That's correct. The gap stays the same. A super cold plug has a very short center electrode and porcelain. The difference lies in how far the center electrode and porcelain extend past the threads into the combustion chamber.

No chance of contact with a piston? Just trying to beat @jalexquijano's questions. Thank you Mark.

The "P" in BP5ES or BP6ES is an indication of a projected tip. our cars need that to get the spark in the correct location. A B5ES would be shorter overall. The R mentioned above is a resistor. (BPR5ES)

Heat range (the number 5 or 6) is the size of the porcelain as opposed to the electrode. Has nothing to do with the overall length of the plug. 

https://www.denso.com/global/en/products-and-services/automotive-service-parts-and-accessories/plug/basic/heatrange/

Here's another "heat range" definition.  The term "heat range" is inherently confusing I think.  Not sure why they picked that term.  I would have used something like "operating temperature".  My first guess.  Anyway, NGK gives simple description of "self-cleaning".  Why is Denso talking about gas pocket capacity?  What the heck does that even mean?

The simple answer for Jalex's issue is the last sentence, I think.  Of course, then you have to define "ultimately".

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/understanding-spark-plug-heat-range

"UNDERSTANDING SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE

One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns.

A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition.

For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed."

 

3 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Here's another "heat range" definition.  The term "heat range" is inherently confusing I think.  Not sure why they picked that term.  I would have used something like "operating temperature".  My first guess.  Anyway, NGK gives simple description of "self-cleaning".  Why is Denso talking about gas pocket capacity?  What the heck does that even mean?

The simple answer for Jalex's issue is the last sentence, I think.  Of course, then you have to define "ultimately".

https://ngksparkplugs.com/en/resources/understanding-spark-plug-heat-range

"UNDERSTANDING SPARK PLUG HEAT RANGE

One of the most misunderstood aspects of spark plugs is its heat range. It is believed by many that the heat range measures spark temperature or intensity. This is incorrect as the heat range is actually a measurement of the plug’s ability to transfer heat away from the tip of the spark plug. One cannot change the temperature of how hot a fuel burns.

A hot spark plug has an insulator design that will be slower to draw heat away from the plug tip (thinner insulator mass), whereas a cold plug has an insulator design that will be faster to draw heat away from the plug tip (thicker insulator mass). For a spark plug to function properly it must have a tip temperature hot enough to invoke self-cleaning, while remaining cool enough to avoid pre-ignition.

For most vehicles, the factory recommended heat range is sufficient; however, on some modified or special-use engines, alternative heat ranges may be necessary. Often hotter heat ranges have been used to attempt to correct an underlying fuel or oil consumption problem; this is merely a cover-up fix and the underlying issues will ultimately have to be addressed."

 

 

 

I purchased it modified and swapped the cam wity a schneider 274f camshaft. 

I think you did good there, get away from that "Far" something or another race cam the Datsun Whisperer rebuilt it with.

Here's what got past me but not these other guys about two #10s. Silly mistake but when do you know if it's a reoccurring thing. Secretary building motors?

 

Should this modified engine use bp5es?

22 minutes ago, jalexquijano said:

Should this modified engine use bp5es?

Not knowing much other than what the pros have stated I would put the bpes5 in cylinder #4 and run it, check the color. All other plugs look really good to me.

Well i tested the car yesterday but due to some traffic restrictions i  just drove around some blocks between 1st and 2nd Gear. No misfire whatsoeve only some deceleration backfire. I do notice that the car is taking 5 to 8 minutes to warm up and launching from 1st speed still sluggish. Anyway of getting a faster acceleration response when lifting the clutch?

Mine pops a little on deceleration too. What's your timing set at? I think mine is all the way maxed out at 17 degrees at idle and then 34 at 2,500 rpm. That's with the zx distributor. 

9 hours ago, jalexquijano said:

Well i tested the car yesterday but due to some traffic restrictions i  just drove around some blocks between 1st and 2nd Gear. No misfire whatsoeve only some deceleration backfire. I do notice that the car is taking 5 to 8 minutes to warm up and launching from 1st speed still sluggish. Anyway of getting a faster acceleration response when lifting the clutch?

 Thicker oil will richen the fuel mixture under acceleration.

34 minutes ago, Mark Maras said:

 Thicker oil will richen the fuel mixture under acceleration.

Which brand and grade?

aNd