Designing A/C System Using Other Cars Parts?

[Matthew Abate]

There's a new clear film that installs like traditional window tint that supposedly blocks 99% of UV rays and up to 43% of the heat coming through the glass. Also supposedly, it is legal to put it on the windshield because it is almost completely transparent. I'm going to be looking into this, and if it is in fact legal I may have a tint shop do all my glass with this stuff. It's also anti glare.

Might replace your towel solution.

Edited July 29, 2022 by Matthew Abate

[Jeff G 78]

Once you guys figure all this out, let me know.  Now that I live in AZ, I have to put A/C back in my '78.  I have all the original parts and a few spare compressors, but I'm not sure if any of it is worth using.  It was all removed over 30 years ago.  Once the temps are lower in my garage, I plan to work on my Z again.  This time of year, my garage never drops below 100F.

[HusseinHolland]

I'm going to piggy-back on this existing thread, rather than start a new one, if that's OK.

I asked a related question in Captain Obvious's heater core thread

I'm going to revamp the non-factory AC in my 75 280Z, using the accumulator/orifice tube system rather than the antiquated & less efficient expansion valve & receiver/drier setup found on most older (pre mid-late 80's) imports. I've already done this successfully on my Bertone X1/9. The main difference here is that I don't have the factory control head, so I'll likely need to use one of the aftermarket rotary t/stat w/capillary controllers to regulate it. 

I've bought a universal 12x25" condenser, orifice tube 'repair' kit (Santech ‎MT0669) and a GM accumulator (Four Seasons 33197) typically found found on all 700 Volvos. 

I will probably use a Sanden or Diesel-Kiki compressor, since that's what I'm familiar with from Volvo applications. I may have a new one in my basement. As long as it has the 4 mount ears I can make it fit. The clutch can be swapped out for a V-belt version.

If I keep the current line routing, rather than the factory layout with the receiver drier on the right inner fender, it will greatly simplify the layout. Question is whether I can fit the accumulator on the left side - the receiver/drier is currently stashed down on the inner fender near the manifold/downpipe. Not ideal. I may need to route the lines around to the right & put the accumulator on the existing bracket used for the vacuum tank (I presume) on right inner. That would mean much longer AC lines, so I'll have to figure that out. I have the AC beadlock crimp tool, so making lines from scratch is not a problem.

My Z currently has a 14x20" condenser, and I think having a slightly larger overall surface area (approx 300 vs 250 current) can't hurt 

 

as a side not, why the heck did Nissan route the distributor feed harness along the rad hose?? Seems like a recipe for diaster. Mine clearly got clipped by the fan at some point

 

Edited April 12, 2023 by HusseinHolland
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[Freez74]

Does the orifice tube repair kit allow you to locate it away from the evaporator?

 

[HusseinHolland]

On 4/13/2023 at 8:37 AM, Freez74 said:

Does the orifice tube repair kit allow you to locate it away from the evaporator?

Yes, the orifice tube will be in the #6 hose from the evaporator to the condenser, in the engine bay. The expansion valve gets gutted or removed if possible.

Accumulator will go pretty much where the receiver/drier was placed, but higher up. Has #12 fittings, I will step down to #10 hose. low pressure switch goes on the accumulator (Four Seasons 33197, Volvo 740 application)

Edited April 16, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Had to sketch out the overall layout. This is following the hose routing of my dealer-installed universal/generic AC kit. This is also assuming I don't use any stock factory AC lines, which is still an option I'm considering. Once I have the dash & HVAC box apart & can see what the evaporator looks like, I can make a more informed decision on that.

Seltech compressor, this one was specifically sold for Volvo 240 & 740 series cars.

I'm going to modify the steel mount bracket on mine to move the compressor back. Mine uses the rear groove on the pulley. The compressor was one of the reasons I could fit the eFan/shroud, so I'm hoping I can revisit that once I have the compressor repostioned

Definitely room to move the compressor back at least the inch or so needed

I did forget to measure the ear spacing on the new one to compare (3.25" on the installed unit), however that is a pretty standard measurement, so hopefully it's the same or I will have more work involved in modding the mount bracket

[Freez74]

Looks like a good plan.  I did something similar, but used a 14"x18" condenser and a Sanden copy compressor on the driver's side.  You sure like to use Volvo parts!

[HusseinHolland]

7 hours ago, Freez74 said:

Looks like a good plan.  I did something similar, but used a 14"x18" condenser and a Sanden copy compressor on the driver's side.  You sure like to use Volvo parts!

I've owned Volvos since I was a teenager. I have quite a stash of parts 🙂

I'm thinking of revising the compressor mount. Volvo setups all have rubber isolators on the pivot and adjusters to reduce vibrations. They use aluminum mount brackets, which I'm not prepared to modify to fit (pic of my old Volvo 740)

What I can do is weld these steel sleeves to my existing mount bracket, to match the mount design

 

[Freez74]

That should work, the Volvo looks similar to a Sanden.  I used these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322340057943

[HusseinHolland]

20 hours ago, Freez74 said:

That should work, the Volvo looks similar to a Sanden.  I used these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322340057943

 

Thanks for the link! Not sure if I would go that route, the goal is to rubber mount the compressor in the bracket, to reduce vibration when compressor is running. I have the one on my K-swap Fiat hard mounted, and I've had to be careful with the mount hardware working loose from the vibrations. That one is a top mount, which does seem more of an issue in terms of susceptibility to vibration. I went through several revisions to get it properly mounted. Having it isolated when possible just makes life easier

mockup with spare compressor

 

Edited April 20, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[Freez74]

The rubber mounts should help.  I think the vibration is mostly caused by the compressor type, I haven't noticed any with the Sanden hard mounted.  But, I have some GM cars with R4s and they are very noisy.

Edited April 20, 2023 by Freez74

[HusseinHolland]

Gathering fittings for the conversion - I'm going to put a bulkhead connector so the bay side hoses can be detached without missing with the interior connections. Down the road I will be altering the drivetrain, so I want to make it as adaptable as possible