@siteunseen it is the e12-80 dizzy with only the top "T" connector (I posted some pictures on page 3). The intersting thing is , that all ZX dizzys remanufactured by cardone have the same advance curve implemented. It doesn't matter which year you choose, you'll always end up with the same cardone parts number.

5 hours ago, german240 said:

@siteunseen it is the e12-80 dizzy with only the top "T" connector (I posted some pictures on page 3). The intersting thing is , that all ZX dizzys remanufactured by cardone have the same advance curve implemented. It doesn't matter which year you choose, you'll always end up with the same cardone parts number.

I did not know that, thank you.  Here's what I bought from amazon.com,  https://www.amazon.com/Cardone-31-619-Remanufactured-Import-Distributor/dp/B000C46L52

So the numbers stamped in the dizzy body mean nothing?  I ordered a '79 model and the numbers matched the '79 on the Excel spreadsheet.  Oh well, it runs good to me so I'm not disappointed.

Thanks for all the information you've provided in your post. 

Cliff

No, the numbers stamped on the body don't mean anything. Otherwise there had to be different cardone part numbers. However, I think I was wrong as I ordered a '79 dizzy, too!

BTW your linked dizzy from Amazon has the part number 31-619, too. But if it works for your application it should work in mine, too

Did you add the plastic collar to the lower end of the dizzy? I think it isn't really needed, is it?

Edited November 29, 20177 yr by german240

I think it has the plastic piece at the bottom.  I have a bunch of spare parts so if it didn't come with the reman I robbed another distributor.  Does it not serve as a bushing in the spindle hole?

I'm sure you know this but I'll say it because I didn't.   You need a ZX cap and rotor button, they're bigger.  I installed mine one Saturday morning and had to rush to the local import parts house before noon and get both.

I think that the plastic piece is an alignment bushing.  Keeps the tang centered in the slot, keeping the two shafts on the same center.  I'd use it.  They're steel on the 280Z distributors.

Even if you find a chart that says what the advance numbers should be, I'd still verify with a timing light.  Who knows what goes on in those reman shops over in Asia.  The numbers stamped on the weights are a good clue but the springs and slots come in to play also.  The advances are probably set on the conservative side so that people don't blow up their engines with their new reman distributors.  But, they could also be set sloppily by just throwing parts together (sorry if you got one,  you can always modify!).  Which might be why the range is so wide in the numbers that were quoted from Cardone.  They don't really know.

 

On 29.11.2017 at 8:28 PM, siteunseen said:

 

I'm sure you know this but I'll say it because I didn't.   You need a ZX cap and rotor button, they're bigger.  I installed mine one Saturday morning and had to rush to the local import parts house before noon and get both.

Thanks for pointing this out. But I already got the correct base & adjusting plate as well as the cap and rotor

@Zed Head You're right! Unbelievable, I got a new email from Cardone tech support: 

 

Quote

Yes that will be in degrees and it can fall between 7-15 degrees  vacuum & 6-12 degrees for mechanical

First of all, I think he doesn't get the difference between cam and crank degrees (I asked for it). But the main info is: You can get anything! Now I have to open up my brand new dizzy..I don't like that. 

Edited November 30, 20177 yr by german240

So, I ordered from RockAuto on Sunday. On wednesday (2 days later) it arrived at my door in Germany! Unbelievable. Beck/Arnley timing chain kit, looks great and is all made in Japan. 

 

TDC tool

 

Tightening everything accoring to FSM

Checking cam timing

So I checked everything over and over again.. and the cam is quite different than advertised. I asked Jon from Delta cams, he told me that everything is fine, my measurements are accurate, his cam card only shows calculated numbers. I'm not sure what to do now. 

 

So the red numbers are according to the cam sheet. The green numbers are the actual measured ones. 

 

Sprocket position 1. Head was shaved by 0.012", head gasket is 0,0787" (so this almost results in a stock cam-crank distance).

 

Edited December 2, 20177 yr by german240

Looks like all of your numbers are early, which could be due to your new chain and sprocket.  I can't really wrap my head around the duration calculation but that would be determined by the cam profile.  Maybe you could calculate that to see what it comes out to.

Total lift would be a specific number that should match also.

You'd have to know what the shop's tolerances were to know if it's "fine" by their standards.  +/- how many degrees is "okay".  Maybe they have wide specs.

I just calculated all events at 0.05" lift: 
Intake Duration is 236.00 degrees. 
Exhaust Duration is 232.00 degrees.
Installed Intake Centerline is 107.00 degrees ATDC.
Installed Exhaust Centerline is 110.00 degrees BTDC.
LSA is 108.5 degrees
Overlap is 17.00 degrees.

 

Did they specify what valve lash to check numbers at? Some cam cards specify numbers at 0 lash

Never mind - I see it on the card. 

15 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Looks like all of your numbers are early, which could be due to your new chain and sprocket. 

Put it on hole #3.