Somethings wrong...

[SteveJ]

8 hours ago, Patcon said:

No worries Cliff

I have a diesel F250 and it wouldn't charge. Auto parts store checked and alternator showed bad. Changed it still no charge. Changed it again still shows bad alternator. 3 bad ones in a row seems really unlikely. Took it to a local auto electric shop. Turns out there was a bad connection to the bottom of the battery post from the alternator. Had arced enough to prevent charging. Wasn't visible from the top

I also have seen the opposite. The battery was discharging on a friend's car, and the alternator "tested good". I said F the test results. We replaced the alternator (internally regulated), and the problem was gone. Apparently the testing apparatus did not properly check for a bad voltage regulator.

[Zed Head]

I suggested the alternator because of the dash lights going from bright to dim constantly (post 172).  I had a car that did that with a bad alternator, at idle.  I only noticed it at home when my headlights were shining on the garage door.  I forgot that she had a 76 with an external regulator so didn't mention it.  And with the internal regulators most of us just think of the whole thing as an alternator (which is really an odd name for it anyway - we need an alternative).  It might be some other flasher related thing.  Maybe the hazard switch?  Not sure how, just thinking outside the alternator.  If it's reproducible, Jai could run on battery power alone and see if it goes away, as a test.

The parts store guys are only trained in finding the right plug, attaching the belt, pushing the button, and reading the result.  Sometimes it's just a green light (good) or a red light (bad).  Finding the right plug is the hardest part of the process, from what I've seen.

[gwri8]

I lost internet last evening from a nearby lightning strike and just got it back this morning.  

To add more information to the existing problem, I did check the battery terminals and they were good. Her battery is relatively new.  I also checked the Fusible links and they were good also.  All of the lights did come on but I didn't check to see if they pulsed with the RPM's. It was getting late.  However, when I checked the turn signals, they did not work.  Jai said they had stopped working before.  Probably need to clean/rebuild that and check the headlight switch also.

When I mentioned the bad battery to body ground, that is exactly what it is, a straight wire from the neg terminal to to body. Definitely not an original configuration.  I only noticed that difference after I got home checked mine.  Mine comes out of the harness.

I did order a VR from Rockauto for RB. Thanks for the heads up Steve.  Since I can't go out there all the time I figure for 12.50 It's worth a shot and I can always have a spare if that is not the culprit.

There are still a lot of little things that her car could use, like the horns don't work, her stereo needs to be replaced with one she already has. Needs new shifter bushings. The center console got abused by the AC guy and is cracked in few places.  The turn signals, The tach and the dome light.  Those are just the ones I know about.

[SteveJ]

Jai might just have to get the alternator/VR fixed then come over to my house to get the other things worked on. I can cover a lot more ground at my place with all my tools available.

[siteunseen]

When my battery is low my blinkers won't blink, they light up but stay solid.  After an overnight 2 amp charge they're fine. 

[gwri8]

Whilst working on my car today I had an epiphany (or maybe I brain farted yesterday) when I noticed the back of my Alt.  There is a solenoid? on the back of the alternator on Jai's car and it is disconnected.  The wire is broken from the unit.  I saw it and questioned it but have no excuse for not figuring it out right then.  That is probably the problem.  The question is:   Is that part available separately from the alternator or does it come only with the purchase of a new/rebuilt one?  I called autozone and looked online but didn't see that part identified.  Nor did I see it attached to the catalog pics of the alternators.  Autozone has a 60 amp Alt for $31 and can get it in one day.  I'm just trying to save Jai some money if I could find it separately.

edit: added picture of my alt.

Edited April 30, 2017 by gwri8

[Zed Head]

I think that you meant condenser or capacitor.  It's there to suppress radio (electromagnetic) noise but if the positive wire touched ground it could have damaged internal components, I'd guess.  I think that they might be available at the parts store from one of the displays, not the behind the counter stock.

I reread your work in Post 172 and don't really see signs that anything is bad, the voltage readings are good.  The external regulators allow up to 15 volts.  But it's hard to tell sometimes with charging system problems.  I had one internally regulated alternator go bad in my car and the vvoltmeter showed everything was right, the voltage showed battery level when the engine was off, and proper charging and voltage limiting when it was on.  But the red light would glow brighter with RPM, like a little visual tachometer.  I decided that wasn't right and replaced it.

On my car that had the dim-then-bright headlights, there was no sign either.  No engine light or dying battery.  Just weird behavior.

[Redwing]

A FYI for you.  The alternator is purchased and happily riding in the back deck of RedBird.  I'm  anxious to see what electric things will get better by just having a fully working alternator in her.  I'm  planning to take a little trip to Franklin N.C. on the 12th.  This should be real fun.  Best with A/C tho.

Haven't spoken to Sam as he was very I'll so I left him alone for now.  But... my new A/C is not putting out cool air.  I turned the knob in the engine, switching it from heat to a/c.  Nada!  So, I don't know what to think.  Any ideas from you folks?  Could this have anything to do with the alternator not functioning correctly?  I'm  really showing my ignorance here.  I was told the alternator has a host of things in it's application.  I hoping that my electrical problems will all dissappear after it is installed.  Probably way too much to hope for tho.     Hah!

Later guys.  Add to this if you have ideas.  Thanks alot!

[Dave WM]

1st thing to check is to see if the compressor clutch it engaging when AC is on. You should be able to see/hear it with the hood up. the pulley will always be turning if the engine is running, but the compressor has a magnetic clutch that only allows the compressor to run when its engaged. so with the AC off, open the hood and start the car. locate the compressor, and note the sound (or lack of sound) from it. Now turn the ac on and look listen again, there should be notable sound from it as its working. You can also try feeling the hoses that come out of the firewall that hook up to the compressor and drier. One should be hot the other cold.

Knowing the compressor is engaging is the 1st thing to determine. From there the diagnosis can continue. If the clutch is not engaging then it could be an electrical problem in the switching OR if so equipped a low pressure sensor telling the compressor clutch not to engage due to a loss of Freon.

Remote diagnostic of mal functioning AC is not easy.

the best way would be to hook up gauges to the high and low side and see what's happening assuming the clutch is working.

 

 

Edited May 4, 2017 by Dave WM

[Redwing]

Just now, Dave WM said:

1st thing to check is to see if the compressor clutch it engaging...

Dave, 

Greg will be coming soon to put in the new alternator.  We will check your suggestion then.

Thank you for this information.  I just love it that everyone is so helpful with me in fixing the Redbird gremlins.   

Jai

[siteunseen]

My Dad spent $250 to find out the A/C switch on the control panel was bad, not allowing the compressor to engage.

I actually just got back from pulling one at a junkyard for him.  I got the whole panel for free, they are going to crush the car when the metal prices go up some anyway.  Fortunately the guy that took the dash apart to troubleshoot can now put it back together, not me. 

Edited May 4, 2017 by siteunseen

[Redwing]

Just now, siteunseen said:

My Dad spent $250 to find out the A/C switch on the control panel was bad, not allowing the compressor to engage.

I actually just got back from pulling one at a junkyard for him.  I got the whole panel for free, they are going to crush the car when the metal prices go up some anyway.  Fortunately the guy that took the dash apart to troubleshoot can now put it back together, not me. 

How did the control switch get checked to find that out?  That's a mystery to me.  Thank you for mentioning it, I would never thought to check that part. 

We are getting some terrific wind bursts today.  One  literally blew open my front door  (it has a faulty lock in it).  Still that was some wind to do that.  Hope you are not getting this bad weather that is charging across our 2 states.  Yeek!

Jai