On 3/6/2020 at 9:24 PM, zKars said:

I've contacted Randalla and asked if I can help with supplying my version while his is un-available. I'm awaiting his reply.

You will keep waiting. Bruce Palmer sold me a couple of tubes with fittings a couple of years ago. I would try and see if i can manage with those.

  On 2/19/2018 at 12:32 AM, Mark Maras said:

 It sounds like you're taking it back to original design. I believe that you're shooting for 23 mm in the front bowl and 21 mm in the rear. Someone, anyone, correct me if I'm wrong. Opinions vary on these measurements. Most seem to like the 21 mm in the rear and if the difference in pivot point height is 2 mm, 23 mm in the front would be a good starting point. BUT you'll never truly know if the floats are correct until you pull the domes, pistons and look at the fuel level in the nozzles, 2 1/2 turns down. Then and only then will you know for sure if they're right. 

I guess these will work:

Are the drain plugs measurement M8 X 1? Fine thread?

I guess this guy in the video is getting it right:

using a 9/16 wooden stick and blowing until the tab starts closing the tip of the needle valve. I guess that once that is set you can move over and use the float synch.  

 

 

Before the age of float syncs, I set the float levels using a 9/16" drill bit. That crude measurement and 2 1/2 turns on the mixture screws always gave me light tan plugs. Go for it. I'm betting you'll find yours are very close to 9/16". Be sure to tell us what you find.

I got in touch with Randalla. He has a big batch of new Float-Sync product coming. 

Just a quick update on my Float-Sync production. I will be receiving production samples of one of the primary components later today. Should have some new units to sell before the end of April. PM me if you're interested and I'll get back to you with pricing as soon as my price quotes come back.

Sorry, should have left my direct email address. For anyone interested or having questions, you can email me at datsun.floatsync@gmail.com. I received and approved production samples of the aluminum blocks earlier today. Float Syncs will be back in inventory soon. 

I do hope Mr Randalla gets his kits out as I would have gladly bought one.

 

During the dip in supply, I bought some banjos from this Ebay seller ...

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F222198287858

 

As it happens, by a very happy coincidence, the top of the banjo is exactly 23mm from the float bowl gasket!!

 

Front carb ...

 

 

 

Rear carb ...

 

 

It seems that my ZTherapy carbs bought 6 years ago, survived the vibrations from the west coast, across the ocean to Blighty and all the abuse I’ve thrown at them to remain perfectly balanced as set up by ZT!

 

 

 

Nice but i guess a shorter banjo would allow an acrylic tube or sightglass displaying the fuel level properly.

True - but the point was that it took measurement errors out as both are machined to be exactly the same height.

 

I did start off like this though...

 

 

Well since i have some spare time i decided to take a look at my float levels and after removing the air filter noticed a weird stain on the front carburetor. I stilñ have not opened the chamber. Rear one looks ok with no stain.

This looks to me like fuel has been leaking from somewhere for a long time, given the color of the stain. Here are a few things to check. First, make sure your float level is  not set too high. If it's too high, gas may be coming out the vent tube on the fuel bowl lid, or more likely, given what I see in your pictures, your float bowl lids need new gaskets. Still it's unusual for this to happen unless very aggressively driving and sloshing fuel. I would also check to see that your fuel is not leaking due to a pin hole leak or poor sealing of the hose clips. Obviously this is an issue you should address ASAP.    

 

One of two conditions would cause that fuel stain