z32 fairlady Posted May 18, 2017 Share #1 Posted May 18, 2017 I recently acquired a 71 240Z. The car was sitting for the better part of 4 years however it started on first turn. The gentleman who owned it before did what's necessary to keep it in running condition. Although the car was drivable it would occasionally hesitate or sputter in 3rd or 4th gear at cruise speeds. It was evident there was a sediment in the fuel filter. I decided to due a tune up for good measure and ordered major tune up kit from MSA (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/12-4700). I changed the fuel filter first then started the car to ensure it started. Success. I then went to work on changing out the ignition parts. As I took the plug wires off one-by-one the old distributor cap I placed them onto the new distributor cap in same order. Remove and replaced the points set and condenser. Replaced new rotor in same order it was removed (it could only go on one way). Placed the new cap on and went to start the car. It cranks but does not start/run. As a troubleshooting step, I placed the old cap and rotor back on as well with same result. Nothing was done with the adj screw. Do I need to? I've since sourced the FSM (NICO) and did some soul searching on the forum(s). I can't seem to figure out what's wrong. The air filter was also changed. I do have plug wires on order and have compiled a list of next steps. Verify fuel, although it started after changing fuel filter. Verify spark from plugs. Waiting on new wires before pulling old plugs and verifying spark from old plugs. Set engine to TDC and confirm rotor is in #1 position. Try starting fluid Any suggestions are welcomed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7tooZ Posted May 18, 2017 Share #2 Posted May 18, 2017 Did you set the gap on the points? Some use a dwell meter. Do you know how to do these. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z32 fairlady Posted May 18, 2017 Author Share #3 Posted May 18, 2017 I did not. I can't say the FSM was clear on how to do that also. Are the point screws the set screws or the adjuster screw? Maybe the 's' is throwing me off. Quote Standard point gap is 0.45 to 0.55 mm (0.0177 to 0.0217 in). In case size is off the standard, adjustment is made by loosening point screws. Gap gauge is required for adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted May 18, 2017 Share #4 Posted May 18, 2017 Google is your friend in cases like this: https://www.google.com/search?q=setting+points&oq=setting+points&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60l3j69i61j69i60.2167j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z32 fairlady Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share #5 Posted May 19, 2017 Thanks SteveJ. I found this video to be the most helpful - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9wZvcr3v2c. In changing the fuel filter now noticed the fuel hose is cracked And I have a slight backfire probably needs some tweaking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveJ Posted May 19, 2017 Share #6 Posted May 19, 2017 Fix the fuel lines. If one is cracked, others probably are, too. 5/16 line is what you want. Next, get the timing right. After that, adjust the valves. If you still have a backfire, then adjust the carburetors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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