Every few months or so I'm pulling the TPS out of my N/A '80ZX to find tiny amounts of moisture built up inside causing a slight miss at a specific RPM(1600-1800). Once cleaned out it runs like a golden chariot. I live in the rainy pacific NW USA where constant moisture and cold fog dominate most of the year. The car has been daily driven for the past several months while rebuilding my Jeep, so its exposed to the elements.

 

Has anyone found a decent way to seal or otherwise prevent moisture from building up in the TPS while still allowing for future removal?

Don't have that issue but have you considered spraying it down with wd40? It's a water repellent. 

Thinking about it....I had the moisture issue where the harness connects to the tps. That's where I used the wd40. Not sure it'll work inside the tps.

Edited March 19, 20178 yr by rcb280z

I wasn't too sure if that was OK with the electrics inside...but I'll give it a go.

 

I was hesitant to use it in the actual TPS, and it sounds like that isn't what you are suggesting. So I'm not going to do it. I've used some Deoxit D5 on the connector, which stays dry. For now, I will put TPS removal as a regular maintenance item when needed and remember how minute and trite my problem is compared to real problems that others have.

 

Do you have room to glue a small " Desicant" bag from a bottle of Aspirin under the TPS cover? Or try sealing the TPS cover with RTV? Modern TPS's  are all sealed and that is probably the solution. Very few cars have a removable cover like the 280Z TPS. 

A silica gel packet? Never thought of that. Thanks. I'll see if I can't get one in there.

What's the part number? I have a new one for a 280Z...

A22-602 420

I'll check it tomorrow but it doesn't sound promising. Someone commented that they aren't the same.

Thanks. I appreciate it. Not that they are related, but ignition modules from I believe '77-81 are compatible. The one I have is working and adjusted properly. According to the FSM ohmmeter check. It just likes to get wet.

 

It's the one with the rivets that fasten the black plastic cover to the metal base.

 

 

On 3/20/2017 at 8:25 PM, Chickenman said:

Do you have room to glue a small " Desicant" bag from a bottle of Aspirin under the TPS cover? Or try sealing the TPS cover with RTV? Modern TPS's  are all sealed and that is probably the solution. Very few cars have a removable cover like the 280Z TPS. 

desiccant bags need to be redried from time to time using an oven, so i don't think putting it in there would be any more beneficial than opening it up to clean out moisture from time to time. Also, if there is a moisture leak, then it would be dehumidifying everything, not just the TPS since it's not sealed.

Use a silicon spray instead. You can drill out the two small rivets on the back, and use M5 screws to hold the cover on again after you've opened it (for anyone reading that hasn't opened theirs yet). I've done this to all my Z31 TPS's. You can even use silicon gel/grease if that's all you have.

The silicon spray will coat everything that doesn't need to short, and the finger-follower will just wipe silicon off of where they ride and make contact. 

Thank you. That's very helpful, and I will do just that.

if it makes it run like poop, you could always spray the bajeezus out of it with brake clean and try something else, but i don't think you'll ever open it up again.

put some silicon lube in the connector housing too. its a dielectric grease.

in fact, put it on every connector that doesn't have a weather seal or at least whatever you can reach. you'll instantly know if the pins on a connector need to be looked at because every male/prong pin should wipe or scrape away enough silicon from its socket/female pin in order to make contact. if you're losing contact after applying silicon grease, that means it wasn't making a great connection to begin with and the socket terminals need to be de-pinned from the connector housing and deformed just enough so that it makes good contact again with the male pin.

i bought this kit for de-pinning after trying to use various needles, and screwdrivers and round steel tubes to get some connectors out of their housing for all sorts of cars. i don't use it often, but when i need to use it, its most often the difference between doing it now or doing it another day:

but thankfully, most nissan connectors can be de-pinned with a small hair pin or sewing needle.

this is getting a little off topic- but if you end up needing to do some connector work, i can post more info or pm me and i can lead you in the right direction regarding your concerns or issues.

 

Edited March 25, 20178 yr by Careless