New 77 280z owner in Florida

[siteunseen]

2 minutes ago, Dave WM said:

on the AC, you would prob be better off going with a new stuff in the engine bay, compressor/drier/condenser. IIRC there is a kit for this about 400$. Hopefully the evap/exp valve will be ok.

Or, baseline what you have, confirm the compressor is locked up. If it is before you do anything pressurize it with nitrogen and look for leaks (soapy  water spray all around under hood connections and condenser.

IF no leaks you may get a way with a new OE style compressor and drier. Stay with R12 (find someone that will do this for you), and call it a day. likely you will have leaks at the condenser, I did. If you see leaks there and the compressor is locked up, then you may go with the new stuff I listed 1st.

I would stay away from a  complete system like vintage air inside unit (evap and blower) I don't like all the duct work and loss of vent air with those systems.

The good thing is these are very basic AC units that use flare fittings and very simple controls. the flare fittings are pretty much bullet proof (no o rings to rot out). Biggest prob could be the TVX, or leak in the evap coil. You are going to need a GOOD ac guy that will do it right. I have seen NEW evaps with modern style exp valves for about 300$ so that plus the 400$ for the under hood stuff plus about 700$ labor should get it going. 1500$ seems about right for a complete redo, and no body will get rich off that.

If you can do the labor yourself all the better, just pay for the parts.

 

 

Isn't there a fairly new commercial drop in for r-12? It's a pink bottle they used on the coolers at a restaurant I work at.

[Dave WM]

yea 4 something, but you can find shops that will still work with R-12 and it works pretty well. If you get new stuff under the hood (mainly the condenser) then R-134a would prob work fine, may work with the OE condenser, just not sure as I have not tried that. There are a lot of options for refrigerents including "dust off". You just have to know what kind of oils etc... the advantage of R-12 is you don't have to worry as much about oil compatibility.

Of course if you are replacing all the under the hood stuff  only have to worry about purging the evap with some cleaning solvent.

[FlyingScot]

Just watched a YouTube which referenced "Enviro?" as a safe replacement for R12. I do all my own labor except welding, fine bodywork and paint. Prior projects Have helped me find my limits - and I'm old enough not to delude myself .

Below will be the cars new home and workshop - getting organized.



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[Dave WM]

that's a propane and 134a mix I think. You should have no problems with the simple system based on your shop pic, anybody with a lift can do it. Just check that condenser for leaks that's the biggest problem. I was luck to find a NOS OE unit. the used stuff sold on ebay is iffy.

Edited April 22, 2017 by Dave WM

[Dave WM]

https://www.youtube.com/edit?o=U&video_id=tFB1J7hWUQw

this is the little bugger that may be rusted up. If they have been in an open system that is.

this is me testing it

 

Edited April 22, 2017 by Dave WM

[Patcon]

I agree with siteunseen on SEM for panel colors. Paint panel works really good on panels that don't get rubbed very much. I would work on cleaning the door cards and armrest with some good cleaners.

As for AC I would consider upgrading to a rotary AC compressor ...

[Captain Obvious]

Beautiful, and looks like an unmolested example. I wish mine had been that un-messed with when I got it.

However, with no bubble bursting intended... That's not original paint. It's been sprayed.

[FlyingScot]

Not busting any dreams. If it was sprayed it was a long time ago. Its kinda like my dad (74). Love him but over the years I've picked up some work or a project he has done and scratched my head - if it worked was good enough. Not sure what is under if has been sprayed. Will be on my lift next weekend and go through - regardless looks to be straight. Rust and bondo are my biggest fears - but as I said I've known the car and can vouch was never in an accident and never had major work done. It is possible PO sprayed it when he first got it - I know he had underbody treated with some tar/oil coat. Will let you all know - curious what paint meter will say. Will get treatment with a magnet and microfiber too.


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[siteunseen]

+1 with goofy Dad.  Love him until death but 78 years, woof.

[Captain Obvious]

Good. Was hoping I wasn't crushing hopes and dreams... That's always a risk.

So if I'm not mistaken (which is certainly not a given!!), I don't think a paint gauge will be necessary. It appears there is overspray:

On the rubber bumpers on the top edge of the fenders that align the sides of the hood
On the windshield washer bottle
On the top of the pass door jamb latch
Along the bottom of the pass door sill plate
On the rubber door seals at the upper front corners of the doors (in front of the side view mirrors)

[FlyingScot]

Great eye - and if body proves sound / minimal effort then I won't feel so bad about some of the changes I was considering. You are right on the rubber and sills - once pointed out can see. Unfortunately the guy that could answer isn't here. Like a box of chocolates


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[gwri8]

Look's like you're got a great base to start off from. That lift is sure to come in handy.  Add another vote for SEM. I did mine in the ginger color.  Had it custom mixed  and put into rattle cans at the paint supplier.  The interior panels (not the vinyl) needed a water based paint and had to be cleaned/degreased first,  then sprayed with an SEM product called Sand Free. Then apply the paint immediately after.  It has held up well.