Proud to be a Z Owner Again!

[FunkytownZ]

also, leaning towards not installing the fender flares... guy said he would have to cut into the body besides drilling the holes to mount it.  have to remove the body flares that are already on it to properly install the flares.

realllyyy feeling like not destroying that body.

so if anyone needs fender flares, i got a set..

[FunkytownZ]

after owning the car for almost a month and driving it for probably 6 hours by now, i've come to appreciate it's quirks and personality.  and probably the most important thing i've learned is that these S30's tend to drive and pull better when they are driven hard!

I do admit it drives better now than the day i bought it (either me being more comfortable or my improvements are already paying off), but there are a few small things i must bring here for some guidance and whoever is willing to chime in is much appreciated.

1) Idle Speed - idle is currently set at 1500 rpm.  The EGR has been deleted and air regulator disconnected.  I haven't adjusted the idle yet, I'd prefer it down at 800 but it's fine for the time being.  Reading another thread, could i cause issues by adjusting the idle down below 1000 with the air regulator removed?

Also, lately when downshifting while coming to a stop, the idle will increase to 2000 Rpm's with the clutch in or in neutral. If I quickly rev the engine it will calm back down to 1500.

2) Ignition / Starting - she cranks better when cold, turns over after about 1-2 seconds of cranking.  when she's warm, starting is much more difficult. Is this typical on these older cars? makes me nervous as hell when i'm out and about but keeps things interesting, she always fires up eventually.

3) Exhaust - i do get the occasional backfire during deceleration, and yes it is afterfire with the sound coming from the muffler.  I have 6-2-1 headers, 2.5" pipe and magnaflow muffler.  Could i have an exhaust leak somewhere, or is this typical?

4) Highway Driving - normal steering / ride under 45 mph is rock solid. Between 50 and 70ish, steering wheel has a pretty good shimmy in it that makes me nervous. The ride itself is good, just shaking wheel. Above 70 to 85 mph, wheel is steady again. Do I probably just need an alignment or could this be something more serious?

5) braking - my master cylinder is in need of replacing I believe. Brakes are sometimes mushy but after a pump or two they firm up. When the brake pedal is firm, she has good braking power.

 

[siteunseen]

The more you drive the more problems you'll find, it's like a relationship.  One month and the honeymoon's over.

To me it sounds like your BCDD is causing the high hanging RPM at stops.  Or it could be the dashpot plunger needs greasing up a little.  

Have you turned the big phillips headed screw at the throttle body, the air/idle screw for idle adjustment?

Hot restarts are a problem but it's not that hot yet so I'd be looking for something else causing it, maybe something electrical heating up or your fuel pressure dropping. 

Mine had those high speed wobbles too, new tires, rotors and wheel bearings plus an alignment straightened all that out for cheap except the tires and wheels.  Grab your tie rods and see how much you can move them by hand, they should be tight. 

I just bought, it's on the truck for delivery today, a MC from rockauto.com.  $47 delivered.  It is a Cardone #1368 maybe?

Here's some stuff to read on T/C rod bushings, they get worn and need replacing.  Compression rod is what Blue calls it in his write up.  Seems like the whole Hyper Flex kit cost me $239.  I did mine when I had the motor out for rebuilding, much easier.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

Edited February 13, 2017 by siteunseen

[FunkytownZ]

6 hours ago, siteunseen said:

The more you drive the more problems you'll find, it's like a relationship.  One month and the honeymoon's over.

To me it sounds like your BCDD is causing the high hanging RPM at stops.  Or it could be the dashpot plunger needs greasing up a little.  

found an old thread you started.  I'll check if I even have one installed. 

Have you turned the big phillips headed screw at the throttle body, the air/idle screw for idle adjustment?

i haven't yet... planning on it, but wanted to ask the question before i start adjusting anything.  I'll try it and report back what happens

Hot restarts are a problem but it's not that hot yet so I'd be looking for something else causing it, maybe something electrical heating up or your fuel pressure dropping. 

both good places to start - thanks. 

Mine had those high speed wobbles too, new tires, rotors and wheel bearings plus an alignment straightened all that out for cheap except the tires and wheels.  Grab your tie rods and see how much you can move them by hand, they should be tight. 

my tires are new.  I could probably use some new bearings and an alignment if I had to guess.  I'll try the tie rods as well.

I just bought, it's on the truck for delivery today, a MC from rockauto.com.  $47 delivered.  It is a Cardone #1368 maybe?

found it, along with the booster.  I'll probably need both.  good to have another option, MSA wants to charge an arm and a leg plus hefty core charge

Here's some stuff to read on T/C rod bushings, they get worn and need replacing.  Compression rod is what Blue calls it in his write up.  Seems like the whole Hyper Flex kit cost me $239.  I did mine when I had the motor out for rebuilding, much easier.

awesome, thanks again!

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension.htm

see my comments in your quoted posts... thanks for the comments!

[siteunseen]

Really like the MC I got today.  Quick shipping, looks brand new and says "NEW".  I need to straighten up the reservoirs a touch but overall A+.

[FunkytownZ]

lookin good!  lemme know how it performs for you

[siteunseen]

I'll post pictures if it doesn't work.

[FunkytownZ]

well, appears I have the following parts removed from my intake / EFI system:

1) Air Regulator

2) BCDD

3) Dashpot

4) EGR

5) Altitude switch (under dash next to the hatch pull)

I've read a lot of these removed can actually be upgrades.  My Z did come from Arizona, Cali before that so it could have had all the Cali smog additions removed after she turned 25.

I fired her up and let it warm up, then started cranking on the idle screw and lowered it down to 1000 rpm.  idle was a little rougher, but VERY rich.  it was already running rich, especially with 93 octane, but this was Donald Trump rich.  It revved okay at that idle, no issues.  cranked it back up to 1500 for the time being.  Next time i'll take it out and drive with the idle adjusted and bring a screwdriver with me and see how it does. 

my throttle body has a big phillips idle screw.  did the L28 come with both a phillips and a flat head screw?  everything i've seen in a manual was flat head

my next question - is the routing of my ignition coil wire close to the EFI harness and CSV an issue?  next i'd like to temporarily re-route it and try firing it up

 

[JSM]

1 hour ago, FunkytownZ said:

well, appears I have the following parts removed from my intake / EFI system:

1) Air Regulator

2) BCDD

3) Dashpot

4) EGR

5) Altitude switch (under dash next to the hatch pull)

I've read a lot of these removed can actually be upgrades.  My Z did come from Arizona, Cali before that so it could have had all the Cali smog additions removed after she turned 25.

I fired her up and let it warm up, then started cranking on the idle screw and lowered it down to 1000 rpm.  idle was a little rougher, but VERY rich.  it was already running rich, especially with 93 octane, but this was Donald Trump rich.  It revved okay at that idle, no issues.  cranked it back up to 1500 for the time being.  Next time i'll take it out and drive with the idle adjusted and bring a screwdriver with me and see how it does. 

my throttle body has a big phillips idle screw.  did the L28 come with both a phillips and a flat head screw?  everything i've seen in a manual was flat head

my next question - is the routing of my ignition coil wire close to the EFI harness and CSV an issue?  next i'd like to temporarily re-route it and try firing it up

If you feel underneath the throttle body the large cone shapped device is the BCDD. That is gone completely or or are the lines just capped and the wire removed. 

Funny, I've only seen the philips head in the TB as the adjusment screw. I recall seeing it as a flat head in the FSM though.

Have you cleaned the connectors on the CTHS in the thermostat housing? Do the sensor, plug and bullet connectors. I grabbed some emery cloth from ACE hardware and nail files. Then Cleaned with electrical spray. 

Eventually your plugs are going to fowl, it will be hard to start and performance will suffer if it continues to run rich. 

Edited February 14, 2017 by JSM

[Captain Obvious]

Couple comments:

That throttle speed screw looks like everyone I've ever seen.
If that pic is recent, you still have a BCDD. I can see the wire is still connected.
I assume you capped the AAR port on the top of the TB? Looks like it's open in the pic.

"Eventually your plugs are going to fowl" - What's the matter Colonel Sanders? 

 

[FunkytownZ]

pardon my ignorance - is this the BCDD?

 

 

[FunkytownZ]

On 2/13/2017 at 9:39 PM, JSM said:

Have you cleaned the connectors on the CTHS in the thermostat housing? Do the sensor, plug and bullet connectors. I grabbed some emery cloth from ACE hardware and nail files. Then Cleaned with electrical spray.

I've cleaned all the EFI connectors and used electrical contact cleaner a couple weeks ago.  seemed to help a little bit.