November 25, 20177 yr Author comment_535799 Today I weight matched a rocker arm set. Now all rockers are within 5g. This how I found out that I need 4mm lash pads - added a 1mm metal strip, wipe pattern was perfectly centered then: Checked all valves with stock pad and stock pad+1mm Rechecked it with the new lash pads (top quality - got them from precision shims australia)  Finally, I added a green line of permanent paint marker to each rocker - it will last for some hours of engine running and allows to easily check if everything is still working like it should Setting valve lash Finding true TDC  Set a marking at the backside of the crank. That way I can easily check the accuracy of the ignition timing pointer! COMETIC multi layer steel gasket (2mm) 280ZX Turbo head bolts, new OEM  Double checked conrod-crankcase clearance (had a bad feeling). 1mm (0.04"), pretty tight, but should work. I don't want to remove any more material as it weakens the main oil gallery (not sure about the wall thickness!) But now a real show stopper: I got the wrong timing chain. Ordered the right one, but received a different kit wit 44 instead of 42 links between the bright marks. So engine work is on hold until the new kit arrives (probably around mid december). For now I put the valve cover on.  And worked on the steering wheel Before: During refurbishment:  After: Looks much better than on the picture! Deep gloss, glass like finish   Edited November 26, 20177 yr by german240 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535799 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 25, 20177 yr comment_535803 Looks great. Â Nice detail touch. What would you say the lash pads are in inches I guess, .150s, .175s, .190s? I'm doing this soon and my cam kit came with .190s. Â I'm worried how much I'll have to shave off for my .490 reground cam from Schneider. Â Thanks, Cliff. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535803 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 25, 20177 yr Author comment_535804 Hey Cliff, 4mm equals 0.160 inches. My cam is reground, too. But "only" .460" valve lift. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535804 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 26, 20177 yr comment_535838 I'm almost certain mine will need to be .175" after reading a couple of threads were the same cam was used. You're progress "updates" are going to get me started on mine very soon, I hope. The pictures are fantastic.   Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535838 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 26, 20177 yr comment_535842 16 hours ago, siteunseen said: Looks great.  Nice detail touch. What would you say the lash pads are in inches I guess, .150s, .175s, .190s? I'm doing this soon and my cam kit came with .190s.  I'm worried how much I'll have to shave off for my .490 reground cam from Schneider.  Thanks, Cliff. Eiji built my head with a Schneider .495 lift cam....he used .220 lash pads....centered perfect. .160’s should be about right for a .460 Cam. Trial and error, since the valve stem height can be different on machined heads depending on how much the seats are ground. Try the .190’s......might work. German240....I like the permanent green dye idea...... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535842 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 26, 20177 yr comment_535894 7 hours ago, Diseazd said: Eiji built my head with a Schneider .495 lift cam....he used .220 lash pads....centered perfect. .160’s should be about right for a .460 Cam. Trial and error, since the valve stem height can be different on machined heads depending on how much the seats are ground. Try the .190’s......might work. German240....I like the permanent green dye idea...... Fingers crossed. You have those P79s decked .030 so maybe, hopefully, for a change something might be easy. .220 - .030 =.190  Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535894 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 26, 20177 yr comment_535896 No Cliff....shaved .080, but the valves are .080 taller, so when you shim up the towers and springs, everything comes up as stock. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535896 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 27, 20177 yr comment_535974 15 hours ago, Diseazd said: No Cliff....shaved .080, but the valves are .080 taller, so when you shim up the towers and springs, everything comes up as stock. Wishful thinking, but hopefully they won't be too far off.  Are you the Doctor, maybe his PA?    Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-535974 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 28, 20177 yr Author comment_536113 Guys, I need your advice again. I bought a remanufactured 1982 ZX distributor. As I was curios about the actual implemented advance curves I asked Cardone tech support. They replied:Â Quote "Part # 31-619 Mechanical Advance is 6 to 12 degrees and the Vacuum Advance is 7 to 15 degrees." What do you think? Someone here wrote a gread excel sheet, however, this setup is not listed. What do you think? To much? Too less? Plus I really don't understand what they mean by "7 TO 15 deg".. is it 7 or 15 full vacuum advance? Edited November 28, 20177 yr by german240 Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-536113 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 28, 20177 yr comment_536115 You need to know if those numbers at the distributor or at the crankshaft. And if those are a range of possible maximum advances or some other type of number. Overall, the information is not really worth much. It's undefined. It's easy to determine those two things, on the engine, though, with a timing light. Best just install and check. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-536115 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 28, 20177 yr Author comment_536117 That's what I thought. Thank you! I asked the same question a few months ago (cardone tech support), received a similar answer, asked back but no further explanations up to now. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-536117 Share on other sites More sharing options...
November 28, 20177 yr comment_536120 I was thinking the later zxs have the e12-93 electronic ignition?  They have two connections on the black box,  one on top and one on the side.  I think the second is for a sensor on the crank. Can you use those on our cars or is it only the single connection e12-80? Another thing, the vacuum advance weights have the weight stamped in them, mine are 8.5 I think, '79zx.  The way I was thinking is total advance at 2,500 or 3,000 rpm is double the weight number.  Mine is set @ 34 on total and 17 at idle if I remember right.  Mine likes the higher degree, i think it's maxed out on the adjustment plate. Just some memories from when I built my 2.4.  Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56751-l28-stroker-build-i-need-your-advice/?&page=7#findComment-536120 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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