Removing rotor is easiest.

Replacing rotor with one 180 degrees out of phase is easier than moving plugs around.

When I used to race bicycles, we used to loosen wheel hub cam locks when having to leave the bike for a moment to prevent hop-and-go thieves from going far. A little bit of manual effort but worth it.

 

For a fuel method that is not pump related:

SU:

1. Drop jets and jam with a fat C shaped washer to lock them lower and flood car.

2. Make fake SU plungers that are extra long and prevent the pistons from rising.

 

ECU:

Install a fake connector into the harness near the thermostat housing and plug it into the temperature sensor when you want the plugs to foul.

 

Edited February 5, 20178 yr by 240260280

what about a solenoid set-up that locks the throttle in the idle position?

7 hours ago, 240260280 said:

 

Replacing rotor with one 180 degrees out of phase is easier than moving plugs around.

 

Install a fake connector into the harness near the thermostat housing and plug it into the temperature sensor when you want the plugs to foul.

 

YOu'd have to make the backward rotor.  The sensor connector  idea sounds interesting, but I'm not sure how you'd do that;  it's not easy to work with the sensor wires.

I have a very simple trick to disable the coil.

Run a wire from the cigarette lighter to the tiu and connect it to the wire goint to the coil. When you press the cig lighter, the coil trigger goes to ground through the lighter. If you are concerned with the lighter popping out over a long period of cranking then you can fill the lighter element with solder.

No extra wires by the coil to indicate some kind of anti theft device and running a hot wire directly to the coil positive won't help them either.

When I leave the car, I just simply push the cig lighter in. 

Or run the ignition through a fake cigarette lighter and just take it with you to disable the circuit.

The fake lighter you take with you would be better.  Hang it around your neck.  A desperate thief could start pressing and switching everything (such as the cigar lighter element)out of desperation and get lucky.

Any kind of "key" you use to disable the car should be with you when you leave, just like the door lock key does. You should also have several (3 or more) wires coming from your anti-theft device.  If it has only two wires, it's kinda obvious to the desperate thief that you should connect them.  How about a fake Cat-5 Ethernet connector?  You can't shove a paper clip in it to short things, and you could wire the 5 or 7-conductor wire as a kind of "code." A non-powered USB charge port could do it, as it doesn't look out-of-place in a car;  it has 4 terminals.

Edited February 7, 20178 yr by TomoHawk

Is it possible to get into a USB jack to "re-wire" the terminals, so you could use it to activate several relays that will power the engine?  There are 4  contacts I think, so you could connect those to three relays.

What about latching relays?  they can toggle things.  I have them on the city car to control the turn signals using twp buttons, but I think they open when they lose power.  that could be good, if you chain them together like a combination lock.  But that's getting to complex, I'd say.  I'd still like to know...

" Invisible "  Scotch tape around the battery terminal lugs. Trust me, That confuses the hell out of people. Even a jump start won't work. Tape both positive and negative for added frustration. Thief ain't gonna hang around long... Quick, cheap and simple. 

I'm not going to take my battery terminal off to put tape on the posts every time I park the car. Needs to be something that I can do discreetly and easily.

"Easy for the owner to use while making it difficult for the thief to detect, disable, or bypass."

Ah... I was thinking more long term storage.