Possible break through in my 1976 280z 2+2

[SeKcGamer]

I took it apart and realized that it used to be the hazard switch. Then I found a hazard switch spare that I've gotten from a 78z but that wouldn't fix my problem. . So this wire is a direct shot from the battery.which is interesting. that's what it used to look like. Any ideas on where to go from here. I tried to install the other switch that I had my taking the jimmy rigged one out and putting a used one that's intact but that wouldn't solve the problem. .

this old one has a blue wire but none of the hazard switches I have, have this blue wire but have the rest of them

 

 

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[Zed Head]

Can't remember what problem you're trying to fix.  But, both wiring diagrams are available on this site and have the Hazard switch wires shown.

[SeKcGamer]

Can't remember what problem you're trying to fix.  But, both wiring diagrams are available on this site and have the Hazard switch wires shown.

The problem I was discussing about electrical was on the thread I made about the "possible fuel problem" at the end

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[Zed Head]

Just now, SeKcGamer said:

 on the thread I made about the "possible fuel problem" 
 

Which one was that?  There are a lot of threads out here.  I'd be happy to help but I'm not interested in searching.  You can post a link to the other thread, or copy the relevant words from it.  Just saying, make it easy for everyone.

[SeKcGamer]

http://www.classiczcars.com/index.php?/topic/57362-Possible-fuel-problem.-1976-280z-2+2

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[Zed Head]

The 1976 diagram by Saridout, here, is excellent.  The other unlabeled diagram is unknown, but here's a 78 link, 2nd one, I remember from the past.  It should be inthe Download section.  @Mike

http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/

The FSM's are here - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

[SeKcGamer]

The 1976 diagram by Saridout, here, is excellent.  The other unlabeled diagram is unknown, but here's a 78 link, 2nd one, I remember from the past.  It should be inthe Download section.  [mention=2]Mike[/mention]
http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/1-wiring-diagrams/
[/url] The FSM's are here - http://www.classiczcars.com/files/category/13-280z/

So I fixed the jerry rigging and realized that it was a hazard switch without the face on it so I had a 76'280z hazard switch laying around but there's a blue wire that was cut and wrapped around and that's where there were three wires, so I took off the third wire because it was one of those red fake wires that the last owner did and coupled back the blue ones and I connected the switch and now my hazards work[emoji3]. But. Now my last problem is that my rpm gauge and the temp, volts, oil, fuel don't work and neither do my turn signals. But I don't see what I'm missing. Because when the wires were all messed up they were all arced to different cables. Now I'm just left with this one cable that goes from the battery but I have no clue where it goes. The wiring diagram doesn't tell me exactly either[emoji53].
That's the wire starting from the battery,through the body of the car and to the center console but I have no clue where it goes. But I believe that may be the last step.


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[Patcon]

If you are referring to the red wire by itself that is punched through the grommet, that is another Previous Owners hack...

[SteveJ]

This is how I see your situation. It can be difficult to impossible to figure out why someone ran extra wires around the car. Sometimes it was because the IPO wanted an extra circuit. Sometimes it was because the IPO was unwilling or unable to diagnose something properly, so he came up with a "fix". 

On my 260Z, I found a wire that ran from the positive of my coil, through the speedometer grommet, into the passenger compartment and all the way to the back. I'm still not sure what the intent was. I removed the wire and lived happily ever after. 

You may now find yourself on an accelerated learning curve on automotive electrical wiring. It is best to return the wiring to as close to stock as possible. It could be the difference between having a safe car or having an electrical fire.

[gwri8]

Speed fix.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-280Z-DASH-WIRING-HARNESS-Very-Nice-/272413833775?fits=Year%3A1976|Model%3A280Z&hash=item3f6d213a2f:g:K8gAAOSw6n5Xp9oX&vxp=mtr

Even if you don't buy, maybe the pictures of the connectors may help.  

2 Questions:  How is that red toggle wired to your turn signal and hazard?  and I see a choke indicator where the fasten seat belt indicator should be.  Do you still have fuel injection or has it been switched to carbs also?

Edited April 9, 2017 by gwri8

[SeKcGamer]

Speed fix.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-280Z-DASH-WIRING-HARNESS-Very-Nice-/272413833775?fits=Year%3A1976|Model%3A280Z&hash=item3f6d213a2f:g:K8gAAOSw6n5Xp9oX&vxp=mtr
Even if you don't buy, maybe the pictures of the connectors may help.  
2 Questions:  How is that red toggle wired to your turn signal and hazard?  and I see a choke indicator where the fasten seat belt indicator should be.  Do you still have fuel injection or has it been switched to carbs also?

The red wire gave the other switches energy to turn on that's why it was there coming straight from the battery. Yea it's still fuel injected. I just switched the "choke" back to "fasten your seatbelt". But right now I took off the center console to get better access to the wires and Ive got them all on one side. But when I start the car the center gauges don't work and neither does the rpm gauge.


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[SeKcGamer]

Now I just have the wire that was connected to that red one that gave power to the gauges. Is there suppose to be a wire that gives the gauges power that I'm missing?


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