The bottom ends on these cars are super durable.  Worst case, it might need to have the head worked on, which can be done with the engine in the car.

Moisture from the exhaust is normal.  It's a byproduct of combustion.  

You'll need a Philips head screwdriver for the hose clamps, and a 10mm socket with an extension for the valve cover bolts.  If you've rebuilt a mower engine, you can easily get the cover off and determine the source of the problem.  Remove the hose, loosen the screws (leave them in the holes), and lift the cover straight up.  It's designed for easy, often, removal.  The gasket will probably tear when you remove the cover, so try to find a new one before you start.

 If you can, take pics when you remove the cover. We all want to see what gremlin lurks under it.

Seriously just download a manual and get dirty and pull the engine if you do it by the steps it by the steps its not that bad and redo your rings

Sent from my SM-G530W using Classic Zcar Club mobile

8 hours ago, D280z said:

Seriously just download a manual and get dirty and pull the engine if you do it by the steps it by the steps its not that bad and redo your rings

Sent from my SM-G530W using Classic Zcar Club mobile
 

 I'd pull the valve cover first and look for the gremlin. You could get a bore scope and take a look at the cylinders but most of the time they're fine. I'm still betting the tapping is coming from the valve train.

Thanks for all of the responses. I'm going to jump in and lift the valve cover.  Since the engine was solid back in 03, and the tapping just started when I restarted it, I'm going to hope that is where the issue lies.  With 0 compression in one cylinder and 50 percent in the another ill keep my fingers crossed its there.  The original miles are about 87k so I'm hoping the rings are solid.  I at least have hope that since It's body spent most of its life in so cal and solid that the engine is worth the work.

6 hours ago, Kirob24 said:

 the tapping just started when I restarted it, I'm going to hope that is where the issue lies.  With 0 compression in one cylinder and 50 percent in the another ill keep my fingers crossed its there.  

Who measured the cylinder pressures that you referred to in Post #1? 

 

Mechanics at classic car shop. I'm beginning to wonder why they didn't lift the valve cover

  We all wondered that too. You don't $uppo$e they wanted to $ell you a new engine?

Any "old engine" shop that saw those numbers would think bent or stuck valve first.  Not engine rebuild.

The shop didn't try to sell him anything though.  They didn't want to work on it.  Overall, you have to wonder if they really put much effort in to the pressure checks.

A simple inspection, and a couple of measurements of your own and you'll be way better off, knowledge-wise, than you are now.  You might be able to borrow a pressure tester at a parts store.  Get the screw-in type.  

A lot of tools like compression testers are available on a rental system from the chain parts stores...

And if you get stuck, send me a PM and I might be able to swing by to lend a hand.

I've had a few Yuenglings n Pottstown.  

The fish  in the river are these weird orange and gray hybrid Koi-Carp.  My Irish buddy though they were fantastic trophy sport fish.