I was thinking about freshening up the suspension!

[Zed Head]

The bushing choices are personal, I think.  It's really hard to compare road quality.  I probably drove on at least three different types of road just today.  They have new quiet pavement, that is smooth, old large stone filled concrete that's worn (very noisy), oiled gravel which is more noisy than new concrete.  And the recent snowstorms here have created 100's of small and large potholes.  The local highway that I use often has a definite transition from one type of pavement to another, where my opinion of my sound system quality goes from "sounds great, good enough" to "I need more watts, can't hear anything".

There's a whole thread here somewhere where we argue about which steering coupler to use.  It's that fine of a distinction.

[Carl Beck]

On January 23, 2017 at 8:24 PM, jlenownnab said:

Can I get a little help on what to do about radiator housing, starter, distributor base, etc?????? Can those parts be painted the same or do they need special paint or prep or what ever???? 

I'm not sure what you mean "radiator housing". The radiator is gloss back upper/lower tanks - no need for high temp. paint. The radiator core support is body color. You can wash, polish and wax the inner body panels. A good polish will remove most grim and oil stains if the engine compartment is in reasonable shape to begin with.

The distributor base is aluminum - you can clean it (a little carb cleaner) - and use something like CastBlast Dull Aluminum spray paint to maintain the factory look. Likewise the valve cover. If it is very stained it can be glass bead blasted (but you have to assure it is completely clean-out after). You can clean and repaint the engine block. High-Temp paint is only necessary on the exhaust manifold.. Eastwood sells a couple different special paints for exhaust manifolds and as I recall so does POR-15 - unlike the usually "hot rod" high temp - the Eastwood and POR offerings seem to stave off rust longer. 

Are you using Ospho or something like it - to treat small rust spots before painting etc.?

FWIW,

Carl B.

Edited January 25, 2017 by Carl Beck

[heyitsrama]

I had some really good luck with VHT sp127 for aluminum color, soda blasted a CB550 motor I picked up to rebuild, and repainted it with it. For prep I did:
Soda blast
Water wash
Acetone spray (bottle)
Primer
Heat (halogen lamps)
Paint
Heat (oven bake)

There was really not much paint particles from the paint in the oven, but I did it in my moms old oven before she tossed it out for a new one. I suspect that you could do it at home in the kitchen, just make sure the wife is at work.

Now what everyone wants... pictures.






I even painted my fan shroud I made the other day with the same paint.



It's pretty solid imo. As far as reducing "bling" I usually go for brushed aluminum.
This bike has accessories done in that style.

http://www.motomucci.com/2014/10/dreamone50-full-shoot-by-patrick-daly.html?m=1

[jlenownnab]

Carl and Heyitsrama thankyou for the detailed info, it's just what I was looking for. I have 1 spot under the brake power booster that has a little surface corrosion from a brake fluid leak, I will sand it down and treat it with something... I need to look in to Ospho. Nice work on the motor and the shroud, looks most professional.

Today was a new a day at the shop, I finished painting the driveshaft, half shafts and belly pan, all looks good. I wanted to start opening boxes and checking out a few things. First box opened Vogtland Springs, on the internet they are ruby/blood red, these are a purpleish pink color, not happy. I was reading a thread last night by Captain Obvious about rack and pinion Prothane bushings not fitting good. So I went straight to the box with them in it only to find out they sent me the wrong ones, so pissed. The drivers side needs reworked as expected but the passenger side is to narrow and loose. lastly, I started fitting a few bushings to see how they are going to look only to find out I wasn't supposed to remove the sleeves out of the Mustache Bar.  I guess reassembly of the rear won't be happening tomorrow!

[jlenownnab]

While the project has stalled due to my mistake, I was able to nab a 1979 zx for the 5spd trans. seems to go in all the gears easy. Car doesn't run, so fingers crossed. Craigslist comes through again!

[wheee!]

Grab the 15/16" master cylinder too! Not 100% sure but it might have some nice CV's on it too...

[jlenownnab]

Wheee! thanks, I will. I read about 20 pages of your build the other night, you have done an unbelievable amount of work. looking good. I spent an hour or so today removing some old brake lines that I could not get apart on the tear down and got the strut towers together a little. Waiting on Fed Ex!!!

[wheee!]

Thanks... it could not have been done without all the support of this forum and its members. Still lots to go!

[sweatybetty]

my springs were more pink than red also

[jlenownnab]

Are you happy with the quality and height of the springs?

[sweatybetty]

i dont have the car finished yet, so i cant say yes or no.

[Hardway]

I think your question of how far to take the engine appearance is a personal preference.  I think a clean and well detailed engine is the way to go.  Too much bling = time spent polishing and cleaning all the time.  If your engine is stock then getting the details right go a long way.  Mine is stock and has received a fair amount of yellow zinc plating on parts along with the correct rubber bits and clamps.  The previous owner polished the front timing cover and alternator so I keep up with it as best I can.  The aluminum radiator top is due for a round of polishing as well.  If I had to do it over again I would have gone with a black 280z radiator.