On 9/29/2017 at 2:19 AM, moelk said:

In Europe (Lithuania) from Romas Tamulis.

If you are interested I'll get his contact info for you? 

 

Thanks,  yes,  I am interested in getting 1 or 2 of the badges.

  On 9/29/2017 at 2:28 PM, S30Driver said:

Thanks,  yes,  I am interested in getting 1 or 2 of the badges.

You can contact him on Facebook, Romas Tamulis or by email: Info@dogcustom-works.com

Tell him I sent you.

I drove the Z to work today in order to go to the Georgia Z Club meeting afterward. It was a great day to drive the car, too.

Here are the S30s that showed up.

Installed new left inner and outer tie rod ends. I don't think my rack has been greased in decades!

 

Adjusted valve lash, checked timing, vacuum test and checked compression before winter hibernation. Such a nice looking part of the engine, and strangely rewarding to work with.

 

 

 

 

Looking like a used car lot here. I'm pulling in the garage the parts car (white one) I bought for $600. Except for the dent above the rear wheel it's in much better condition than I originally thought. The original color was wine red metallic (at least that's what the engine bay and under carpets looks like) they painted over the paint sticker.

I'm going to start with draining all fluids (gas is nasty), and spend some quality time in my service manual learning about California emissions.

All three cars here are 1976, but my daily driver is a federal car: no EGR, catalytic converter, etc.


Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

That is awesome!

When I bought my car last year, the previous owner somehow managed to dent the rear passenger side by the side indicator light. Been bothering me all this time. So I finally drilled holes and put the slide hammer on it. Now its Bondo time. Its at one build up stage. Next to find some Nissan 307 Pacific Blue Metallic.

A stud welder works even better than a screw in puller. Harbor freight has them I believe...

Making some progress.

You really need access to the panel from the interior too. Your repair will last better if your filler is thinner. Hammer and dolly from the inside and outside to get it close. If the metal is stretched, heat it and cool it with a wet rag to shrink it...Close is 1/16th of an inch or less 1/8" absolute max...

Thanks..I lack the bodywork experience one would need to do this job, but I just dove in with a couple of Kirin Ichiban beers and am learning as I go. I appreciate the advice.