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Help!!! I want to go from an auto to manual...


texasz

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I'm sorry for kicking this topic, but I have a problem with my swap..

everything from the swap went fine, but I can't get the bushing in the crankshaft. it seems to be that the crankshaft is already the right size to fit the main transmission shaft without a problem.

the bushing that I have is about 2-3mm to thick everywhere!

could it be that I have another crankshaft? cause the inner diameter is exactly the same as the outer diameter of the transmission shaft, and it fits without any slop!

It may be there is already a bush in the shaft. Give it a scratch and see if is brass colour.

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philipnl......My automatic tranny crank did not have the brass bushing in it......I always take my crank to a machine shop.....have them check the tolerances, straightness, and polish the journals. I always replace the bushing on manual cranks and on automatic transmissions, I have them install a bushing. You need to make sure your crank has a bushing when you go from auto to manual. If not, you'll be pulling that engine right back out. :disappoin

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you still have the flex plate adapter on the end of the crank. Remove it (just sitting there) then you will have the correct ID on the crank.

well, no, I don't.. Problem is, I'm not that familiair with datsuns.. you'd say get the whole engine back out, pull the crankshaft out & get it to a shop?

My measurements say it fits correctly, and the bushing I've got, which I've compared with others, also for a 240z, won't ever fit in my crankshaft! it's way, wáy to big!

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You should be able to do it from under the car, no need to remove the engine. Post a picture of the end of the crankshaft. Apparently, the flex-plate spacer is a tight fit and looks like the end of the crankshaft but it's actually just pressed on.

The other big problem you'll run in to, even if the transmission shaft fits okay is that the flywheel will be the spacer's width away from the starter and may not engage correctly with the starter's gear. You may also find that you don't have enough threads engaged when you bolt on the flywheel,which could be a safety hazard.

Many other aggravations ahead if it is the spacer and it's left on.

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Just went out to the garage and checked a motor (l24) pulled from an automatic 240z. The crankshaft had the large opening in the rear of the crank. I have a spare 240Z crankshaft bushing. It easily taps into the hole to accommodate the manual input shaft. Can't imagine why your bushing wouldn't do the same if you're dealing with a crankshaft from an auto Z. BTW......you're right....if you're not rebuilding the engine, it's easy to simply install the bushing from under the car......simply tap in the manual bushing.

Edited by Diseazd
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hmm, you have a picture of your crankshaft for me? car is in our storage, which is way too far away for me now.. the thing is, everybody tells me about the bushing that has to go in, but the way it sits right now, it won't ever fit, as the inner diameter of where the bushing should go in is the same as that of the crankshaft!

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btw, the first part of my crank is the same size as the thicker part of the gearbox-shaft, and further in, the thinner part of the crank seems to be the same as the end of the gearbox-shaft, which is exactly the same size as the inner part of the pilot bushing... long sentence, but i hope you understand, ánd give me some advice! :)

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If the car is too far away to look, then this thread is really just a memory game. There are pictures of crankshafts around the internet. Search pilot bushing and 240Z or 280Z or 510.

Advice is to go to the car, climb underneath with a bright light and see what's really there.

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post-14126-14150827223501_thumb.jpg

Attached are pics of an automatic tranny crank.....the last pic is with no bushing.....two of the pictures I put the bushing in the hole partially and one pic of the bushing alone. Hope this helps. When installed correctly, the bushing is tapped all the way in. I didn't do that, because I wouldn't be able to retrieve it.

BTW....Whatever happened to the guy who started this thread? LOL

post-14126-14150827197523_thumb.jpg

post-14126-14150827198102_thumb.jpg

post-14126-14150827198673_thumb.jpg

Edited by Diseazd
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When installed correctly, the bushing is tapped all the way in. I didn't do that, because I wouldn't be able to retrieve it.

BTW....Whatever happened to the guy who started this thread? LOL

Ive seen people fighting with pullers and getting frustrated trying to get the spigot bearing out.

I use a round steel rod and grease to "punch" the spigot bearing out. Fill the hole with grease and use a round rod that fits inside the bearing. Its important to get it fitting snuggly to stop the grease escaping to easily. If its too loose, tape the rod with electrical insulation tape to increase the diameter. You could also use a long bolt and grind the hex head round until it fitted.

Push the rod into the grease and give the rod firm hits with a hammer. That forces the grease behind the bearing and pushes it out. You might need to repack the grease and repeat the process.

Once its out, clean the grease off and fit new spigot bearing.

Chas

PS: Yet another zombie thread. Its been sleeping since 2005 and the numbers of posts have doubled it the last 2 days.LOL

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