Jury Rigging Fuel Pump

[just1n962]

There is a chance that I will be working a shift in atlanta on the 25th but I don't have any info on that just yet. Let's go ahead and shoot for that date and I'll keep you posted once I know more. I appreciate you helping me out here. 

[Patcon]

If that's what you started with, you've done good!

[just1n962]

Thank you. It has been a long year for sure. I would not recommend getting a complete rust bucket like I did ha but at the same time it makes you feel very accomplished. 

[Racer X]

There is lots of good information here, and for sure, it is much simpler than we often make it out to be. Think of the electrical current as if it was water in a garden hose. The battery is the reservoir, or water supply. The electron flow though the wires is like the water flowing through the hose.

 

One thing that has been overlooked and not mentioned is grounds, and connections. Without good grounds, and clean, tight connections, there will be problems. Make sure all the connectors are clean and shiny, and use dielectric grease to keep them that way. Grounds too.

The electrical system on your car is a 12 volt system. That is nominal voltage. Alternators generally put out around 13 to 14 volts, so when the car is ruing and the alternator and the regulator are functioning correctly a voltmeter will read higher that the nominal 12 volts. And you should see that same voltage anywhere in the system, even at the back of the car where the fuel pump is.

 

Also not mentioned here is the use of the ohmmeter function of the DVOM. Checking for excessive resistance is a great way to find poor electrical connections. Below is a link to some video that may help you figure this out.

 

Check out YouTube for how to use a DVOM.

 

 

Edited March 5, 2017 by Racer X

[just1n962]

I want to thank you all very much I have just solved the issue with the fuel pump the right way! I followed your instructions and got everything hooked up right. Now my fuel pump doesn't seem to be doing the best so I'm gonna try to clean it out again or just have to get a new one.. 

[Zed Head]

Good news.  The inside of the pump can get rusty or corroded if any water got in to the fuel and it sat for a while.  If you're on a tight budget there are factory EFI pumps in old Ford trucks and other cars, like BMW's, that will do the job, that you can get from a wrecking yard for cheap.  But the parts store Airtex pumps seem to be pretty durable too.

Racer X, "ground" was mentioned 10 times on page 1, and shown in an illustration.  Just saying...it's there.

[Racer X]

25 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

 

Racer X, "ground" was mentioned 10 times on page 1, and shown in an illustration.  Just saying...it's there.

You actually counted?

I see SteveJ mentions grounds five times in post #7, but doesn't mention the importance of good, clean connections.

 

You mention methods for making connection checks in post #12, but fail to emphasize the points I made. In fact, no one mentioned the importance of ensuring good, clean connections. The before shot of the guy's car shows a rusty hulk. My experience with these cars is that corroded connections are a common problem.

On 2/27/2017 at 1:58 PM, Zed Head said:

If you start using your meter to measure voltages you'll start to understand sources and grounds better.  Start at the battery by connecting the positive lead to the battery positive terminal then placing the negative lead on various body and engine parts.  You'll see how grounding works.  And the two tests mentioned for testing the relay are very simple and should be done.  Remove the solenoid wire and turn the key to Start with all of the proper wiring connected properly, and open the AFM vane with the key at On.  Both of those should supply power to the pump.  If you start connecting various wires to other circuits just to get power you'll end up creating more problems.

 

He admits he is lacking in electrical theory, so who knows, does he know how to read a schematic? Does he know the symbols and conventions used? I'm only trying to contribute to the discussion, and help the guy.

Perhaps you can explain how your snipe at me does that?

Edited March 5, 2017 by Racer X

[SteveJ]

I didn't emphasize it because I was planning to inspect in person, especially since the car has been recently painted.

[Zed Head]

11 hours ago, Racer X said:

One thing that has been overlooked and not mentioned is grounds, and connections. Without good grounds, and clean, tight connections, there will be problems. Make sure all the connectors are clean and shiny, and use dielectric grease to keep them that way. Grounds too.

You actually counted?

 

He admits he is lacking in electrical theory, so who knows, does he know how to read a schematic? Does he know the symbols and conventions used? I'm only trying to contribute to the discussion, and help the guy.

Perhaps you can explain how your snipe at me does that?

You offered good advice.  But it was already mentioned.   And you only have two posts and apparently either ignored or didn't put the effort in to considering what other members have contributed.  That's not good.  Just trying to show a new member how this forum works.  Generally, people here don't talk over what other members have already contributed.  They add to it.  It's one of the more civil and considerate forums on the internet.

I used the computer to count the mentions of the word "ground".  To be sure I was correct.  

Welcome to the forum.