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Nothing coming from ignition coil


The_Wondrous

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3 hours ago, The_Wondrous said:

I was told it was a 280ZX engine, but if I was wrong about the frame then I potentially could be wrong about the motor, but im about 80-90% sure it's a ZX engine. The people I purchased it from said that they pulled the engine out of an 81 ZX. As far as extra wires coming off my distributor, I only ever saw the two that go to the coil. Could be some more hiding so I'll check around today.

The intake manifold and parts look like an 80-83 280ZX engine.

I was serious when I said to remove the distributor cap, take a picture, and post it.  Half of the ignition system questions will answered.

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That would be good to know but it won't tell anything about the ignition system.  There are a green and red wire coming from the direction of the distributor to the terminal block, in his picture.  So odds are decent that it actually is a 280Z type system.  But, there's no confirmation.  Beside seeing the trigger system, if he removes the cap, it will be easier to explain about the air gap and the pickup coils.

Notice also how dirty the terminal block and wires are.  Could be a simple shorting out of the trigger pulse.

What's kind of funny is that back in the days of points, removing the cap would probably be the very first thing a person would do if they had a spark problem.  

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On 2/18/2017 at 1:45 PM, The_Wondrous said:

Found the transistor ign module. The book says specialized equipment is required to test it. Are there ways of testing it without the specialized equipment? Am I even on the right track? 

We might all be getting distracted.  Maybe you should check for spark.  Could be a fuel supply issue.  An easy test is to squirt starting fluid in to an intake manifold port then try to start it.  If it starts for a second, you've been on the wrong track.

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41 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

That would be good to know but it won't tell anything about the ignition system.  There are a green and red wire coming from the direction of the distributor to the terminal block, in his picture.  So odds are decent that it actually is a 280Z type system.  But, there's no confirmation.  Beside seeing the trigger system, if he removes the cap, it will be easier to explain about the air gap and the pickup coils.

Notice also how dirty the terminal block and wires are.  Could be a simple shorting out of the trigger pulse.

What's kind of funny is that back in the days of points, removing the cap would probably be the very first thing a person would do if they had a spark problem.  

Are you sure?

OK    CANCEL

ROFL

 

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On 2/20/2017 at 8:43 AM, The_Wondrous said:

Update: Found out my car is actually a 260Z body with a 1981 280Z engine.

Managed to find the FSM online here: http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/280z/1981/ 

If you have a 280Z igniton system you want one of these manuals - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

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Got some pictures of the engine numbers and distributor cap. It looks like I have one pick up coil, a red and green wire and no black box do-hickey. I took the screws out in the picture but put them back in. I thought the assembly may pull out as a whole but it did not come easily so i didn't force it. I have not checked the vacuum system on it or really done anything except test resistance across the red and green wires. 

IMG_20170222_172251343.jpg

IMG_20170222_173922312_HDR.jpg

The manual I have for testing the pickup coil is from a 280zx, however they specify "approximately 400 ohms" and not anything in the mega ohms. If it's "anything substantially over or under, then check the pick up coil." Yet there's not a way specified to test it other than plug in another, at least not in the manuals I have right now

Here's the bottom engine#

IMG_20170222_175759055.jpg

and here's the top one.

IMG_20170222_175729241.jpg.

You guys have been very helpful with this and thank you a lot! :)

 

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11 hours ago, Zed Head said:

If you have a 280Z igniton system you want one of these manuals - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

Looks like you have a mish-mash parts.  A single pickup distributor, which is right for 78, but a two pickup terminal block. 

If I read your meter right, you're in the Mega-ohm range.  Not the spec. you're looking for.  The test shown in the FSM, for that distributor, is from the TIU plug but it ends up on the same wires you're testing.  Spend some time making sure you're getting good contact with your probes and that the ring connectors haven't broken loose from the wire ends.

The test and spec. is shown on page EE-32.

 

Mega bad.PNG

pick-up coil test.PNG

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Darn it.  Just realized I was looking at your terminal block wrong.  It's actually right for 78.  Ignore all comments about two pickup coils, yours looks right, a block for a single pickup.  But the resistance you measured isn't right, it's way too high, essentially open  Triple check those wire ends, it looks like somebody put new ends on, and might not have got them right.

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It does look that way.  From here he could go through the 1978 Engine Electrical chapter tests.  Your documents might be a bit much for the OP at this point in time.  Just saying, it took a few days to get to the pickup coil.  No offense.

To the OP - the rotor pulls right off the top of the shaft, in that picture, it's a press-fit.  That will give you a good look at the other parts.  The wires to the pickup coil look fairly weathered, they could be broken where they enter.  Also, there are other things you should check while you're n there, but it might be best to focus on one at a time.

grody dis.PNG

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3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

It does look that way.  From here he could go through the 1978 Engine Electrical chapter tests.  Your documents might be a bit much for the OP at this point in time.  Just saying, it took a few days to get to the pickup coil.  No offense.

To the OP - the rotor pulls right off the top of the shaft, in that picture, it's a press-fit.  That will give you a good look at the other parts.  The wires to the pickup coil look fairly weathered, they could be broken where they enter.  Also, there are other things you should check while you're n there, but it might be best to focus on one at a time.

grody dis.PNG

It's taken me a while because I've got another motorcycle project with the exact same issue of no spark yet power to the coils and I'm trying to not lose my sanity lol. I'll do a few minutes to a hour of work or troubleshooting and then come back to it tomorrow. I'm not a huge car mechanic guy and I don't really enjoy the work so I only want to spend as much time as absolutely necessary, especially when my plans are to sell it shortly after I get it running again. 

I pulled the rotor off earlier and inspected the wires inside visually and they seemed okay. I discovered the guys before me did some "work" to the pickup coil wire, and by that i mean they cut both wires in half then did a bad solder job and wrapped em in tape. Why? No idea, but I re-did the solder and heat shrinked them separately and still was getting mega ohm readings. Autozone has a $30 pickup coil so I'll grab that and swap it out this weekend if they have it in stock.

13 hours ago, EuroDat said:

I believe its the original 280Z distributor and TIU. Everything seems to point to it, like terminal block, no ballast resistor under coil and the E12-27 TIU.

 

280Z_1978_GM_HEI_Mod_Rev3.pdf

TIU280Z1976_REV1.pdf

I downloaded and printed off the 1978 280Z from the FSM section here and based off that I believe I have a 1978 280Z - California model engine at least. That should help me and the next owner out in diagnosing and troubleshooting. 

 

I feel kinda like a heel for not taking care of my Z-Car as much as other guys on here but I bought it as my first car ever with dreams of restoring it or doing a skyline engine swap but then real life as a young man got in the way and it was just neglected. Now it just needs to run again and find a better home than what I'm giving it. 

Edited by The_Wondrous
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