Somethings wrong...

[SteveJ]

11 minutes ago, 240260280 said:

Redwing,

 

Have a peek at this electrical connection near the front of the engine on the drivers side just behind the top of the fan. It may just be loose where it connects to the thermostat housing sensor.  Coming loose  or simply corrosion on the connectors is the usual suspect when 280z's run rich.

The pigtail also has bullet connectors at the other end that can corrode or come loose but problems with the bullet connectors are less common. It would be good practice for you or your neighbour to check these connections.

 

For your fouled plugs, either replace or clean really well with carb cleaner and a brush. Be sure to clean deep down in the space between the ceramic insulator and the metal body.

 

 

 

 

 

We replaced the connectors in 2015, though a crimp could have worked loose.

[Redwing]

Super news my friends!!!  My neighbor Michael volunteered to replace the gas lines.  He has a fire extinguisher too!  My son is going to replace the spark plugs, and one of them , or I, will do the rotor.  It was decided that it was needed too, right?  So on Friday (Hooray for social security day!) I will go to Auto Zone and get the oil, the rotor, the plugs and the hoses.  Oh, need to get new clamps too.  Wonder where I can get the right ones quickly?  Thinking aloud.   Not sure Auto Zone will have the ones I need.  I'll  have to check Amazon, get here in 2 days if they do.

Tell me guys, the size of the hoses needed.  

And thanks to all of you, for each suggestion given.   You're  the best!  

Jai

 

[Redwing]

Please...

What size of fuel hoses and clamps do I need???  My FSM  has disappeared here, hiding somewhere unknown.  Aghhh...

Thanks guys,

Jai

[siteunseen]

Autozone should have the hose and clamps, if you're talking about the fuel injection hose, Advance has them.  5/16" High Pressure Fuel Injection Hose and packs of high pressure hose clamps.

[Redwing]

Have you been following?  The 2 hoses connected to the nipples on the gas tank are the ones I need to replace.  Just need to confirm if you are talking about these same ones.

Thanks bunches!

Jai

[SteveJ]

Jai,

Also consider getting a gasket for the drain plug if you drain the tank that way. I didn't replace it when I drained your tank previously because I didn't have one handy. Perhaps someone on this thread can tell you the right size for the gasket, since I can't remember for the life of me. 

[siteunseen]

On 2/1/2017 at 9:56 AM, Redwing said:

Have you been following?  The 2 hoses connected to the nipples on the gas tank are the ones I need to replace.  Just need to confirm if you are talking about these same ones.

Thanks bunches!

Jai

Sorry, I am talking about after the fuel pump for the "high pressure (high dollar) hose".  Coming out of the tank is 3/8".  If you are going to drain the tank this is a "must read".  http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

In this pic you can see a lot:

• Metal sheet that protects the gas lines from road debris
• Fuel hose to motor via Fram filter
• Disolved hose particles in Fram G3 filter
• 10mm or 3/8" fuel hose
• Fuel return line
• Vent Hose to carbon canister and backflow valve
• passenger side fuel tank strap with 14mm nut

[Redwing]

Just now, siteunseen said:

Sorry, I am talking about after the fuel pump for the "high pressure (high dollar) hose".  Coming out of the tank is 3/8".  If you are going to drain the tank this is a "must read".  http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm

In this pic you can see a lot:

• Metal sheet that protects the gas lines from road debris
• Fuel hose to motor via Fram filter
• Disolved hose particles in Fram G3 filter
• 10mm or 3/8" fuel hose
• Fuel return line
• Vent Hose to carbon canister and backflow valve
• passenger side fuel tank strap with 14mm nut

Thank you Site.  I would guess that Auto Zone will have reference to the length.  I'll  be getting them tomorrow, and Michael will put them on soon.  We haven't  set a date for when yet.  Thanks for all the help.

Jai 

[Chickenman]

Replacing the CTS ( Engine Temp to ECU )  has been mentioned several times by various member, but it's not 100% clear if a new one was ever installed???? 

Has the Coolant Temperature sensor ( two prong ) ever been measured with an Ohm meter or better yet replaced. Bear in mind that the resistance varies with heat. so just checking resistance at ambient temperature may not be adequate. The two tiny prongs are hard to clean. Use a good quality electrical cleaner such as Dioxit ( Spray type ) or Weicon Electrical. Contact spray. The Weicon product ( made in Germany )  is fantastic. Spray it on old corroded contacts and 10 minutes later they look like new.  I notice that you mentioned that you cleaned the bullet connections, but what about the connections at the actual CTS?  Or was that the TCS you mentioned? 

Quote

Checked TCS cleaned contacts, found AFM broken

Have you checked the spark quality yet? That should be at the top of your list. Your plugs are horribly fouled. Weak spark will do that... as well as a dozen other things, but you have to have good spark quality as a baseline. 

Edit: I just noticed that the new plugs you installed are the wrong Part number. You Installed BPR5EY-11. Those are 1.1mm or .042" pre-gapped plugs . Those are not correct for a  1975 or 1976 280Z . You should be using a BPR5EY or BPR6EY plug. No suffix ( 11 )  on the end. That is a regular .8 mm or .031" gapped plug. ..031 to .035" is the FSM recommended gap for the 75 and 76 models. You woud gap new plugs to the lessor figure. The weaker Trignition in these units requires the smaller gapped plug. 

Not worried about heat range difference. I understand why you installed the 5 heat range. Those are the optional Hotter plugs by NGK. That's OK for now, you don't drive the car much. And 6's would foul even worse.

Just a note on NGK plug numbers. BPR5EY.  The P  stands for projected tip. R for resistor plug. Y for V gap electrode. These revisions are are all good for producing better spark quality. Resistor plugs actually produce a stronger spark than non-resistor plug. ( Can be explained later. Techno mumbo jumbo ) 

Edited February 3, 2017 by Chickenman

[Zed Head]

I think that several guys from CZCC were out there a while ago and ran through the EFI tests at the ECU connector.  That's the place to start, the ECU connector, I'd say.  Then dig deeper if the numbers are off.  

Still, Jai said that she never changed the plugs after the ECU replacement.  So the earlier suggestion of a complete tune-up before getting carried away still seems reasonable.

[Chickenman]

^ Uhh.. that would make sense. I've been sick as a Dog with the Flu for the last month, so I missed a lot of posts.   Just saw Jai's post on January 19th where she listed what was done in Chronological order. 

[Redwing]

On 2/4/2017 at 6:09 AM, Chickenman said:

^ Uhh.. that would make sense. I've been sick as a Dog with the Flu for the last month, so I missed a lot of posts.   Just saw Jai's post on January 19th where she listed what was done in Chronological order. 

Aghhhh..... that's the pits being sick that long.  Hope you are feeling better and improve more each day.

Michael is coming over today to repair the gas leak.  I got the hose and clamps.  Also got the spark plugs, NGK BPR5EY.  I had to educate the guy at Auto Zone.  He probably brought out 4 different sets before he found the ones I requested.  Ha!  Maybe Michael will have enough time to put them in today, as my son is sick and cannot do it as he said he would.  

Will let you all know how things are improving with RedBird.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Jai