Hey all! First time poster here, looking for my very first S30, as well as project car. I've been scouring a lot of ads and came across a potential hit. I think I'm familiar with the major things to look out for (rust, rust, and more rust), but could use some advice on a particular car. I am patient enough to wait for the right car, but at the same time I don't want to pass up a great car due to inexperience.

Link to pictures taken by owner.

Asking price is $4k. Basically, I need advice on whether or not this is a good specimen for a first project car, or if I'll be in over my head. Owner claims there is minimal rust with no rust in the floor panels and it is still "structurally sound". Some "minor rust" on front right fender. Obviously, I would have to verify this in person as I think extensive rust damage would be too much for a first project. They also claim they are 3/4 of the way through a turbo conversion and that the car runs but needs tuned. The key was lost so they have to hot wire it to start it. They also claim some of the engine wiring needs some work. Also, it's an automatic but for the right car I'm willing to do a manual swap later down the road.

My goal is to get a car with a sound body (at least sound enough I can put off repairs) so I can focus on mechanical stuff. Is this car worth seeing in person, or should I run for the hills?

Edited February 26, 20178 yr by beefpatty

Looks like it's priced for the turbo.  Front end looks bad, bumpers gone, only showing one door panel and one seat (makes you wonder).  

No idea where you're looking or where you are, or where the car is, so advice will be limited, re rust.  I got a complete 1976 car with minimal rust, non-running, for $1000.  Got 20,000 miles out of the engine once I got it going.  If you're just looking for a sound body, there might be better options out there.

Also notice that that's a 280Z fuel rail, not a 280ZX fuel rail.  Could be that all it really has is a TURBO valve cover.  Beware.

Edited February 26, 20178 yr by Zed Head

There's a lot that's fishy here: strangely cropped photos and photos that don't show much, what tuning needs to happen here? (i.e. does it have an aftermarket ECU?), and a missing key (that's kinda suspicious). I'd probably keep looking.

Thanks for the advice you guys, exactly what I was looking for. I would have never noticed the 280z vs 280zx fuel rail. After reading your replies I've decided it's all just a little too fishy so I'm going to pass on this one. The hunt continues...

I'd want more pics of the car before I could even consider placing a bid, offer. Under carriage, the wiring issue, proof of turbo, etc, etc. 

Just looks like a parts car to me. Missing too much. Note the hole where the EGR goes.

Edited February 26, 20178 yr by rcb280z

I agree with the others.  Probably the lack of pics is due to hide a lot of missing pieces (even the horns are missing).  Certainly not a  4K car.  That being said, I've seen worse.  It could be restorable but I would have to see it in person and offer much, much less. I'd keep looking.

5 hours ago, gwri8 said:

I agree with the others.  Probably the lack of pics is due to hide a lot of missing pieces (even the horns are missing).  Certainly not a  4K car.  That being said, I've seen worse.  It could be restorable but I would have to see it in person and offer much, much less. I'd keep looking.

Thanks! I ended up passing on it. Just for future reference, what do you think would be a reasonable price? I found another 240z that looks much better with an asking price of 8k OBO but as I'm still new it's hard to judge prices and I don't want to look like an arse with a lowball offer.

First, determine what kind of car you want. A daily driver (fair condition) with no repairs or minimal work required (5-$15000 investment), a light restoration project (15-$25,000 investment in parts and labour), or a full restoration or restomod on a rotisserie (20-$60,000+).

Be prepared for spending real money AFTER the initial purchase!

Spend more now and less later OR spend less now and a lot more later...

3 hours ago, beefpatty said:

Thanks! I ended up passing on it. Just for future reference, what do you think would be a reasonable price? I found another 240z that looks much better with an asking price of 8k OBO but as I'm still new it's hard to judge prices and I don't want to look like an arse with a lowball offer.

For that particular 280, just from the few pics, IMO I wouldn't offer more than 1500 tops if all the planets were in line.  And that's if if ran and could drive it home.  Mainly because you would spend at least 7K just to get it safely back on the road, plus whatever else it will require, interior suspension, brakes. The list goes on…… and then there's body and paint.

As far a looking for a project Z (they are all projects by the way, even if they are "finished") a lot depends on what year and condition. Series one 240s all original with matching #'s currently go for the most money. Everything after that kind of works on a sliding scale.  260's seem to be worth less even though they were only sold in the US for one year.  There are still quite a few 280's out there that are in fair shape.  ZX's can be even cheaper but the prices have climbed on all the the Z's lately. I don't  know where you are posting from but location also makes a difference.  West coast cars seem to be reasonable to us east coast folks just for the rust factor alone.  Wheee! just gave you some ball park figures that seem about right.

Keeping those #'s in mind you can approach your future Z with two thoughts in mind.  You can bring one back from the crusher and get the satisfaction of saving a Z and it will become "your" baby.  A lot of us have done that.  Or you could search for one that is mostly done. You'll still find things to fix/restore but the work will be significantly less.  There are quite a few I've seen in great condition around the 8-15K range that I know the builder/restorer are losing money on.  Much like if I were to have to sell mine right now . 

Spend your conscience and what you are comfortable with wallet wise. If you get infected like us, it won't matter in the long run.

5 hours ago, beefpatty said:

Thanks! I ended up passing on it. Just for future reference, what do you think would be a reasonable price? I found another 240z that looks much better with an asking price of 8k OBO but as I'm still new it's hard to judge prices and I don't want to look like an arse with a lowball offer.

You haven't really defined what you're planning to do with it.  A 240Z for restoration is very different than a 280Z for driving which is different from a 280Z with a transplanted turbo engine for power.  You were looking at the last now you're looking at the first.  Do you know what you want it to be when you're done with it?

7 hours ago, gwri8 said:

For that particular 280, just from the few pics, IMO I wouldn't offer more than 1500 tops if all the planets were in line.  And that's if if ran and could drive it home.  Mainly because you would spend at least 7K just to get it safely back on the road, plus whatever else it will require, interior suspension, brakes. The list goes on…… and then there's body and paint.

As far a looking for a project Z (they are all projects by the way, even if they are "finished") a lot depends on what year and condition. Series one 240s all original with matching #'s currently go for the most money. Everything after that kind of works on a sliding scale.  260's seem to be worth less even though they were only sold in the US for one year.  There are still quite a few 280's out there that are in fair shape.  ZX's can be even cheaper but the prices have climbed on all the the Z's lately. I don't  know where you are posting from but location also makes a difference.  West coast cars seem to be reasonable to us east coast folks just for the rust factor alone.  Wheee! just gave you some ball park figures that seem about right.

Keeping those #'s in mind you can approach your future Z with two thoughts in mind.  You can bring one back from the crusher and get the satisfaction of saving a Z and it will become "your" baby.  A lot of us have done that.  Or you could search for one that is mostly done. You'll still find things to fix/restore but the work will be significantly less.  There are quite a few I've seen in great condition around the 8-15K range that I know the builder/restorer are losing money on.  Much like if I were to have to sell mine right now . 

Spend your conscience and what you are comfortable with wallet wise. If you get infected like us, it won't matter in the long run.

This is all great information, thanks a bunch! I'm in the Mid-Atlantic so at least some minor rust seems unavoidable. I think one day when I have more space to work in I would love to do a complete restoration of a Z. For now, though, a driveable one that I can fix here and there is ideal for me.

6 hours ago, Zed Head said:

You haven't really defined what you're planning to do with it.  A 240Z for restoration is very different than a 280Z for driving which is different from a 280Z with a transplanted turbo engine for power.  You were looking at the last now you're looking at the first.  Do you know what you want it to be when you're done with it?

Yeah, I probably should have done that from the beginning. My current situation is such that I can't do body work, or any heavy mechanical work that requires taking out the engine. That should hopefully change when I move this summer to a place with a garage. So, I'm looking for Z's that can be driven today (or with minor mechanical work) that I can maintain until I'm ready to take on bigger projects. I fell in love with the classic shape of the 240Z so any early model 280Z or a 260Z are fine. If I can find one like that, then eventually I think I'd like to do a full restoration on it.

My list: 240, 280, 260 in that order. Why?
240 - simple, reliable
280 - not as simple, reliable
260 - not as simple, undesirable

The further West you search - the less rust you'll find.

Good luck!


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