Finding the Timing Notch on Crank Pulley

[TomoHawk]

Higuys,

I did this about 10 years ago, but today I put the timing light on, and with static timing, it was about 40 degrees!   I don't remember everything you needed to do to find the timing notch on the balancer/pulley, but this is what I thought you needed to do:

Take out all the spark plugs, and the engine should turn easily?  For some reason mine didn't.  I used a socket on the alternator bolt, and the pulley turned without moving the belt-  there was a LOT of resistance.  Should I engage neutral on the transmission?

Did I forget something?  I  was considering loosening the belts, but I don't think I did that last time.

Please remind me of the procedure, so I can document it for my Shop notes.Maybe it should go into the how-to section.

I was also thinking that instead of just painting the notch, I'll paint an inch or so of the balancer near the notch with white paint to help find the mark, then paint the notch itself with BLACK paint instead.  That ought to make it easier to find the notch  if some of the paint wears off.

thxZ

Edited June 17, 2017 by TomoHawk

[TomoHawk]

I also read elsewhere that the distributor clamping plate can be turned slightly, which might lead me to adjust the distributor incorrectly.  Should I remove the distributor ad check the position of the plate and its screw?  A picture of a correctly installed plate would be nice for reference.

I wonder if I put that plate on upside-down?  It would throw off the time a LOT.  Icchh-  I got a lot of work for tomorrow.

Edited June 17, 2017 by TomoHawk

[EuroDat]

Tomo,

Im not sue what your problem is. Are you saying you have 40 degree advanced at idle?

The way I find TDC is to make a tool out of an old spark plug. I punched the ceramic section out and tapped it out with an M10 tap.

That way I could use a section of M10 threaded rod (with the end nicely rounded). Rotate the engine until you see the piston (through the spark plug hole) come up and start going back down. Install the tool and adjust the M10 pin until it reaches the piston. Marked the balancer and rotate the engine forward until the piston comes back up and touches the rod again. Marked the balancer again. Exactly in the middle between those two marks is TDC. If that does not line up with your notch in the balancer, then your balancer has slip and you should replace it.

I have never tried to turn the engine by using the alternator. I doubt there would be enough friction on that pulley to stop it from slipping. Your transmission in Drive or Neutral should not make much if any difference when turning by hand. The drag you are feeling could probably be just the oil pump in the transmission.

 

Here are some photo's of my distributor. Mine works perfectly were it is set-up.

 

[Mark Maras]

 Put the trans in neutral. Otherwise you'll be turning the rest of the drive train along with the engine. The engine should turn over relatively easy without the plugs and in neutral.