Captain Obvious Posted September 19, 2020 Share #133 Posted September 19, 2020 I took a quick five second look on the internets for info on the tested and turned up what appears to be a manual? Maybe?http://datsunforum.com/efi-troubleshooting-kent-moore-j25400-analyzer/ It's in .jpg form (not pdf), so reading through it is a little more difficult. I'm assuming you have already trawled the web looking for info on the tester and with that in mind, I'm assuming you've already been through this doc? I could get lost for hours looking for info... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share #134 Posted September 20, 2020 (edited) On 9/19/2020 at 10:06 AM, dutchzcarguy said: If only i could find that damn user manual...!! I know it's on the net, thanks but i meant find it here in my house.. i always prefer the original manual over a copy on the net. It would be very nice to test a 280zx system, but.. I need the adapter J25400-36.. and i don't think i'm going to find that one... Maybe i can change one of my J25400-12 adapters in a J25400-36. anyway i got other things to do.. recovering from a hernia i had over a month ago.. happy i can walk again haha.. Make a copy of the net anyway, thanks again CO! Edited September 20, 2020 by dutchzcarguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted September 20, 2020 Author Share #135 Posted September 20, 2020 I found some pic's on the net that are the supposed parts one would need if he wants to check a 1979 280zx EFI system.. This is a J25400-32 I read i need a J24500-36 adapter to check a 280zx s130 1979 model.. On the sticker it says J25400-30 ? huh... On my analyzer is a blue overlay. I need the red overlay with DATSUN on it.. But i could use some tape over the blue overlay and copy what's on the red one haha. (i bet there is not much difference.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted November 10, 2020 Author Share #136 Posted November 10, 2020 Haha.. These two parts 71854-64E00 and 71859-64E00 turn out to be... FROM A SUZUKI ??? I looked up the numbers on internet and they are shields from a suzuki? I wondered where they fit, they didn't.. not on a 280zx! Someone restoring a suzuki of subaru?? Hahaha.. I think my old painterguy slipped them in my box of parts.. not knowing they are not from a 280zx. (they are on the net for 17-18 euro a piece.) There are a few things i still have to work on.. Got some new gas springs for the rear hatch. and still have to install the pump for the rear windshield washer. and the newish.. rubbers from the front stabilizer rod need some grease.. scweaking noise.. does someone know whats best for that rubber to lube it with? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted November 12, 2020 Share #137 Posted November 12, 2020 oops 😄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted September 12, 2021 Author Share #138 Posted September 12, 2021 After about a year of driving the 280zx i decided to do the engineroom and also refresh the seals of the L28. At first i thought that i would do this in a few years but as i discovered that the engine after 42 years (!) has a small water leak into one of the cylinders i thought i better do this now. The engine runs as new but it uses a little bit of coolingwater so i took it apart and as i expected it has a small leak near a cylinder.. it was the rear (6) cylinder! The seal was damaged there it had a kink in it.. wonder if that was since it came out of the factory because there are no clues that it was ever apart.. (still the very special orig. nuts on the exhaust flange.. and all the bolts and bits are originals.) Exhaustflange nuts (these where luckily the only ones that broke off besides one on the engine that i have already repaired..) So i need to do these 3 bolts in the exh.manifold... (I have sended these nuts with 35-40 kg of old parts to the company that passifies these parts so they come back as a very clean part.. drill them out, tap them and will try to reuse them!) Cylinders looked very good you can see the honing marks very good so no need to take the pistons out! Here i found the small leak into cylinder 6! If you look good at 3-4 o'clock on the seal around this cyl. then you can see that the seal was not very well installed on this head! it has a twist in the seal. next pic at 2-3 o'clock it is very clear to see that the seal was not installed very well! Very happy that it's just the seal that was faulty! Here a cleaned up version of the head .. it's a N42 head by the way. I took the head to a firm that revise engines and they cleaned it for me.. as the head is as straight as an arrow it does not need any work. I already cleaned the valves and renewed the stem-seals of them.. Also did a valve fitment check and ground the valves (for as far as necessary) with the special abrasives.. Taking the engine out pic.. Here a top-tip for when you restore springs.. The spring is on a little peace of sheetmetal so the cleaning can be done between the "rings" It comes back as a new one! I need to take these bolt-ends out.. if you have a tip other then drill them out i like to hear from you! (I try to get them out with some oil and if not then i cut them flat of and drill them out and tap new thread in it..) AH.. i will try to do it with heat.. but tell me, what do you do.. wait till its colder again or try to turn them when still reasonable hot? Has somebody used coldspray? i try that also on the bolt (not the manifold) .. (Just bought some penatraiting oil that also cools it.. the bolt will freeze!) Next job is cleaning up the rest/ and painting of the engine and engine room.. to be continued.. 😉 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share #139 Posted September 19, 2021 (edited) This week i got my parts back from the galvano company.. Nice to see that old parts so dirty come back like new.. Here the passified nuts of the exhaust manifold.. have to drill them out and make new threads in them.. Old and new from the fuel rails (lower is '79 and upper is 82-83 rail.. Look and find the differences!) came back like new.. Lots of parts for zx.. (not only for my own..) Rare engine lower front cover for a 280zx.. Look at the old spring few pics back and this is the same one.. A pic for myself to see how it go's together again.. (the throttlebody linkage.) one of the thausands of pics in this resto.. sorted parts ... Edited October 7, 2021 by dutchzcarguy 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartsscooterservice Posted September 19, 2021 Share #140 Posted September 19, 2021 Nice and shiny😀. Looks like the exhaust stud is still in the nut ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted September 19, 2021 Author Share #141 Posted September 19, 2021 3 minutes ago, bartsscooterservice said: Looks like the exhaust stud is still in the nut ... They are! After 42 years they broke off.. Luckely only 1 other broke off at the 6th cylinder exhaust manifold, right at the end of the engine head.. i already took care of that one, head is ready for install.. only the block i have to clean and paint.. and the engineroom also.. Will take a few weeks..or month's.. depends on how well i feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mailnome Posted September 19, 2021 Share #142 Posted September 19, 2021 Awesome thread Dutch!I’ve got a 79 I’m working on and have been slowly prepping things for platting so I hope you don’t mind questions.Looking at the pictures on my phone I can’t tell if everything was Yellow/Gold Zinc Cad platted or if some were also left clear zinc. Did the heat and under shields come zinc plated from factory? I was thinking the manifold shield and the booster shield were galvanized but was not positive. Same for the under shield but I have not really looked at it yet or done any prep work to it.And I was wondering if you knew what finish was on the radiator over flow bottle bracket? Every one that I have seen out of the car is pretty rusty like mine and you can’t see it when looking at engine bay pics of cars.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share #143 Posted September 20, 2021 20 hours ago, mailnome said: heat and under shields come zinc plated from factory? Yes i think so but just zinc not that golden look.. I don't make 2 piles of stuff to zinc.. i always do the cadmium/zinc? i believe it's called? Original the car has zinc (grey-ish) and cadmium? (gold-ish) colors on the metal parts, Galvano the company that does this for me can do both but then it's twice as expensive.. i decided that it IS a car for daily drive and NOT a trailerqueen... so the parts need to be protected against rust but they don't need to be as they were factory.. as there are few zinc grey parts under the hood there is not much difference.. (It's totally possible that i spray the coolingplate under the intake with grey heatresistent paint.. and the under engine front plate black.) The under shield had a LOT of undercoating on it when i brought it to the firm for passifiing.. it had a little rust and where the undercoating was off it was zinc grey as far i remember.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dutchzcarguy Posted September 20, 2021 Author Share #144 Posted September 20, 2021 21 hours ago, mailnome said: I was wondering if you knew what finish was on the radiator over flow bottle bracket? Sorry.. the euro 280zx has no overflow bottle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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