Somethings wrong...

[Redwing]

On 2/1/2017 at 4:46 PM, SteveJ said:

Jai,

Also consider getting a gasket for the drain plug if you drain the tank that way. I didn't replace it when I drained your tank previously because I didn't have one handy. Perhaps someone on this thread can tell you the right size for the gasket, since I can't remember for the life of me. 

Hi Steve,

I found the drain plug size, it is a 12 mm plug.  When reading in the url for atlanticz regarding gas tank removal that Site sent, it was right there.

Thank you Site!

Jai

[SteveJ]

Now it rings a bell. You'll probably need a 1/2" gasket. I seem to recall that is the size I needed. The extra 0.52 mm clearance is needed to get past the threads easily.

[Redwing]

Hi friends,

The gas lines are replaced!  Good timing too, the gas leak had gotten worse with Redbird sitting immobile since parked, after being towed home.  It was now visibly dripping.  Glad I had not driven her when she did start, while waiting for the lines to be replaced.  Phew!

Michael worked his magic last night, and they're done.  Forgot, the new clamps that were suggested - 1/2" X 9/16" - were too small.  They would not go on, could not be used.  So Michael had to replace the old ones.  So if you all do this job, use the slightly larger clamps.

But it was late and he didn't get to the spark plugs.  So I'm hoping my son will get well soon and do them, open and pull the ECU to check the connectors plus Deoxit them, (my body will not contort into that position) and replace the fuel filter too.

In the meantime, I'll be checking the places pointed out to me, to make sure connections are secure, using Deoxit on all.

Next is changing the oil.  That's all folks,  stay tuned!

 Jai

Edited February 7, 2017 by Redwing
forgot

[Dave WM]

I applaud you getting it all done, just one thing. Try it between each thing, try after plugs then try again after ECU clean, again after any other corrective actions.

The idea is not to create a new problem, not likely but possible. so if the plugs get it working, then do the ECU, should still work, etc...

Also assuming you get it going, check the plugs again after say 20-30 miles on it. You want to see if the fouling is due to a chronic long term slightly rich OR something drastic that will cause issues quickly. If the latter then you know you still have problem, the former, just keep in mind to check plugs maybe after 1 year as it may not be a problem at all.

[Redwing]

17 hours ago, SteveJ said:

Now it rings a bell. You'll probably need a 1/2" gasket. I seem to recall that is the size I needed. The extra 0.52 mm clearance is needed to get past the threads easily.

I have been looking online, just to check prices (for many things), and the fuel drain gasket comes in several types.  What type did you get for your Z?   Nylon, rubber, synthetic, etc?  I had no idea there would be choices.  I thought it would be good to get one to have on hand.  

I did find NGK spark plug wires to fit my RB, for $28 on Amazon.

Thanks,

Jai 

Edited February 8, 2017 by Redwing
forgot

[SteveJ]

I believe I bought an assortment like this: http://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug-gasket/needa-parts-oil-drain-plug-gasket/257222_0_0

I'll be working on the car over the next few days. I'll see if I can tell which type I used.

 

[gwri8]

Ok, so I found some time to go check on Redbird with limited tools.  Jai had purchased new plugs and I replaced them, They were very much in need. I visually checked all the connections to the switches and they were all good. Checked the ECU connections, all good. Everything still had dielectric grease that SteveJ had put on. I replaced a couple of fuel intake hoses at the fuel filter that were a little cracked.  Also, I replaced the Fuel Filter and rotor button that Jai had purchased. I did not replace the Distributer cap, mainly because we didn't have a new one, but I did scrape the contact points.  When prowling around I noticed the BCDD wire was disconnected and reconnected it to the harness. We started it up and purred like a kitten, nice and smooth.  

Next we took it down the road about 3 miles so we could hear the roaring Jai had mentioned.  It's the clutch slipping, plain and simple. I could give it some throttle at shift and could just feel it.  You hear the Engine rev but the scenery doesn't go by any faster. That's a really expensive thing for Jai and It's slipping bad enough to be a high priority.  Unfortunately I don't have the capability to do that for her.

Now, here is the other issue,  We dove it to the gas station to put in some gas.  Everything is running fine except for the clutch.  When leaving the gas station to push it a little harder, maybe 500ft away, about 2500-3000 rpm (no tach), it just shut down. We pulled over and tried to restart but no luck.  Her Fuel pressure gauge was reading about 15 PSI. Even when trying to start .  When it runs, it stays around 30 PSI.  We let it sit for a little while I was trying to think. I could hear the fuel pump and all the fuel lines were good. It was getting spark. I didn't check the air filter, but it seemed to be ok.  I was starting to think it was temp related because that is right about the time when the temp gauge got to to operating temperature.  It did not overheat.  After cooling down a little it started right up, back to 30 PSI.   

It was getting dark.  We started back on the road approaching a red light.  The engine didn't shut down but I thought it wise to let it cool a little longer before stopping in traffic.  It was one of those moments when I knew I didn't want to get stuck at a red light and decided pull into before said gas station with the clutch slipping (badly) and all of a sudden the horn pad falls into my lap all while thinking about the engine temp.  I had a little sensory overload.  We made it safely to a parking spot and let it cool a little longer and an underwear check.  Anybody have a spare horn pad spring so that does happen again?  She's missing that piece.

We made it back to Jai's house (3-4 miles) at dark.  Anyone have Ideas, the water temp sender and sensors were replaced a little over a year ago, but not the thermotime switch.  The previous problem with Redbird shutting down (10-11/15?) wound up being bad gas with water in it.

[siteunseen]

Clamp off the return line a little bit more at a time. Adjust the clutch pedal, it worked for me on my 240.  It slipped so bad I could hardly back up the driveway then after adjusting I could chirp the tires. It's measurements are in the FSM.

[Zed Head]

1 hour ago, gwri8 said:

 Her Fuel pressure gauge was reading about 15 PSI. Even when trying to start .  When it runs, it stays around 30 PSI.  

We let it sit for a little while I was trying to think. I could hear the fuel pump and all the fuel lines were good

 The previous problem with Redbird shutting down (10-11/15?) wound up being bad gas with water in it.

That's some good observing.  Reminds me of a problem I had with my fuel pump relay, where it would not power the pump when I tried to start it.  Luckily for me I have a relay bypass switch to run the pump.  I posted on it in the past and even took a picture of the solenoid coils.  CO said they looked burnt.  In 76 the pump relay is combined with the EFI relay.

You said though, that you could hear the pump running.  So, that doesn't really fit with bad power to the pump.  Seems more like a floater in the tank, clogging the inlet.

Didn't' know that water in the gas was part of the original problem.  Maybe she does have some little vandals in the neighborhood.  Might be worth time to drain the tank and check.  I remember her quest for a locking cap.

[siteunseen]

10 or 12 feet of speaker wire with alligator clips makes a good fuel pump straight wire. Get some clips off an old battery charger for the other end.  I use mine when my gal friends want to get spanky/sparky.

[SteveJ]

If there is an issue with the fuel pump relay, the good news is that replacements are readily available. Just search for Volkswagen Bosch fuel pump relay. Nissan licensed the Bosch system. The bad news is that it's still $60+ for the relay.

[Redwing]

Hi all,

I received the distributor cap today.  Visually it  looks too little, even tho I got it from a site that had me put my car info in to tell me if it was a correct fit.  Ordered it because it was a match.  Have not gone out and compared it side by side yet.  If the distributor cap is what is needed would that cause the problem of stalling the way Greg wrote about?  Or will that fix it?

I need to figure this problem out soon.  My son has been letting me drive his work SUV.  Talk about strange, it is like driving a big bus or RV.   And now he is questioning at what stage the repairs are for RB.  Which feels like he is going to want the SUV back.  I'm sure he needs it.  

Soooo, after I replace the dist. cap, drive her to check, if she fails what would be the recommendation of my next move?   Just trying to get ahead on where to go next if she won't stay running.  

Thanks for everything,

Jai

Edited February 18, 2017 by Redwing