1 minute ago, geekin said:

yup so long as I can get it working I can figure out whats not working. ill wire up the pump first then check the ignition. I haven't messed with the ignition at all. changed to a removable steering wheel setup but the ignition was left alone. still have to fix the horn though. the contact plate wasn't working well with removable steering mount. every time I turned the horn would go off hahahaaa

Well, I would do the key switch first.  Easier then crawling under the back of the car and may solve everything!

Oh do this.  Put the key to ACC, then start the car from the starter and see if it runs.   Disconnect the wire from the solenoid on starter (small white one I believe) and then use a bump switch to start it from the engine bay. Bridge the wire you unplugged and the larger starter wire coming from the battery to a switch you hold in your hand.

so if lets say I wire fuel pump to battery and car runs. what would be the next step and vice versa?. also what would bump starting it prove? that the key switch is bad?

1 minute ago, geekin said:

so if lets say I wire fuel pump to battery and car runs. what would be the next step and vice versa?. also what would bump starting it prove? that the key switch is bad?

Maybe.

Do you need the car for daily transportation? If not, then I would start with the key switch checkout. 

If you do need it, I would try the starting from the engine bay, "bump start" with just the key at ACC.  If that doesn't work then try running the fuel pump jumped.

no its not my daily anymore. what is the keyswitch checkout?

 

This is from the EFI Bible.  I may be similar to the 78, but I think this is for the 75.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/efisystem/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

 

that diagram wont work on a 78 cause the afm doesn't control the pump anymore. 3 relays control when the pump is on. but if previous items don't work ill pull the switch and try continuity checks

Don't forget to check the simple stuff first. A bad ballast resistor could allow the car to start, but it would cut off as soon as the key is released. Use an ohmmeter and check across the terminals on the opposite sides of the resistor. If it's more than a couple of ohms, that is your problem.

tried to hook up the pump to the battery but one of the nuts for the terminals on the pump wouldnt come off. got to dark to fidget with it any further. plus im working on it in the parking lot of my apartment. ill try again tmrw. thanks for all the great advice. hopefully one of these things will bring results.

Get two alligator clamps for the pumps terminals.  You need a quick way to kill the juice if something starts squirting fuel any way.  They're cheap.

Mine had some kind of "Bondo" looking pink stuff on them too.  Vibration, weather proofing?

Edited February 14, 20178 yr by siteunseen

no the bolt just spins and its not in the bracket but its held up to the frame with rather large zip ties. because of the limited space I would have to disconnect the fuel lines to get enough space to get at it. but I will look into those alligator clips. probably wont try to work on it till this weekend though. thanks for the help