Remove 1977 280z intake

[Jaymanbikes]

30 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

People sometimes have to grind them off.

That's my next plan of attack.

[JSM]

After many removals of intakes at the JY if the shield bolts won't easily come off I leave it alone. Done take the chance of rounding them off. Remove the intake, get a good 6 point socket and they come right off. 

[Jaymanbikes]

I managed to get the intake bolts off without any bolts or studs breaking, I also got all the exhaust bolts off except one. I am letting that one soak a bit more before I give it another go.


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[siteunseen]

I've never had any patience until these cars, now life is better. 

[Dave WM]

If you manage to get it off with out snapping anything I may be get up the nerve to do this as well. I my case is so I can get the exhaust mani off so I can take it to the machine shop to fix the broken studs on the down pipe.

[Jaymanbikes]

I could cut the last bolt off, just carefully split it with a dremel. The heat shield was the biggest pain, I cut it off from the top with a dremel. I have replacement shields and and a new intake that was powder coated so I didn't care if I damaged the old one. I am putting a coated header on and really wonder if it necessary to put on the heat shield. What say y'all?


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[siteunseen]

5 minutes ago, Jaymanbikes said:

I could cut the last bolt off, just carefully split it with a dremel. The heat shield was the biggest pain, I cut it off from the top with a dremel. I have replacement shields and and a new intake that was powder coated so I didn't care if I damaged the old one. I am putting a coated header on and really wonder if it necessary to put on the heat shield. What say y'all?


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I say yes.  If it's a 280 the shield will need trimming, I'll post a picture of what I did in the morning.  They keep the heat off your PCV hose and the master cylinders for the brakes.  The coated header from MSA is what I have and they do a remarkable job dissipating heat, fantastic headers IMHO.

If it's a 240 they keep the heat away from the carbs, percolation or hot restart prevention.

[Jaymanbikes]

It's a 280. The header I have is also from MSA, appreciate the info on how/what to trim.


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[siteunseen]

Here's where I trimmed mine, the red circle.  The other red circle is where my header touched the bellhousing.  Had to grind that down a little to keep it from rattling.  maybe your's won't hit there.

I used tin snips to cut that with then went back and sanded the edges then VHT spray paint.

Edited April 3, 2017 by siteunseen

[Jaymanbikes]

Here's where I trimmed mine, the red circle.  The other red circle is where my header touched the bellhousing.  Had to grind that down a little to keep it from rattling.  maybe your's won't hit there.
I used tin snips to cut that with then went back and sanded the edges then VHT spray paint.

Thanks for the info! I have a 3-2 header, doesn't look like it will contact the bell housing, we will see. I have a long road ahead of me before I get to that point. I am waiting for all the metal components to come back from plating. I am also considering at this point if I should just pull the motor so I can properly clean the engine compartment properly. The most intimidating thing to me is the AC system which works well. Not sure how I would go about discharging the system properly. It's has the old refrigerant which is really costly to replace as well.


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[Jaymanbikes]

Thanks for the info! I have a 3-2 header, doesn't look like it will contact the bell housing, we will see. I have a long road ahead of me before I get to that point. I am waiting for all the metal components to come back from plating. I am also considering at this point if I should just pull the motor so I can properly clean the engine compartment properly. The most intimidating thing to me is the AC system which works well. Not sure how I would go about discharging the system properly. It's has the old refrigerant which is really costly to replace as well.


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Here is where I am at now, lots of cleaning ahead.


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[gwri8]

55 minutes ago, Jaymanbikes said:

 I am also considering at this point if I should just pull the motor so I can properly clean the engine compartment properly. The most intimidating thing to me is the AC system which works well. Not sure how I would go about discharging the system properly. It's has the old refrigerant which is really costly to replace as well.


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 I considered pulling mine also when I wanted to clean the engine bay.  The cons outweighed the pros in my case except for the radiator, I did pull that and have it flushed, then I repainted it.  

I wound up doing one side at a time, unbolting everything and taping some hoses that couldn't  get out of the way.  Cleaned, degreased then repainted with colored matched enamel from the Automotive paint store as I went. Re-attached it all and was done (one side at a time, including the firewall.   It was a little time consuming but I didn't have to remove the hood and wrestle anything else.   If you are not painting, It should be even easier.  That is also a good time repaint the block if you desire and steel wool the copper A/C lines when you are there. 

Before and after shots.

Edited April 3, 2017 by gwri8
Added pictures