Wesley's Dream & The Journey of a '72 240Z

[notWes]

I had a couple free hours this weekend so i jumped into the garage to hunt for my leak source. I found a coolant leak and an oil leak! Just waiting for the transmission to leak now [emoji106]

Coolant's definitely leaking from the rad core and the rad cap seal is in mediocre condition. The water jackets are definitely obstructed looking at its condition just from inlets/outlets. There is some thick rusty/calcium-y/iron-y stuff gunked on in many places, BUT hardly anything came out with the coolant. I plan to replace the rad with a mishimoto 2 core and a slim dual fan shroud to support 12"electric fans.
Question regarding coolant: Where the heck is the drain plug for the water jackets on the block? I have seen one by the starter motor, and one tucked behind the manifold, but neither on mine /: (I spun the coolant out with the water pump manually to get it out of the lower rad hose)

As for the oil leak, it appears to be leaking at the head on top of the timing case. I should be removing the head right now but I'm on call for a pick up so that'll have to wait. Soon I will remove the timing cover just to make sure it's not leaking there, then the head comes off afterwards when i find out i wasted my time and what can go wrong did go wrong

All considerations are based off my indecisiveness; I will decide what engine/transmission goes in after I fix essentials. Of course some parts like the water pump and thermostat will go to waste when i swap but I'm itching to go out for a cruise. Ordering my goodies after the 15th next month [emoji106][emoji106][emoji16]

Thought: If I get a lower temp thermostat (160 vs 180 degrees) could i get away with a single fan on the dual fan shroud? I'm buying two fans anyway.

Thought #2: PROBLEMZ is now a viable custom plate option.

Thanks again for the read! More ideas to come.


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[bartsscooterservice]

On ‎4‎-‎5‎-‎2017 at 0:12 PM, grannyknot said:

Wes, If you are going to tackle the cooling system I would advise you to do the entire system on the first go around, the system works very well in stock configuration but the inside water passages of the engine block and rad have to be CLEAN.

Rust and corrosion don't transfer heat very well so you need to get that crap out first, while the system is all still together run some good quality radiator flush through it and don't forget to open the heater valve as well. I have also used CLR on occasion and it worked well. Then after the engine cools off flush the whole system with fresh water from the garden hose until it runs clean. You will probably be the first guy in 40yrs to have cleaned that system so expect a lot of brown crap to come out. Then replace the rad, thermostat and maybe the water pump, no more anxiety gauge

The stock 4 spd tranny is a very stable fun unit to drive, a 5th gear is nice to have if you do a lot of highway.  Your Z looks great, a good example to build with.

Chris

You'd be suprised how much the radiator has lost capacity since it left the factory ! Once mine got a new core, things changed drastically, even on a super hot day, the temperature stays moderate.  But a good flush like you said and a new thermostat could do alot.

[grannyknot]

@bartsscooterservice I'm not talking so much about the rad, they have a life span and some are better than others, I'm talking mostly about inside the water jackets and the corrosion that can build up just as notWes has shown us in his pics.  And it is not just poor heat transference, the corrosion can actually plug up coolant passages and water jackets so the engine can end up with hot spots that screw up the rings in extreme examples.

[bartsscooterservice]

9 hours ago, grannyknot said:

@bartsscooterservice I'm not talking so much about the rad, they have a life span and some are better than others, I'm talking mostly about inside the water jackets and the corrosion that can build up just as notWes has shown us in his pics.  And it is not just poor heat transference, the corrosion can actually plug up coolant passages and water jackets so the engine can end up with hot spots that screw up the rings in extreme examples.

Okay. Yes that's a big problem to.. When the engine shop rebuild my lower block there was alot of crap coming out for sure.

Edited May 10, 2017 by bartsscooterservice

[notWes]

Hello forum! 

It seems I've taken quite the hiatus in my internet life, I've missed this place and I'm very excited to have the time to be back!  

Where to start.. I guess near where I left off last. OH, before I start to ramble I'd like to state that I've named the 240z Hayami. I will likely refer to the 240z as "her" or "Hayami" or "Haya" or "Yami" (I totally scrolled back up to add nicknames as i was typing) too many times in the future of my postings. I ended up working a heck of a lot since I was here last because the not running dream car was disappointing to wake up to. I've saved enough and I'm finally ready to start my build!  

Shortly after familiarizing myself with my L24 (or any engine for that matter, heh) and its condition I came to the conclusion that my engine isn't worth my investment for where I want to be. Firstly, the non-matching ID plates on the car steered me away from a restoration. Secondly, I was too excited and jumped all over the nice body and frame 240z that I over-looked the fact it was automatic. I reaaaally enjoy manual. Thirdly, I know for a fact I will want more power (human nature?) and the limits of the L series come far too soon. Hayami has become a Resto-mod, a modific-esto to be more honest. On that note, I will need to buy another 240z for an original resto. In conclusion to my elementary school essay structure, I've decided on an RB25DET S2 swap with a wide 5 speed trans. This big ol' heart plans to spin an R200 LSD. As for suspension, brakes, body, interior, that'll be put on hold for a while. Straying quite far from my original "body and frame first!" Mindset.  

I went ahead and started removing what I can that's necessary for pulling the L24, I drained the fluids throughout the engine and drivetrain so I don't add more stains to the garage, I prepped the hood for removal and inspected my brackets and mounts. I hopped in the car and started fiddling with the dash and the instruments to see what'll get that thing off so I can do some wiring harness adjustments for the swap. Oh, I also remembered that my tie rods were a little floppy or had some play. I googled that, and of course the worst-case repercussion ends in potential fatal accident when your wheel falls off. So, Wesley is going to order replacements for those shortly. Centre console's out and transmission is ready to drop.     

I would love for any guidance or input on reputable companies, do's and don’t's during my build, experiences, the whole bit! I didn't feel like I was buying my car alone when I came here for guidance, and I want you to feel a part of my first build to return the favour ? I'll be taking lots of pictures but probably not so many videos. I'm still looking for a long nose R200 LSD which I posted a WTB for. They're surprisingly difficult to find around me; I've seen hundreds of z31's and 300zx's around... I'll be going with a 3.9 or 4.11 R200 in hopes of beating the other guy to the next red light. I'd like to pick up an engine and trans together but the combo seems to never work out, and of course when it does the cost doesn't. Hmm, 3-core radiator from Champion for cooling. AH, does anyone know of any silicone tubing specialists? Intercooler highly likely coming from McKinney, local shop quotes surprisingly2 add up to the similar cost even after shipping and USD to CAD conversion. But I want to learn how to do it all so DIY where I can (sorry pockets)! Engine, and transmission mounts also from the trusted McKinney. Oh, guys Enjuku Racing makes a really well priced rear sump oil pan w/ pick up. I was wondering if anyone has experience with this pan? It's quite a crucial part imo, but $800 USD for a rear sump pan from the others are steep. I mean it only holds oil, but by the same token IT HOLDS OIL! I'm starting to hunt on the forums for custom part makers and such, kind of feeling guilty asking when I do absolutely nothing for you guys here. That pretty much just leaves the wiring harness, jeez the harness. I don't enjoy tracing wires due to its tedious nature, as an electrician it's quite the dull task. But at least it's a relatively expensive swap component that I can save money on. Woo hoo not entirely a wrenching noob! Hmm, soldering-wrench, crimp-wrench, and multimeter-wrench... Definitely still entirely a wrenching noob.  

Anyway, that pretty much sums up where Hayami's been and will be soon! I somehow worked 330+ days this year and it went by pretty quick ? I still can't believe I own my dream car already; what a life I've been given. I'll be creeping around the forums and I'll be posting as my parts come in and as my mind runs more. Thanks for the read, from here on out it'll be more pictures and less words! Oh also, I'd like throw out another request. If anyone has any useful links for learning about rebuilds, swaps, and general auto education please do share!  

Warm regards, 

Wes  

[rturbo 930]

3 hours ago, notWes said:

 Thirdly, I know for a fact I will want more power (human nature?) and the limits of the L series come far too soon. 

What kind of power are you looking for?

[notWes]

What kind of power are you looking for?

Just a reliable 550 to the wheels is the goal!


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[rturbo 930]

Okay, I'm just curious, what kind of experience do you have with high powered cars? 550whp is a monumental amount of power in a lightweight car like a Z. I think you might be overestimating how much power you really need. 300whp in a Z is pretty damn quick. Unless you're drag racing, I just don't see the point in having much more than that since you aren't likely to be able to really use it.

[notWes]

1 minute ago, rturbo 930 said:

Okay, I'm just curious, what kind of experience do you have with high powered cars? 550whp is a monumental amount of power in a lightweight car like a Z. I think you might be overestimating how much power you really need. 300whp in a Z is pretty damn quick. Unless you're drag racing, I just don't see the point in having much more than that since you aren't likely to be able to really use it.

I've gotten to drive (for like 15 minutes) a 911, one of those new chargers SRT 392 I think, and I've sat in the new 4L C63 AMG. Not pushing limits at all whatsoever. As for Japanese turbo cars I've really only been in a 450whp~ r32 GTR and it was a hoot. I absolutely agree with you, I don't need that amount of power... But I really want it. I'll be sitting at 250whp~ for about 2 years anyways so I'll see how I like it! I'm planning for the future so I only have to buy parts once, would you say I'm waaaaay over doing it or just over doing it?

[240260280]

I have an R200 4.11.

PM me if you are interested.  I am in N.S.

[Patcon]

You're way over doing it!

These cars are really light, especially compared to the cars you just listed. Look up the curb weights. You can put all the power you want in a Z but it becomes really difficult to get it to hook up. Also the chassis is not designed for that kind of power. It takes big money to make that power and it takes big money to upgrade everything else that it demands, chassis, brakes, tranny, rear end, half shafts, drive shafts, etc. If you have 30 or 40k burning a hole in your pocket then ok...

 

[notWes]

1 minute ago, Patcon said:

You're way over doing it!

These cars are really light, especially compared to the cars you just listed. Look up the curb weights. You can put all the power you want in a Z but it becomes really difficult to get it to hook up. Also the chassis is not designed for that kind of power. It takes big money to make that power and it takes big money to upgrade everything else that it demands, chassis, brakes, tranny, rear end, half shafts, drive shafts, etc. If you have 30 or 40k burning a hole in your pocket then ok...

 

Oh boy, not even a little huh. I did take the weight into account and the chassis rigidity, however I don't know where to stop for future planning! I'm cool with adding the cross bracing and reinforcing the chassis by any means, but all future modifications will be relative to power wants. In simple terms, I will prep the car before adding power and I will choose parts based off of their power limits. Of course as I add power I'll have a better idea of where I want to be. That is a painfully large number  

I wish I could explain the power I want by the quantity of elephants I feel on my chest while accelerating.