What's Your Multimeter?

[beermanpete]

I have a Simpson 260 VOM, a off-brand DMM, and a Bluepoint analog Tach/Dwell meter.

The modern DMMs typically have a diode test function and a continuity beeper that are handy at times. Generally I prefer analog meters however.

[Zed Head]

Fluke 115, because it's cheap but high quality.  The tachometer function of  some of the other meters is nice.  You can use the Hz function on the 115 though and do some math to calculate engine RPM if you need to.

The Fluke 88 is designed for automotive.  Fluke makes nice stuff.

[Zed Head]

2 hours ago, TomoHawk said:

I think the only fancy thing that's useful on a DMM is a backlight for the LCD display.

Auto-ranging is convenient.  And auto-"polarity" identifying.  Don't know what the official name is but you you can use the leads backward and the meter will just add the appropriate negative sign if you get them switched.

[TomoHawk]

I think that's just what a 'smart' DMM will do.

Edited February 10, 2017 by TomoHawk

[TomoHawk]

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Fluke 115, because it's cheap but high quality.  The tachometer function of  some of the other meters is nice.  You can use the Hz function on the 115 though and do some math to calculate engine RPM if you need to.

The Fluke 88 is designed for automotive.  Fluke makes nice stuff.

I'd like to see a DMM that starts with a basic readout with a couple basic functions, like volts and resistance, and the you add on small modules that add more functions that you need, like capacitance, temperature or RPM.  Paying several hundred clams for a DMM with lots of special functions doesn't sound right when you just need the basics, but don't want a cheap unit.

[Stanley]

Innova 3300. Also couple cheapies but don't use them anymore. It's small and has and elastic wrist band on the back, which is very handy. Also some little plastic covers for both ends of each test lead to keep them clean. No back light. No continuity tester but don't think it's necessary since it's got ohms. Smallest ohms reading is 0 to 200, reads to .1 ohm which is OK for automotive I guess. Might need better accuracy for audio and other electronic stuff that use tiny resistors. Need a box for it. Also need to make a long wire with clips on the ends to check resistance and figure out what wire goes where (under dash to engine bay, etc).

Don't know much about electric stuff, but the meter allowed me to diagnose broken ballast resistor (measuring resistance is the easiest thing to do with a DMM).

[240dkw]

Fluke 73 III, wish I still had a Fluke 8060A.

[Captain Obvious]

Personally, I'm not a big fan of auto-ranging. I've found them to be annoying.

And I don't think I would use a "continuity" setting much either. I just use a low Ohms scale. What is "continuity" anyway on a meter? Some arbitrary threshold below which they sound the beeper? About the only advantage I can see is that it might be a little faster than waiting for the reading to settle?

[JLPurcell]

IDEA using it today while wiring my son house.

[240260280]

6 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

Personally, I'm not a big fan of auto-ranging. I've found them to be annoying.

And I don't think I would use a "continuity" setting much either. I just use a low Ohms scale. What is "continuity" anyway on a meter? Some arbitrary threshold below which they sound the beeper? About the only advantage I can see is that it might be a little faster than waiting for the reading to settle?

  Bruce... I agree... but I use the beep for chasing wires to find the right one in a multi-conductor connector or cut multi-conductor cable or similar. It is priceless for those situations.

[TomoHawk]

I have a buzzer that I made when fixing the horn wiring & switch.  I use  it like a test light now.

[TomoHawk]

Craftsman has some multimeters that I think could be used for automotive stuff.  Has anyone tried them?