I think you'll be safer for it in the long run.  My concern wasn't about whether or not the exhaust went first or not at all.  The problem is if that fuel pump hits something like bottoming out over a speed bump, it will rip a hole in your tank which could very easily cause a fire and burn you up.  I wouldn't attach it to the tank at all.  

Thanks for the advice. You got a point. I will probably build a aluminum tank after I buy a Tig. I coated this tank but it is not the best choice for long run. It's dented with quite a bit of rust... as long as fuel pump goes I will try to put it on the rear frame rail. The tank has a mounting tab on it so I thought why not and then found out it's not the best choice.


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Changed the fried MSD unit. The car does run but it needs a lot of tuning.


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On ‎4‎/‎25‎/‎2017 at 10:41 AM, RS02 said:

Thanks for the advice. You got a point. I will probably build a aluminum tank after I buy a Tig. I coated this tank but it is not the best choice for long run. It's dented with quite a bit of rust... as long as fuel pump goes I will try to put it on the rear frame rail. The tank has a mounting tab on it so I thought why not and then found out it's not the best choice.


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I believe the '73 & 74's came with an electric fuel pump, as well as the mechanical pump.  There are threaded holes in the cross frame just in front of the fuel tank, on the passenger side.  Find those holes and clean out the threads.  On my '71, I fabricated an aluminum bracket, mounted it to the threaded holes and then mount the electric pump to the bracket.  That should keep the pump up and out of the way, and in somewhat of a stock location. 

I believe the '73 & 74's came with an electric fuel pump, as well as the mechanical pump.  There are threaded holes in the cross frame just in front of the fuel tank, on the passenger side.  Find those holes and clean out the threads.  On my '71, I fabricated an aluminum bracket, mounted it to the threaded holes and then mount the electric pump to the bracket.  That should keep the pump up and out of the way, and in somewhat of a stock location. 

That's what I did. It's just the carter pump that hangs so darn low...


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20 hours ago, RS02 said:

That's what I did. It's just the carter pump that hangs so darn low...


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I think you are not understanding what I said.  You mounted the pump to the tank.  I am talking about mounting the pump to the uni-body frame in front of the gas tank.  That will get it up much closer to the body.  I think I used a Carter pump too, and it did not hang down lower than the gas tank.  I wish I had taken a picture of it.  Maybe someone else used the same spot and could chime in with a picture.

Marty

I'd get a different pump.  There are plenty that will pull the fuel up a short way so that you can mount it in a better spot.  The pump that needs to be below the fuel level is more useful for a truck or some other vehicle with a high fuel tank.  Not a Z.

I think you are not understanding what I said.  You mounted the pump to the tank.  I am talking about mounting the pump to the uni-body frame in front of the gas tank.  That will get it up much closer to the body.  I think I used a Carter pump too, and it did not hang down lower than the gas tank.  I wish I had taken a picture of it.  Maybe someone else used the same spot and could chime in with a picture.
Marty

I see. You mean the thing between rear diff and tank... well that works.


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Now what's more this company that made a programmable timing module, Daytona Sensors. They did not do a good job on their unit and their post sale support is unbelievable. I am unable to reach to them via phone, email(2 address) or Facebook. Spent 200 dollar on a pice of junk. The dizzy timing advance is deleted by me because I like to have a bit more control. Now I screwed myself and have to wait on someone that obviously doesn't care about customers to respond. I should have bought the programmable 6al2. Ugh.


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13 minutes ago, RS02 said:

I see. You mean the thing between rear diff and tank... well that works.


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Yes.  Look on the passenger side up near the body.  There should be 2-3 threaded holes to use.  Make your own mounting plate, and you are on your way.

1 hour ago, RS02 said:

The dizzy timing advance is deleted by me because I like to have a bit more control

Did you modify the vacuum advance or the centrifugal?  Why don't you just bypass the Daytona thing, whatever it is?

Did you modify the vacuum advance or the centrifugal?  Why don't you just bypass the Daytona thing, whatever it is?

Sadly, I did take off both. And I screwed up by welding the mechanical advance...


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Well after countless calls they finally picked up. Now it's on it's way back to the company for testing.


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