Nothing coming from ignition coil

[EuroDat]

I agree Zed. First identify the problem, then fix it. It could be a number of things causing his problem and changing stuuf will eventually solve it, but that can cost $$$$.

It could be as simple as a loose pick-up coil and the gap is now too wide. Just saying....

The tests I listed in section 9 of the instruction are out of self evaluation and from the manual. It should be enough to identify where the problem is or eliminate sections until one item is left.

Testing the TIU is very difficult for the home hobbyist, but using the process of elimination you can identify it ss the cause.

 

A quick test would be: Disconnect the TIU plug and use a wire with spade terminal to make a connection to ground. Turn ignition on and tap the wire rappidly to ground while someone checks for spark using the timing light on the HT wire going from coil to the distributor cap. That would eliminate everything on the coil side of the system. Then it's down to testing the reluctor, reluctor wiring, TIU and power/ground to the TIU.

[The_Wondrous]

Thanks so much for the responses and input   To attempt to clarify things I did some digging and found out I have a 1981 280 ZX engine inside of a 1978 260Z body and I have the Clymer manual for 240-260 and 280Z. Yea, it's not the best but I got it when I bought the car and I bought the car when I was 18 haha. I had the dream of restoring it and passing it along to my kids one day but like most peoples dreams, life got in the way, so I've never really researched her or how to properly fix her  .  The "Next to battery" thing was just based off a picture while I hastily skimmed through in frustration. I've got a little bit of time now this week so I dig deeper into it and maybe actually fix it. 

 

I'll see about printing out the FSM from the downloads section and see what all I can do. My terminology of cars is about 10% so I know about a pickup coil but not really where it's at. Is that a part located inside distributor / under the distributor cap in that assembly thingy? I'm a motorcycle mechanic more than a car mechanic haha but I try. If my pickups are bad I'll move on to testing the TIU but I'd rather avoid the super technical stuff until I have no more options.

Edited February 21, 2017 by The_Wondrous

[SteveJ]

Unless that car started out as a right-hand drive and you converted it to left hand drive, you have a 1978 280Z body. The distributor and ignition are from a 280Z. 

Jim @jfa.series1, is there a knowledgeable person in ZCOT who could make the drive up I-35 to help him with testing?

[jfa.series1]

1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

Unless that car started out as a right-hand drive and you converted it to left hand drive, you have a 1978 280Z body. The distributor and ignition are from a 280Z. 

Jim @jfa.series1, is there a knowledgeable person in ZCOT who could make the drive up I-35 to help him with testing?

Steve - as it turns out, we have a member in Denton (school and work!) that might be just the right guy.  Time permitting, he's on this forum.  I'll contact him to see if he can make some time.

Jim

[Zed Head]

Is it sure that the distributor is the 280Z unit?  I can't tell from just looking at the cap in the picture, but the idle speed screw is ZX style so it looks like somebody stuck a complete engine in.  Could be a ZX distributor.  And they have their own set of problems, with loose bushings, broken reluctor magnet rings, and modules that experience sudden death.  Which it is changes the thought processes.  Would be worthwhile to take a close look at it.

Look for the "black box" on the side of the unit.  Here's a picture from atl Z. And a link showing the problems and parts.

http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

 

[SteveJ]

I'm not seeing where the wiring is hiding for the matchbox if it is a 280ZX distributor. That's why I was thinking it was a 280Z distributor. Of course, the wires could just be hidden well enough. I could swear that the wires on my 280ZX distributor are more visible, but that could be that I don't have as many things in my engine bay that could conceal the wiring.

[Zed Head]

Other oddness - his picture shows the terminal block and wires for a dual pickup.  But 78 supposedly doesn't have that option.  And the module that EuroDat showed is for a single pickup, with a 78 plug connection instead of the earlier screw-terminal type.  I've used a single pickup 78 module in my 76 dual pickup car though, so that swap is doable.

Proposed next action - remove distributor cap and take pictures.  Many questions will be answered.

Edit - there seems to be an extra ground wire (although it looks red) on that terminal block also.  Maybe a clue?

Edited February 21, 2017 by Zed Head

[siteunseen]

It's wired like my '77 I think,  original 280 distributor.  Looks to have been repaired sometime too.  The red and green wires connection box?

Edited February 21, 2017 by siteunseen

[jfa.series1]

PM sent to the poster.

[EuroDat]

Since he showed us a photo of the E12-27 TIU, I thought it was a 280ZX engine in a 1978 280Z with the original distributor. The EFI harness doesn't include the ignition system, so that is quite feasible. The terminal block in front of the coil is still intact which would also indicate the 280Z distributor. The top view of the distributor doesn't give any view of the module.

Based on the photo's posted above my conclusion was the engine has a 280Z distributor with E12-27 TIU and a 280ZX EFI system.

I think The Wondous made a error quoting 260Z. It looks like a 280Z to me. Unless someone has done a lot of frame modifications for brackets like AFM mount. 

[The_Wondrous]

I was told it was a 280ZX engine, but if I was wrong about the frame then I potentially could be wrong about the motor, but im about 80-90% sure it's a ZX engine. The people I purchased it from said that they pulled the engine out of an 81 ZX. As far as extra wires coming off my distributor, I only ever saw the two that go to the coil. Could be some more hiding so I'll check around today.

[SteveJ]

It's a challenging to know what exactly a previous owner did. It's even more challenging when you aren't that familiar with the cars to begin with. Last month I went to a guy's house to help him with his 260Z that he thought had stock ignition components. I looked at the ballast resistor and saw it was a 240Z resistor. Plus there were a couple of minor wiring issues. Once everything was sorted out, he was in a position to fix his car.

It looks like someone could have taken a later motor and put the 280Z distributor on it. The wires to the ignition module could hide under the hoses and plug wires in the area. That was the discussion we were having in some of the earlier posts.

I hope Jim is able to find someone who can go out to see what you have. Once that is understood, we can probably put you on a path to getting the car back to running.