Head Removal Problem

[orangething]

Trying to remove the head of my n42/n42 the bolt circled in green snapped on me with one thread showing on the piece removed. Which means it should be below the block surface and not preventing me from removing the head, right? The bolt with the blue arrow felt as though it was cross threaded all the way in, and now that I have it backed out as far as it will go it just continues to spin. Ive tried prying up on it while turning it, ive tried tightening it again, ive tried beating on it in frustration...right now I have vice grips on it trying to pull it out. I dont know if they put a long bolt in a short hole and it mushroomed out on thebottom and is preventing me from getting the head off or what. I have hit it with a rubber mallet and have a pry bar wrapped in paper towels inserted in the intake port trying to yank on it, but the darn thing wont budge. And yes, I have removed the two head to front cover bolts. Does anyone have any helpful advice? 
 

[RS02]

I think you should be all clear. I don't think there's anything in the way except the bolt with blue arrow.

[orangething]

I can't get the head off, is my problem. 

[Zed Head]

Did you get the two small ones in front, to the front cover?

The bolt that spins probably has a ring of rust and/or sealant that won't let the wide threads past (edit - actually it's probably stuck on the  hole in the head gasket)..  You can clean it off later but if the bolt just spins then the threads aren't holding the head down.  Probably not the problem.

The head gasket can be sticky.  I hope that screwdriver or prybar isn't stuck between the head and block.  That would be bad.

Edited May 24, 2017 by Zed Head

[orangething]

Yeah I got the two bolts in the front, the pry bar is in an intake port

[orangething]

I'm pulling as hard as I can on it..just kind of worried about damaging the aluminum head. 

[gwri8]

I just had this adventure last fall.  

The end result was slowly using a pry bar between the lip of the head and part of the block where the PCV tube come out. I also used plastic wedges when I started to get separation.

[Zed Head]

Use  several, maybe made of wood or larger in diameter, to spread the load.  One small prybar focused on small contact point is what will cause damage.  Wrap a rag around the blade of the bar if you don't have any old shovel handles or water pipes.  You should be worried.

Has it separated at all?  Any gaps?

[orangething]

Wow, what a process. No it hasn't moved at all. I'll give that a try, I have a few pry bars maybe try to find some plastic wedges.  Guess I shouldve searched first thats a good post gave me a few things to try

9 minutes ago, gwri8 said:

I just had this adventure last fall.  

The end result was slowly using a pry bar between the lip of the head and part of the block where the PCV tube come out. I also used plastic wedges when I started to get separation.

 

[Zed Head]

I remember finding some edges where the head hangs over the block and using a piece of 2x4 against the edge and a big hammer to knock the head up and break it free.  Easier with the engine out of the car.

[siteunseen]

Stiff putty knives helped mine break loose.  I tapped a couple all the way around between the steel block and head gasket, not against the aluminium.

[siteunseen]

5 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I remember finding some edges where the head hangs over the block and using a piece of 2x4 against the edge and a big hammer to knock the head up and break it free.  Easier with the engine out of the car.

If you could find those over hangs, use a piece of wood or pipe pointed down and put a jack under it.  Put a little pressure on there then come back later and check it, then if it's not broken free more pressure.

My '77 was a PITA but a '72 just lifted right off???

Start at the back, the head gasket won't be as squished down.