Designing A/C System Using Other Cars Parts?

[HusseinHolland]

Figured out how I will address the relay installation issue.

I made a bracket to support a row of relay sockets cut from an '80's Volvo 700 series fuse/relay box

backside - have to be able to remove the relay socket inserts as needed

mounts using factory location of the ignition transistor module 

factory trim panel works fine

Edited September 16, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Adding switched power to one relay to be used to switch the blower fan on low (1) speed when AC is engaged

Spliced the main battery feeds to run to the ancillary power strip before going to the new fusebox

Going to use a Volvo fan speed resistor in place of the 3 speed non AC setup I have. 

I'll modify the blower casing to fit it. Opening only has to be altered slightly. Difference is this mounts from the outside, vs the stock resistor being bolted on the inside.

Top 4 pins are speeds 1-4 next 2 pins are full speed, bottom 2 are output to blower motor

Edited September 18, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Looking in the FSM at the AC related ducting and schematics, I see that factory AC came with blower ducts that sit under the dash(?) EDIT - found the left vent , working on the right vent + right elbow

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Wondering if anyone has added universal vents that approximate the factory supplied version. My Aftermarket setup had none, only center & dash end vents connected

items, 3, 12 & 13 are what I'm missing - I do have the "Y" elbow on the driver's side, just was blocked off. I have looked at vintage air, etc., however those vents all seem to be oversize for what I need

 

Edited September 18, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Another rain-drenched day 😞

On a plus note, I have both factory under dash vents & the r/s elbow on order 🙂

I couldn't work outside, so I fitted the Volvo fan speed resistor to the blower casing. M4 rivnuts to retain it, added a little extra butyl to adjust for the folded seam Nissan used here

[HusseinHolland]

pulled the compressor today, drained & flushed the Mineral oil out, added 5floz of Pag46 

DS AC under dash vent arrived

Bought Dayco 80165 1.25" ID hose (found it suggested on another Z forum) to cut & fit for the ducts

[HusseinHolland]

Right side vent & elbow duct arrived today - gave them a good clean

Ran the 3 wires for the AC t/stat through the factory harness - there were 3 empty spots Dk Gn/Wh, Gn, Gn/Wh

Cleaned up & applied rust convertor to the air intake flange

Blower casing together, flex coupling in place. Closed cell foam to seal each junction

Edited September 25, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Test fitted the blower/duct casing to check the blower resistor connectors. Had to relieve the cowl a touch to allow the connectors to be inserted/removed. I have a4 speed switch coming, so that will govern 2-5,  and 1 will be the AC-on initial speed.

(re) wiring the blower resistor - Volvo uses switched (+) to the resistor vs. Datsun's switch (-), so I'm going to change it around - primarily because I've already wired the AC-on feed as a positive input

[HusseinHolland]

Did the AC relay signal re-wire using the L terminal and repurposed the low fuel lamp for the charge indicator lamp. Works as expected.

V/reg connector, with wh-bl  connected 

while I was in the bay I repurposed unused AC system wires and moved them to the engine harness connector for Oil temp sender (Bl-Wh) and to the alternator for Voltmeter (Y-R)

I need a spot for the charge indicator lamp, so I removed the massive "Rear Defogger" lamp & fitted a red lens, then added a bulb socket plate to the rear defogger switch, similar to what the Hazard switch has. I had to cut a hole in the rear defogger & add a color plate w/icon for the defogger

re-drilled the backside to accept a bulb socket w/spade terminals 

making the bulb plate

marked area to be cut out

build plate fitted

illuminated

Last thing, the 1363449 AC relay is dead - I re-flowed the solder joints, but it still doesn't switch after the 10sec delay, so I have ordered another

 

 

Edited October 2, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

The point of getting the car running right now, was so I could vacuum & charge the AC system, to make sure there are no leaks - so I can put the dash back together & reassemble the interior...

I found that one crimp I had made was insufficient. The high side line fitting to the orifice tube leaked with the system under pressure. I re-crimped it, and was able to then fully charge the system. Pressures seem OK for an 80º afternoon, and it blows cold. Condenser fan doesn't come on until high side hits about 250, but then drops pretty quickly. Anyway, I now know the AC system is functional.

blurry pic of recrimp. Fortunately it was a fitting I could access & didn't have to remove the hose to do the job.

 

[HusseinHolland]

Found I have another (minor) issue - the T/stat can't be bolted to the console - the threaded section is too short for the depth of the console.

I made a face plate using a Volvo 240 part. What I'm going to need is a shouldered nut, basically a top hat.

[HusseinHolland]

I did deal with the AC switch plate. I realized a rivnut would make the perfect shoulder nut

Determined 14mm is the depth I need to seat the T/stat. Cut down a couple rivnuts until I got one that was right. Filed down the OD a touch

re-threaded to 10x1,  drilled out the cover plate to fit, notched the cap so I can tighten it down.

should fit like this

Edited October 11, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Done - had to shorten the 'nut' to 12mm for it snug in place.

Edited October 12, 2023 by HusseinHolland