I would go a minimum of 480 lift. These motors love bigger cams. You won't loose any drivability either. I run 290/490 in my little 2.4 and it will put put around at 1500 rpm or rev to 7000+ 

when you talk about using a n42- is that with no combustion chamber alterations?

Does Eiji not weld any on the chambers ?

German240.....I'm using a Stage III Isky.......490 lift....290 degree duration. I agree with others....more lift is a good thing....more duration equals less ping. Eiji uses a more radical cam, not sure what his specs are.....Madkaw....yes, he welds and reshapes his heads to be more heart shaped, but if you have a budget, you can quickly get costs out of hand.

Edited December 31, 20168 yr by Diseazd

The reason I bring it up about the n42 is to make sure folks are comparing apples to apples. " I use a N42 just like Eiji " - but it's not. Welding and re shaped chambers is a whole different head that can handle higher CR with less timing .


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10 hours ago, german240 said:

 

Maybe I could really go for 10.3 static compression. What cam are you using? BTW what is the advantage of a MSD box additionally to the ZX dizzy?

Basically a msd box gives you a better/stronger/more stable spark.

I have what The zstore calls their Stage 3 cam.

In my opinion a good street performance cam, Not to small and not to big, power is good all the way and falls off at about 6400 rpms. 

The MSD and the ZX are probably about the same at higher RPM, like 3000 and above.  The MSD's multiple sparks can help at idle and low RPM, especially with an engine designed for high RPM power.

Some pics I took of Eiji's stroker......crank fire ignition.

I've had several L-series engines ranging from a 2.4up to the present 3.2L running on 114 octane with a CR of 13.7:1 and think that anything over 2.9 needs more air then a stock set of SUs can deliver. Bored out for a 2.9 or 3.0 the SUs are fine but over that 40mm and up to 50mm are more in line.

As to the use of the F54 block, you might find it interesting to note that Rebello got around to actually measuring the amount of wall material in 280Z and  280ZX blocks and found that if you want to go to big you don't want the F54 block for an NA application.

On 1.1.2017 at 0:55 AM, madkaw said:

The reason I bring it up about the n42 is to make sure folks are comparing apples to apples. " I use a N42 just like Eiji " - but it's not. Welding and re shaped chambers is a whole different head that can handle higher CR with less timing .

That's what I heard, too. Thanks for pointing that out! 

On 2.1.2017 at 2:52 AM, gnosez said:

I've had several L-series engines ranging from a 2.4up to the present 3.2L running on 114 octane with a CR of 13.7:1 and think that anything over 2.9 needs more air then a stock set of SUs can deliver. Bored out for a 2.9 or 3.0 the SUs are fine but over that 40mm and up to 50mm are more in line.

As to the use of the F54 block, you might find it interesting to note that Rebello got around to actually measuring the amount of wall material in 280Z and  280ZX blocks and found that if you want to go to big you don't want the F54 block for an NA application.

You might be right about the SU's. Eventually, I am going to upgrade to Weber DCOE's (45). However, as I'm tight on budget, I'll be using the SU's for the first year or so. Do you think the mechanical fuel pump will work with a stroker setup? I don't like the idea of having an extra safety switch, wiring harness etc. for the electrical fuel pump. 

I think there is a lot of conflicting info about the ideal block. Several webpages state that the F54 is the best block. Nonetheless, there are a few sources which agree that the N42 is the better block due to thicker walls. I have to use what I got, so it is the F54. 

The difference between static and dynamic compression is clear, it all depends on the valve timing. I just thought you might have some experiences which combinations  (cam+CR) could work - that's why I asked. Another open topic is: Will a thicker HG advance my cam timing noticeably? In other words: Should I get a fully adjustable cam sprocket? 

 

--I also sent an email to Dave Rebello, but no answer so far. 

Thank you all! 

Edited January 3, 20178 yr by german240

Damn- hate all this talk about strokers, I want to start on mine!!


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2 hours ago, german240 said:

That's what I heard, too. Thanks for pointing that out! 

You might be right about the SU's. Eventually, I am going to upgrade to Weber DCOE's (45). However, as I'm tight on budget, I'll be using the SU's for the first year or so. Do you think the mechanical fuel pump will work with a stroker setup? I don't like the idea of having an extra safety switch, wiring harness etc. for the electrical fuel pump. 

I think there is a lot of conflicting info about the ideal block. Several webpages state that the F54 is the best block. Nonetheless, there are a few sources which agree that the N42 is the better block due to thicker walls. I have to use what I got, so it is the F54. 

The difference between static and dynamic compression is clear, it all depends on the valve timing. I just thought you might have some experiences which combinations  (cam+CR) could work - that's why I asked. Another open topic is: Will a thicker HG advance my cam timing noticeably? In other words: Should I get a fully adjustable cam sprocket? 

 

--I also sent an email to Dave Rebello, but no answer so far. 

Thank you all! 

Dave sometimes takes a few days to answer. Never failed to answer me within a week though...

I would recommend an electric fuel pump wired to a relay once you upgrade those carbs. Simple enough to do. If you're using rubber fuel lines spend a little more for EFI rubber. Total overkill but worth it.

The adjustable cam sprocket is nice but not necessary.

As to the block, the N42 has more meat but that doesn't make the F54 a bad choice, it just means that for the money I would stay away from a full on 3.2L motor. Of course you might say, but it's a street not a race car and yet once you feel the joy of that right foot you might just do it again and again til something breaks.

Why and what would break it?

Lack of fuel,  overheating, a mistake in the build (piston to wall gap, main not line bored, crank off, timing wrong), and that right foot.

On 4.1.2017 at 4:53 AM, gnosez said:

The adjustable cam sprocket is nice but not necessary.

The only issue that concerns me is, that I will have to use a 2.0mm or 2.5mm head gasket. Therefore, the valve timing will be advanced (I guess maybe 1-2°?). The stock sprocket only allows timing changes in 3° increments, doesn't it?

In other news I got forged H-beam conrods with ARP bolts. They save around 200g(!!) per conrod, means 1.2 Kg less total oscillating weight. The hone pattern and overall quality looks very nice.  I will have the tolerances double checked at a machining shop. 

My engine block, head, crank, intake and carbs are sent to an engine builder, too. It will be bored to 89mm (with torque plate). He can't sonic test it, though. 

I still haven't got an answer from Rebello. 

Edited January 12, 20178 yr by german240