Need to remove the rear driveline yoke and replace with a R200 conversion yoke. Is there a topic for removing/replacing U joints?

R180 and R200 have the same bolt pattern  except 1975 and 300ZX.

 

Edited May 20, 20177 yr by Zed Head

Zed head thanks but why do you jump on my posts and assume I don't know what I am talking about.

 

My R200 requires a M10 bolt and has wider spacing than my stock 71 driveline

 

My request for help was for installing new U joints. Thx don

 

 

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I'll stop. U-joints are easy, I assumed

if you didn't know how to do a u-joint you might not know about the pattern. Good luck.

That's awesome. Thank you


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I mean well.  Frankly, it still seems like you're missing some things.

If you have an R200 flange just use thr procedure in the 240Z FSM.

Sorry.

10 hours ago, 7tooZ said:

Need to remove the rear driveline yoke and replace with a R200 conversion yoke. Is there a topic for removing/replacing U joints?

Hey Don, you know I just did a search and didn't come up with much about u-joint replacement process.  For such a common thing that needs replacing on a Z, I figured we would have a few at least!  This looks like a good opportunity to start some more discussion.

The search results, feel free to rummage through them:

http://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=u-joints&page=2&sortby=relevancy

 

Back when I did this work, I found out that cheap u-joints are not the answer.  If you use the cheap ones, you'll do the job twice.. one with the cheap brand, and a second time with the quality brand.

I mean well.  Frankly, it still seems like you're missing some things.
If you have an R200 flange just use thr procedure in the 240Z FSM.
Sorry.

Okay you seems you are focused on what I don't know? So a little personal history. Been working on early Zs for over 25 years. Last time I worried about U joints was 2002 when I had my current drive line made. I had Spicer joints installed then. Currently I am adding a R200 with Mfactory LSD. The R200 is from a 300z. I purchased a conversion yoke from Zcardepot.
So help me understand what I don't know???? Cause you don't know what you don't know.

Now back to my original topic. I haven't personally performed the replacement of a Spicer joint in over 20 years. So if you know a link or have good suggestions on the actual process I would appreciate it. If you are going to be negative as you normally can be then STOP as you said earlier. I promise I can do it without you. others here offer great suggestions a positive support.
Thanks
Don



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Hey Don, you know I just did a search and didn't come up with much about u-joint replacement process.  For such a common thing that needs replacing on a Z, I figured we would have a few at least!  This looks like a good opportunity to start some more discussion.

The search results, feel free to rummage through them:

http://www.classiczcars.com/search/?&q=u-joints&page=2&sortby=relevancy

 

Back when I did this work, I found out that cheap u-joints are not the answer.  If you use the cheap ones, you'll do the job twice.. one with the cheap brand, and a second time with the quality brand.

Mike

Thanks I tried earlier today and didn't really find anything either. Last time I did it was on the C1 Vette. Never tried to do the Z. I had Spicer joints put in some 15 years ago when I had the driveline made.

Guess I'll try the old bench vice and socket method. I will check out your link first.

Thanks again for the help

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Decided I was man enough to DIY the rear joint and add the R200 yoke. Followed the recommendation on this site using a vise and sockets. It is way harder to remove than replace. Knocked a needle bearing down on the first try. Second time was a success.
Installed the Mfactory LSD and the driveline. Need to get it if the jack stands for a test run.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions


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We are sitting the same boat and didn't even know it. 

I am replacing all 4 U joints in my half shafts, I was able to get two done yesterday as the shop had to order in the other two U joints. They should be in this morning. 

I found that O Reiliy's loans out the Ball Joint remover that Mike W mentioned in your other post. Basically it is free for 3 days you just leave a big deposit. 

It worked great for half the job and then I used a large C clamp with the sockets for the reassembly of the other half.  

 

 

Did you know you can buy Spicer greasable joints from amazon. My Oreillys was more expensive and slower.


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