Hidden kill switches for S30 models

[240260280]

In a pinch, just take the distributor rotor with you.

If you have an EFI car just pull the water temp sensor connector.  ~ 1 mile of driving max.

[TomoHawk]

A small latching or snap switch on the water temp sensor wire would make breaking that line an easy thing.

[TomoHawk]

7 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You could probably rig up a bluetooth controlled relay actuated by one of the new thumbprint controlled phones. 

You can get wireless relays via eBay...

[240260280]

Loosen Lug Nuts

 

[TomoHawk]

13 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Loosen Lug Nuts

 

Obviously, we really don't want to do that to a Zed, but on a MX5....   

Following up on the suggestion of a Bluetooth-operated immobilizer,  here is a writeup of one that is wireless, and practical. 

This item is an alternative wireless device.

  Both could easily be used as a way to disable an electric fuel pump.  Sorry, but for you owners of the early models, you'll have to disable the ignition, unless you can get an electric fuel cut off valve.

 

[TomoHawk]

if you cut the power to the ECU, will the engine run?

[240260280]

Fake Fusible link to ECU harness?

[TomoHawk]

On 5/5/2017 at 3:29 PM, 240260280 said:

In a pinch, just take the distributor rotor with you.

If you have an EFI car just pull the water temp sensor connector.  ~ 1 mile of driving max.

I'd say it would run even less, or not at all, coming from first-hand experience.  I had mine apart to clean it, then didn't get it solidly back together, and the engine wouldn't start later at a party.  Fortunately, there was a guy with good eyes to spot the parted connector.Plus, with all those wires in that area, it would be easy to hide.

[TomoHawk]

22 hours ago, 240260280 said:

Fake Fusible link to ECU harness?

I dunno exactly what you mean by that, unless you mean to replace one or both fusible links with special shunts that go to a switch of some sort.  One idea would be a latching relay, like this one on eBay.But still, if you disconnected one or both of those fusible links, would the engine run at all? 

[TomoHawk]

Has anyone measured the current draw on the starter SOLENOID wire while starting?  It might be a good place to add a switch or remote relay.

[Captain Obvious]

I have. First, let me point out that the starter solenoid actually has two coils inside it, which are wired in parallel (a "pull-in" and a "hold" coil). When you first apply power to the solenoid, both coils are activated and are used to PULL-IN the solenoid. Once the solenoid has pulled in, one of the coils is disabled and just the second coil alone is used to HOLD the solenoid in place.

So the answer to your question, based on my measurements is... When you first apply power to the solenoid, the solenoid current will very quickly ramp up to between 30 and 40A for a short period of time until the solenoid has pulled in. Then once the solenoid has pulled in and disabled one of the internal coils, the current will drop to about 8A when just the "hold" coil is energized.

And by the way...  It's those high currents involved that eats ignition switches for lunch.

Here's a guy who took apart a Bosch starter solenoid and talks about the two different coils:
http://www.ifitjams.com/solenoid.htm

[240260280]

All you EFI folks..,. if you want to disable your car in a pinch: Disconnect EFI fusible link (at battery).

 

Non EFI:

 

Could be a lot of fun a Zcon

 

Edited May 18, 2017 by 240260280