Looking to buy a Z car for DD That would be used in VT winter

[Yaboyolin]

Hey guys, I'm new here and realtime relatively new to the Datsun world. My uncle has a 280z that I don't think I've ever seen because it's been getting "restored" by some backyard mechanic. It's a messy deal, but that's not the point of this topic. I've been reading through the forums, and I know the DD question has been asked many times before, but there's a couple specific questions that weren't answered for me.

To start with, I drive a 1978 MGB roadster everyday so I'm used to odd, uncomfortable, and unreliable cars. It rides awful, it leaks oil, it's starting to rust, and it's just all around a bad car. But I love it because it's a true classic British sports car and I've made it mine. The cars in VT, I'm in Texas at the moment in college and am working on a ratty 1970 Chevy C10 to drive back to Vermont after this semester. I love the connection you make with these old cars and recently have fallen in love with the Z cars. They have that Ferrari look and sounds. I won't be buying the car for a few months, but want to be able to start looking and learn more about the cars so I can make an educated purchase. My budget will be slim, probably less than $3k. I know that not going to get me a nice car, but having a rat and being able to make it mine over time is preferred by me. 

So the basic question is, what's the car for me? A 240z, 260z, 280z, or a 280zx? 

The car will be driven in the Vermont winters, where yes, they salt the roads. I know the logical thing to do is to buy a beater and drive those in the winter, but I've done that with a Honda Civic and Toyota Camry and hated it. It's impossible for me to connect with those kinds of cars. So as much as I'm sure you all aren't gonna like this, it's gonna happen. So where do I need to look for rust and where does it need the most protection? I know in my B, the doglegs and rockers are problematic, as they are in most cars, is this also true with the Datsuns? And how do they handle in the snow/ice? 

I'm sure the 280zx will be the cheapest, but I hate the long nose/bumper thing, is there anyway to cheaply alter that so it at least sorta looks like an older Z? It's also my understanding that the later Zs had a handful of smog equipment, how difficult is this to remove? On an MG it's as simple as just taking it out and plugging all the old hoses, is the Z similar? 

Should I look for a carbureted or EFI car? My MG has a Weber DGV and a manual choke, and my Chevy the original Rochester Quadro, so having a carb that needs to be fiddled with is preferred by me, I like the simplicity of not having a computer run system. But which is better on these cars? 

I love driving and working on these old cars. The sounds they make, the smiles they bring, the joy of the open road. That's what it's all about for me. I'm hoping a Z can add fuel to the fire that my MG has already started (And possibly be a little more reliable, Lucas electronics haunt my dreams)

any other questions or advice? I'll be buying the best car I can afford but I'd love to hear from the experts. Sorry if some of these questions have been asked a million times. If you have any other threads or sites that I can read on I'd greatly appreciate it. I'll likely be asking many more questions in the future.

Olin

[JSM]

Welcome!

If your in Texas look there or neighboring states and bring back to VT.  You'll pay more in the NE with likely more rust then you will find there. Rent a one way trailer from Uhaul and tow back with your truck.

Since cost is an option and you don't like the ZX get a 280z. Cheaper, easier to find and fuel injected. 

Since your dead set on Winter driving under coat it!

Edited February 10, 2017 by JSM

[siteunseen]

Carl Beck's zhome.com has a rust prone areas description plus a lot more info.