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Deja Vu: 1971 Restoration


motorman7

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The honest answer is 'trial and error'.   The brake lines need to go in first and then the emergency brake parts since they are sandwiched between the differential and the floor pan/tunnel.   It is hard to access these with the diff in place.  The strut towers help to align the lower control arms.   I will install the diff with the lower mount and bracket pre-assembled and lift it into place using a scissors jack, after inserting the two studs on the diff into the mustache bar.  Then I will put in the diff strap.  Will put the diff strap brackets in before I put in the diff assembly.  Will do strap after diff is in.

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Got a lot of items installed tonight.  Yesterdays prep work was a big help.  Got the hand brake and linkage installed.  Also put in the diff strap brackets and hardware.  Then I lifted the differential assembly onto the mustache bar  using my handy scissors jack.  Then installed the bolts for the forward diff bracket.  Got the half shafts installed as well.  I threw the tires on just for safety.  Jack stands are great, but you never know.  (Side note: The red jack in the pics isn't touching anything on the underside.  It is there just in case.  Living in SoCal,  I always have this strange fear that we might have an earth quake so extra support is always welcomed)

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Looks fantastic!

Make sure you do your tightening of all the suspension bushings with the suspension loaded. I did my rear bushing tightening with the rear tires up on moving dollies. That allowed the rear wheels to squirm around into correct position while still allowing enough room underneath for me to get under there and work wrenches.

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Not knowing any better I reused the nuts after installing new poly/rubber combo. One of the TC rods fell out of the hole and was dragging on my driveway. Thank goodness I heard it and didn't get on the road. Also all the pieces were in my driveway so I put it back on then took the advice of Zkars and "double nutted" both sides. The OE nuts are one use type. You could also use nylon lock nuts.

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5 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Not knowing any better I reused the nuts after installing new poly/rubber combo. One of the TC rods fell out of the hole and was dragging on my driveway. Thank goodness I heard it and didn't get on the road. Also all the pieces were in my driveway so I put it back on then took the advice of Zkars and "double nutted" both sides. The OE nuts are one use type. You could also use nylon lock nuts.

yeah, the P.T. or Cone-lock nuts are deemed non-reversible, and thus non-reusable if removed... Jam-nuts or nylocks are a much better replacement.

 

Thouuuuuuuuuuuuugh I usually test the PT nuts for larger threads like that by using a stubby wrench. If it's very hard to turn with my palm as the only way to make use of what little leverage there is, I'll reuse them.

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On 9/27/2017 at 12:31 PM, Careless said:

regardless of bushing type, you should always do a bolt check after a few hundred miles. 
after installing poly bushings on the front and rear of my z31, the bolts definitely loosened up after a week of driving around.

Good words of advice.  I will have to monitor that.

Did some work on the rear brakes.  Got the passenger side drum brakes cleaned and installed.  Installed proportioning valve, splitter and a few break lines.  Camera pics are terrible and it is all lighting (or the camera, or the photographer) .  Will try and get some better pics in the daylight tomorrow.

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