Cleaned the valve cover after my first adjustment and see a type of glue holding the baffle in place. It appears to be cracking and a pro said I need to chip it out to avoid pieces falling into the engine and possibly clogging the oil screen.

three questions

what say you about removing it . Yes or no 

how would you remove it

does it need to be replaced 

thanks in advance

Edited March 21, 20178 yr by Dogariffic

Post a picture.  We love pictures.  

It's probably denser than oil and will just sink to the bottom, IF it even makes it there.  It will probably just sit on top of the head, IF it cracks apart.  But really, it's probably fine.  Poke at it with a screwdriver, and see if it's friable (word of the day!).  If it's not, why worry?.

I had to replace the baffle on my Z because PO had it removed for media blasting prior to polishing. A good idea, but they forget to put the old part back on. Idiots!!. I bought a  donor VC just to get the old baffle plate. Of course I had to remove the factory epoxy. Seals the baffle to the VC a bit more,  and keeps the mounting screws from falling out. But really, the Epoxy is overkill as far as oil spray getting past the baffle.  

You can chip out the old Epoxy fairly easily if needed. You do not need to re-apply any Epoxy. Nissan's idea of belt and suspenders as mentioned. There are small screws hiding under the Epoxy that attach the baffle to the VC.  The Epoxy does keep the screws from vibrating loose. Make sure you use a thread Locking compound on the screws when you re-install them.  Medium strength " Blue Loctite " is fine. 

Edited March 21, 20178 yr by Chickenman

Just took a photo. After cleaning...FYI planning to buff the outside with skotch bright in a minute , shoot the outside with a clear coat and off we go. .... if the valve adjustment went well.

Probably too late but cheap walmart oven cleaner spray foam works great on those, inside and out.

15 hours ago, siteunseen said:

Probably too late but cheap walmart oven cleaner spray foam works great on those, inside and out.

Good tip.   I used a Kroger Brand...Turned the cover a bit black but it buffed up ok with the skotch bright.  Did not seal the cover, though.  I will to pop it off in the future and do a really good job.....just want to drive it for a bit now....

 

Looks good, really good.  That's as nice of an engine bay as I've seen in awhile.  Have fun driving that time capsule! 

When you get a chance try calling your Nissan dealer and see if they can still get these.  I bought two about six years ago for about $5 each.  Here's two on ebay for $20.  They'll save you some headaches down the road. http://www.ebay.com/itm/240Z-260Z-280Z-FUSIBLE-LINK-COVERS-TWO-OEM-GENUINE-NISSAN/332000049036?_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dcf3907a4feaa4a6ea6afea83c603bb40%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D7%26sd%3D332000045273  

Motorsport has them for $7 and change. The fusible link cover.

How important is that baffle? I imagine Nissan had a good reason for it, no?

Thanks for the kinds words "Site".

And yes I agree I need the fusible link caps.  Actually, I need to go ahead and replace the links as well. Previous owner did not have them and no telling how long they have been exposed.

I will post a  video of the engine running at some point.  Just did a valve adjustment and she sounds great cold, but ticks some when warm...but she pulls nicely.  Very pleased wth the progress so far. About to replace the clutch and then move to the rear suspension and the interior last.

Edited March 22, 20178 yr by Dogariffic

They have the fusible links as well. 

The engine bay has that nice all original look to it. 

A little valve train noise is normal. As long as its not excessive you'll be fine.

Thanks rcb.

I just went to the site and had to hop off....kept finding other things to buy....I will get the fusible links and caps though.  

And she is pretty much original....Basically, a barn find with my son the third owner!  A local car and the second owner knows the first...Even came with the original documents so that is fun.

And the valve train noise is really not that bad.  I have been a lurker here on the site for several months while my son and I have worked on his Z and seen many of the stories of difficult running cars.  We have not had that many issues really.

She ran very rough at first ....not really driven at all for over 20 years....but after a couple of bottles of seafoam in the gas tank, and a cleaned out tank...things really improved. (still, some rust coming from the tank, though).  Then as she was driven the hose lines that had not been under pressure for very long time started popping......so we replaced every fuel line and every vacuum line, plus new injectors (came with the car), starter, alternator, and added a K&N Cone air filter.

Just completed the valve adjustment and it helped things a lot...May continue to refine this adjustment a bit.

Fun times!