one out. The long cranks in the L motors do not like imbalance!

On 27.12.2016 at 11:11 PM, moelk said:

Regarding the lashpads you will not know for sure till you do a wipe test. Very important to get the geometry setup right. 

 

I know - I just want to avoid to order several kits (they are $80 each). Maybe I can get away with the first try/guess 

On 28.12.2016 at 0:45 AM, Patcon said:

What kind of fuel can you get in Germany? Part of the issue in the US is not all fuels are available in all areas of the country. Conedoger is correct the cam can mitigate the static compression number. Be sure you get the crank checked really well. They need to good and straight. Also I would balance the whole assembly, including the flywheel you plan on using. Don't put an old damper on this new engine, either get one remanned or buy a better one. Also get all your rods and crank magnafluxed for cracks. I would shot peen them too if you have anyone that can do that for you...

I'll get the crankshaft rebuild (0.25mm shaved) and balanced. In Germany you get all kind of fuels: Regular (90 octane), Premium (93 octane) and "special" fuel but also from the gas station with 95 octane. All ratings (ROZ+MOZ)/2. 

Regarding the damper: I plan on buying this one. Thoughts?

 

On 27.12.2016 at 10:52 PM, conedodger said:

Static compression only effects the starter. Your cam will mitigate the higher compression if you select the correct one. I would use an electric fuel pump. Fuel starvation kills engines. Oh, and the L motors love compression. I once overheated and had to rebuild and shave the head. Wow!

Interesting. I heard that L series DON'T like compression at all  - that they are prone to pinging. Thanks guys!

Edited December 29, 20168 yr by german240

Interesting. I heard that L series DON'T like compression at all  - that they are prone to pinging. Thanks guys!

That's why you wanna get good ignition system

I got size 175 or 190 together with my cam kit from zstore. When I did the wipe test I had to correct the size (grind them down) on most of them to get it right.

German240.....I'm starting a build on a stroker myself. I have the LD crank, F54 block and a shaved and shimmed P79 head (Z Doc built). I'm trying to figure what bore ( .080, .120 or .160 ) to do. Also, the rod / piston combo. My good friend Eiji is going to help me with the logistics and performance goodies.....I'll stay in touch with what he recommends. You may want to contact him at Datsun Spirit to source some parts.....forged pistons and rods are very expensive though.....Good luck.

Guy

I just ordered ARP bolts since I got 8mm L24 conrods. I'd guess they are stronger than stock 9mm bolts. 

@Diseazd Please keep me updated! I still don't know if a 10.2-10.3 CR is too high..