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Possible fuel problem. 1976 280z 2+2

SeKcGamer
SeKcGamer
in Fuel Injection

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Posted
comment_516557

I've got my car running again and I've encountered a new problem. So after changing injectors and fuel pump and draining the fuel tank( ethanol fuel rotted in the tank) I've been just putting ethanol free. But the way I got my car running was when I took off the fuel damper and replaced it with a universal filter the car started right up and it's been running for about two weeks now, but today while driving it just died. The car would crank and the pump was going and I checked the fuel pressure on the gauge and I was getting about 42 psi but the car wouldn't want to turn on anymore. We tried pushing it and popping it in second and that wouldn't even work. So we had to tow it back with my dads van and we still tried popping it in second and it still wouldn't turn on while towing it. Should I put the damper back on even though it wouldn't turn on with it..?. I don't want to get stuck somewhere far away, since it is my daily driver.IMG_2517.JPG

 

 

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comment_516560

The damper has little effect on fuel supply.  The system will get just as much fuel with it as without it.  And the ethanol doesn't have much effect either.  I've been running 10% ethanol for about 7 years and 50,000 miles.

Sounds more like an ignition problem.  Check for spark.  If you have spark, try starting fluid.  If it starts with fluid but dies quickly then you'll know you have a fuel supply problem.  Could be lack of injection.

  • Author
comment_516561
  On 3/28/2017 at 4:47 AM, Zed Head said:
The damper has little effect on fuel supply.  The system will get just as much fuel with it as without it.  And the ethanol doesn't have much effect either.  I've been running 10% ethanol for about 7 years and 50,000 miles.
Sounds more like an ignition problem.  Check for spark.  If you have spark, try starting fluid.  If it starts with fluid but dies quickly then you'll know you have a fuel supply problem.  Could be lack of injection.

It gets spark, the engine turns over. It just cranks but won't turn on anymore. The fuel pump is kicking in. Is there a way to upload videos..?


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  • Author
comment_516562

Another note, when I start driving the car around and it's getting dark and time to turn on the headlamps the headlights do this surging thing, and the CPU icon flashes on and off, it even flashes when we don't even have the lamps on and it's pure daylight. You think that it could be an alternator problem..?


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comment_516566

For your first problem, if it fires when starting and quits when the key is in ON, it is either the ballast resistor, ignition switch, or wiring issue between the switch and ballast resistor.

For your other problem, what is the voltage? Have you compared the output of your charging system against what it says in the factory service manual?

comment_516576

That's a good point about the Start versus Run power at the ballast.  It will do a similar thing if the AFM contact switch is dirty or non-functional, but will run for a few seconds on residual fuel pressure.

SeK, you should try the starting fluid.  It will tell you a lot.  And if it does start then die immediately, you need to say that.  Won't "turn on anymore" could mean too many things.  The answer is in the details.

There is no "CPU icon" on a 76.  Where is this thing located? 

 

  • Author
comment_516605
  On 3/28/2017 at 3:53 PM, Zed Head said:
That's a good point about the Start versus Run power at the ballast.  It will do a similar thing if the AFM contact switch is dirty or non-functional, but will run for a few seconds on residual fuel pressure.
SeK, you should try the starting fluid.  It will tell you a lot.  And if it does start then die immediately, you need to say that.  Won't "turn on anymore" could mean too many things.  The answer is in the details.
There is no "CPU icon" on a 76.  Where is this thing located? 
 

It's the 2nd gauge and it below volts


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