Somethings wrong...

[Redwing]

On 1/30/2017 at 3:12 AM, JSM said:

So if it won't start now, have you checked for spark and fuel?  If a fuel pump fails, it could go slowly like your describing.  Check the very basics first. 

Sorry to ask, but your gas gauge works and you do have fuel in the car?  My wife called me one day after I had just replaced the battery and says it won't start. I get there and she has a business card over the gas gauge and the car was out.  I was not happy!

Sorry about your wife and no gas.  Yes the Guage works in RedBird, and she does have gas.  Good question tho, thanks.

[Redwing]

Just now, Dave WM said:

easy but messy. beside gas pouring all over you while you do it, sometimes the hoses can be hard and difficult to remove (leak yes remove not so easy).

Also its hard to get at them since the car is so low.

So best bet is let someone do it for you, the process is get the car jacked up at the rear, using whatever make you feel safe, and protect the car from clumsy jack points. After you get some working room, remove and discard those hose clamps, use a utilty knife to slice hose (not finger) lengthwise along the connection to the tank, this will allow the hose to be removed without undo stress to the tank. then new hoses, with good fuel clamp, I prefer the stock kind or fuel injector kind, any thing that does not chew into the hose.

Its not hard but for the access and mess. I have a new lines on hand and ready to install quickly to minimize the mess. Have some rags handy and a fire extinguisher near by.

Will doing this with a tank nearly out of gas be of help?  Nope, not a job for me personally, thanks.

Another question....

To do a full tune up, do the spark plug wires get replaced?  The ones in her have not been there that long.   I have on hand a new oil filter and fuel filter.  So I need plugs, rotor and dist. cap?  Anything else, besides oil natch?  When looking in engine bay yesterday, the air filter was checked.  It did not look anywhere near bad, just a little dust on parts of it.  Would this need to be replaced too?  Trying to figure the finances of this event.

Thanks all...

Ja

 

[Reptoid Overlords]

Perhaps one thing to look into is a pair of ramps. Maybe they will rub the front of the car but the rear might have enough clearance to back up onto them since you don't need the wheels off.

Sent from my N9130 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

[gwri8]

From Autozone:

NGK copper plugs  2.19 ea X 6 = 13.00

Dist cap                                         15.00

Rotor                                               5.29

Plug wires:  Duralast-23.00  NGK-50.00

The dist cap and plug wires can be much cheaper at Rockauto.com

[Dave WM]

Wires will be fine, same with rotor cap, those last a very long time. I am sure the problems the plugs, how they got that way and how long it took is the issue.

I check wires by looking at them with the engine running at night, look for arcing to the engine. If they don't do that AND if the look in good shape then the are prob fine.

inspecting the rotor cover is easy look for carbon tracks and crack if none, its ok.

Diagnosing the issue is the way to determine what needs to be fixed or replaced. No points on the electronic ign, should be ok unless you are getting a weak spark, which is easy to test (look at spark while cranking is it strong?) so if that is good then move on to mixture issue (if dry fouled). New plugs and a quick reading will confirm dry foul or oil fouled. If dry fouled and ign ruled out then its a mixture issue (assuming air filer is good) next up would be to find out why mixture is out. Could be a leaking CSV, fuel pressure, injector or a temp sensor, TPS, ECU or wiring.

if oil fouled could be oil control rings, valve oil seals, valve guides.

What you don't want to do is start replacing stuff hoping to find the issue. Replacing stuff just add variables that have to be considered (was the replacement done right). saw the post above, if you want to replace to be sure, that is ok since $ is so low, just not how I do it. when I say look in good shape that is a subjective term, if you don't have a lot of exp with evaluating then its prob safer to replace, but after replacing I would expect them to last for at least a few years.

 

 

 

 

Edited January 31, 2017 by Dave WM

[Redwing]

On 1/18/2017 at 1:32 AM, 240260280 said:

I wonder if the distributor or ignition system has a fault? Spark scatter at high Rpm, spark scatter causing pre-ignition under load,   and intermittent cut out of ignition?

 

Sorry I did not respond to your suggestion.  Please tell me more about spark scatter, and what to do.

Thank you,

Jai

[Redwing]

On 1/18/2017 at 2:42 PM, Dave WM said:

second the temp sensor, need to check the resistance AT the 35 pin plug for the ambient temps.

 Lastly a check of the cold start valve.

1st thing to do would be a pressure test of the fuel.

All the above assumes you are having fuel mixture issues based on the plug observations. New plugs will help with the diagnosis since if they quickly foul again then is almost for sure a mixture issue and not an ignition issue.

 

Dave,

Sorry about not answering your points earlier.  

The temp sensor, how does one do that?  With a meter or something?  Temp sensor, temp sender & connector, all replaced 8/29/15.

Cold start valve,  unplugged the connector, was done on 8/15/15.

Do you mean pressure test the fuel lines?  Not sure if done, no notes on that.

Thank you,

Jau

[Redwing]

Just now, Reptoid Overlords said:

Perhaps one thing to look into is a pair of ramps. Maybe they will rub the front of the car but the rear might have enough clearance to back up onto them since you don't need the wheels off.

Sent from my N9130 using Classic Zcar Club mobile
 

 

Thank you.  My son has a set of ramps.  Will use them.

[Dave WM]

with that history I doubt any of that is it issue. New plugs will resolve the running issue, just need to check them after a few hours and make sure nothing drastic. It could be a simple a how you drive the car. If you do lots of slow speed low rpm loafing the plugs may just be fouling due to that.

[Dave WM]

use extreme care with ramps. I always have a backup like a spare tire or large blocks of wood under the body/frame just in case there is an issue with ramps. make sure car is chocked so it can roll if you are using on the back.

[Redwing]

Just now, Dave WM said:

with that history I doubt any of that is it issue. New plugs will resolve the running issue, just need to check them after a few hours and make sure nothing drastic. It could be a simple a how you drive the car. If you do lots of slow speed low rpm loafing the plugs may just be fouling due to that.

I am aware she needs more than loafing driving.  Just lately with the rumbling etc, I have driven without much speed.  That made the rumbling worse.

Thank you.

BTW...  Deanna likely had an  old dog vestibular disease incident.  She is improving daily without vet intervention.  Yay.

(Acute inflammation of vestibular nerve, what helps all to stay balanced.  Typically resolves with sudden inprovement.)

Edited January 31, 2017 by Redwing
forgot

[240260280]

Redwing,

 

Have a peek at this electrical connection near the front of the engine on the drivers side just behind the top of the fan. It may just be loose where it connects to the thermostat housing sensor.  Coming loose  or simply corrosion on the connectors is the usual suspect when 280z's run rich.

The pigtail also has bullet connectors at the other end that can corrode or come loose but problems with the bullet connectors are less common. It would be good practice for you or your neighbour to check these connections.

 

For your fouled plugs, either replace or clean really well with carb cleaner and a brush. Be sure to clean deep down in the space between the ceramic insulator and the metal body.