Fuel rail alternative on a 1973 240Z?

[nahurry]

Has anyone eliminated the stock metal fuel rail with a rubber one? If so any pics? My vapor locking issue is really annoying

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[siteunseen]

Here's the only guy I've read that has done it, no pictures though.  Maybe he'll see this and put one up, do you have one @Jeff G 78?

 

[Patcon]

Where in Simpsonville? If you need help or parts I'm in Spartanburg...

[Zed Head]

I think that there's a picture in jalex's thread.

[siteunseen]

17 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I think that there's a picture in jalex's thread.

I tried that first and realized that after someone mentioned AN fittings to Jalex Jeff bowed out, frustrated I'm sure.

Here's as close as we got,

[Jeff G 78]

Sorry, no pics handy and my Z isn't at my house.  I made the switch in the middle of the race with a few feet of spare fuel hose and some plastic T fittings.  It literally took me no more than two minutes to do the swap and get back on the track.  I later cleaned it up with proper length hoses and brass fittings, but it still isn't pretty.  I need to pull the engine this winter, so I'll tidy it up better, but it's a race car, so I'm not going for aesthetics.

Anybody can do the test in minutes and it's completely reversible.  You will need about three feet of 1/4" fuel hose, a 1/4x1/4x1/4 T fitting and about 8 hose clamps.  Simply pull the hose off the fuel feed pipe above the RH frame rail and replace it with a fuel hose long enough to reach the front carb but don't connect it yet.  Add a T fitting to the end and attach a short hose from the T to the front carb and another hose from the T to the rear carb.  Insert a small bolt into each of the end of the stock fuel lines.  You will need one for the fuel inlet hose you removed from the feed rail, and one for each of the hoses you removed from the carbs.  That's it.  Just make sure the new rubber hoses are not laying on anything hot or near the fan.

[nahurry]

I'm off Georgia road


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[nahurry]

I did this modification and sadly it hasn't changed the vapor lock issue.


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[Jeff G 78]

One extra bit of info, the fuel rail mod was not the first thing I tried.  I first changed over to an electric fuel pump, then I added insulation to the factory heat shield between the carb bowls and exhaust manifold, third, I propped the hood open a few inches (race car) and finally, I eliminated the steel rail and return line.  Each mod likely helped some and the rail was likely the most important, but possibly not enough as a stand-alone mod.  A vented hood would likely be a similar improvement in lue of the propped-open hood.

 

[SteveJ]

The problem is that the setup in the photo does not move the fuel rail from the heat source. I fabricated a new heat shield for my car and reduced the temperatures at the carburetors by about 100 degrees. I also added more insulation on the fuel rail. It reduced the heat on the fuel rail, but it didn't eliminate it. I plan on moving it closer to the carburetors so it is better protected by the heat shield.

[nahurry]

What type of insulation is best to use on the factory heat shield?


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[Jeff G 78]

I used a self-adhesive insulation with a foil layer.  It's about 1/4" thick and is very durable and sticky.  Not sure where to find it though.  I've had it for years.