Zpat Posted February 27, 2017 Share #1 Posted February 27, 2017 I know this is a well discussed problem but I did come across a fairly easy solution with simple tools for removing a incredibly stuck gland nut without removing strut assembly completely from the car although you will need to remove the top of the shock tower from the wheel well for access. All you need is a 12" (or larger) channel lock with 3" jaws, two 14" (or longer) 1/2" steel cheater tubes, I used EMT conduit, plus a pipe wrench, mine is 18". The channel locks work well as the jaws have deep teeth that will bite into the gland nut edge giving you a good grip where most wrenches just end up rounding the nut corners. The 1/2" conduit fits snugly around the channel lock arms increasing arm length giving much better leverage and the pipe wrench is used around the shock tube housing to hold it in place when you apply pressure to the nut with the locks, I recommend a helper to hold the pipe wrench so the shock housing does not move or twist. Once you have the locks in place with teeth pressed into the nut edge, push, push hard while holding the tube in place and the nut should release. For more leverage you can use longer 1/2" cheater tubes. It also helps to have a jack underneath the shock assembly to keep it from moving down when turning with the locks. Hope this helps... Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted February 27, 2017 Share #2 Posted February 27, 2017 I had an issue with the gland nuts on the fronts. When I was ready to do the backs, I applied brake fluid around the gland nut once a day for a few days. The gland nuts on those came off nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted February 27, 2017 Share #3 Posted February 27, 2017 That's a good place for some of those new " Cold Shock " penetrating sprays. They cool the part down to around -30F, shrinking it breaking the corrosion crystals. Then a very thin wicking penetrate fluid soaks in. CRC makes some. I've had very good success with these products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestafterbegun Posted September 12, 2018 Share #4 Posted September 12, 2018 I ended up stumbling upon a very similar solution and just want to share some pictures in case it helps anyone. I used Channelock pliers with my jack's handle as a cheater tube and my breaker bar to keep the front struts from spinning. I also didn't know this before, but Channelock pliers are directional and lock down more when force is applied (video). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hardway Posted April 6, 2019 Share #5 Posted April 6, 2019 A few years ago I modified a socket to make this job easier. This keeps the jaws of the pipe wrench or pliers from chewing up the gland nut. I have used it several times and it has never failed me. For an extremely stuck gland nut, get as much 50/50 ATF Acetone mix in to the threads as possible, let it sit, heat it up, then try unscrewing it. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57215-diy-gland-nut-socket-with-pics/ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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