I was thinking about freshening up the suspension!

[jlenownnab]

Well, nothing good! Got my Doorman bushings today so went down to put in the final peice of the puzzle but the corners must be bent on a couple of peices. Although the car starts and idles nice on the lift, It continues to stall when you push the clutch in... usually on a down shift. I was told by a specialist that worked on it before I took it apart that it was the idle air valve. I swapped that out with the one off my parts car and still no luck, acting the same way. next, The transmission is popping out of 4th gear and grinding when I try to put it in to 5th.#%#?*&%$##!!! I guess it was a gamble buying a parts car that didn't run. I am guessing the tranny needs rebuilt?? Any opinions on why its cutting off when at speed, usually when the clutch is depressed?

I guess your work is not done here just yet!

[Mark Maras]

 Does the clutch pedal feel normal when it's depressed. In other words, nice and smooth all the way to the floor? Also, You mentioned it usually stalls on a downshift. What other times has it happened?

[siteunseen]

Take the shift rod out and look for fresh scratches above the bottom end.  That's what my 5 speed did after putting in place of the four speed.  The bottom gears, fourth and reverse, your shifter might not be going far enough forward when you pull it back.  It will have a scratch on the front side of the shift rod right above that little plastic cup.

To me it sounds like the BCDD needs adjusting if it drops when you push the clutch in.  Or the throttle position vane isn't making contact with the idle side?  Could be a spider web keeping it from contact.

[jlenownnab]

Clutch is new and feels good. So, say I start out from a stop light and run through the gears at normal shifting times and drive a mile or two at say 40mph. If I am cruising at 40mph or whatever  speed and see I need to slow down or prepare to stop, a lot of times when I push the clutch in to maybe drop it in to 3rd or 2nd the car just dies. I go ahead and put in gear anyway and release the clutch and it kick starts and will run fine til next time I coast or down shift then it does it again. Could it be the coil?

I dropped trans off at transmission shop this morning. Nothing like undoing everything you just did.

[Zed Head]

The dash pot might need adjustment.  It has what looks like a game piece or vacuum fitting on the top.  Screw it in toward the throttle linkage to slow down the action.

When my engine was running rich I found that the idle speed would drop lower when the the pedal was lifted.  Sounds more like a minor tuning problem than a loss of coil power.  You can use the dashpot adjustment to bandaid it while you fine-tune the rest.  Also, advancing the timing caused my idle sped to drop more on throttle lift.  Lots of little things can add up.  Good that you're in to the small details now though.

Check the roll pins in the shift fork if you get it that far apart.  Also the wear pads on the shift fork.  And the coupling sleeve.  And the bearing, and the nut on the end of the shaft.  Check the drain plug magnet for metal "clues" and the fluid for plastic or brass clues.

[jlenownnab]

Thanks zed. I just got the call from probably one of the best transmission shops in cincinnati where I dropped it off to Friday. Nothing is wrong with the trans, nothing! They tore it all the way down, cleaned and inspected everything and put it back together. Then they tore it down again and reassembled once more, they say it's perfect. So , for $200 I know what I have. I was almost hoping it was bad just to solve the problem. I guess my next step is to grind down the shifter front and rear. I just don't get How grinding the shifter down will keep it from popping out of 4th gear? I'm assuming the shifter is preventing it from going all the way into 5th which is why it grinds at 5th. I used all clutch products associated with my 75 4sp, is that correct also? Thanks in advance!!

 

[siteunseen]

The shift  rod won't go far enough to completely engage the gears.  I bet you if you pull it you'll see the nicks I've shown you.  Put some paint or fingernail paint around the bottom, put it back in and go through the gears.  You'll see the new scratches.  Just a little grinding and recheck it. Don't take off too much but as long as your don't gorilla arm shift it will be fine.  I'm speaking from expirence I promise.

[jlenownnab]

I'm totally going to do what you said tomorrow night. I'm sure your right, I just want to understand it fully. So, if I'm using the shifter out of the 79 and I'm using the tranny out of the 79, why all of a sudden would the shifter be hitting the shift pot? That's what I'm trying to get my head around because it's not like it's hitting the trans tunnel.

[Zed Head]

You might consider leaving the rubber boots and leather off when you put it back together so that you can see the shifter action.  Maybe the trim pieces are getting stuck in the gaps.  It's the stuff you don't think about that isn't obvious until you think about it.

Did the transmission shop mention anything specific?  Did they check the roll pins in the shift forks, and the bearings in the adapter plate?  A really good shop would have a check list to show what they inspected, and even a separate list specific to a problem, like shifting.  Just saying, "we didn't find anything" doesn't mean they looked in the right places.  Sometimes the good shops have been good for so long that they think they're infallible.

[Chickenman]

^ Yes I had that problem with a 240Z race car that we raced way back in Bell Bottom days. Changed transmissions from an early style ( F4W71A )  to late style ( F4W71B ) . Kept popping out of 3rd gear when ever you lifted the throttle. Turned out the big rubber shifter boot had to be changed as well. Slightly different design and the early boot was putting just enough pressure against the new style shift lever to pop it out of gear. It took surprisingly little force when the revs and loads matched just right. 

[siteunseen]

3 hours ago, jlenownnab said:

I'm totally going to do what you said tomorrow night. I'm sure your right, I just want to understand it fully. So, if I'm using the shifter out of the 79 and I'm using the tranny out of the 79, why all of a sudden would the shifter be hitting the shift pot? That's what I'm trying to get my head around because it's not like it's hitting the trans tunnel.

I didn't get it either but it was what it it wuzzz.  I hate that phrase but sometimes it's true?  I just told myself it sat lower in the the "pot" and went forward with my plan.  Pull the shift rod and look for those little nicks or scratches.  And leave everything off like Zed said until you figure it out. I drove mine for a hundred miles with no boot and could see the transmission turning and hear everything.  Thinking back mine popped out of 5th and reverse when I let the clutch out.  I went to my honey hole junkyard and got a spare shift rod to grind on first then when that worked I only had to barely grind the good one.

You'll get it I'm sure. 8^)

Edited March 16, 2017 by siteunseen

[siteunseen]

I could mail you my practice rod if you want me to. I'll take a picture tomorrow, I mean later today when I get awake for Thursday. 

Didn't @Dave WM have this problem too?  Sorry to bother you if you didn't but it seems like we talked about it.

Edited March 16, 2017 by siteunseen