Hello all,

I've been searching for the past week about converting my 1976 280z to better headlights, I'm kind of leaning towards the H4 (due to cost, original lens, etc...).

Do I need a new harness if I use the stock rated wattage (60/55)?  Which wiring harness "upgrade" plugs in directly?  Do i need it?  

Please explain why a relay(s) help?  Could I make one myself?  

I'd like to keep the stock "look", so the Hellas or Autopal?  Which H4 bulbs will give the best "white" light (not yellow)?

Do I have to holesaw my stock housings for the connectors to fit?

Where exactly am I disconnecting (and replacing/making) a harness?  engine bay?  under dash?

Are the "E-spec" housings legal?  

Thanks for any ideas

Have a good look at Daniel Stern's lighting page. Some excellent Technical articles. Particularly the page on " the myth of " Blue lights ", Daniel is a distributer for Cibie lights. Still the gold standard for H4 headlamps. I have Cibie E-Codes in my 76 and they are freakin' awesome. The 280Z's have upgraded wiring and I believe relays for the Headlights, so you don't need the Relay kits like on the 240Z.  Just clean all the connections with De-Oxit or Weicon Electrical cleaner. That makes an amazing difference.

Upgrade to a 70 or 80 amp Internal Reg alternator if you haven't already done that.  

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/

Bulb Tech Articles

 

Edit: The Cibies also have the Classic curved lens. Looks much better than some of the flat style. Compliments the curves of the car. 

 

 

 

Edited July 15, 20177 yr by Chickenman

6 hours ago, Chickenman said:

Have a good look at Daniel Stern's lighting page. Some excellent Technical articles. Particularly the page on " the myth of " Blue lights ", Daniel is a distributer for Cibie lights. Still the gold standard for H4 headlamps. I have Cibie E-Codes in my 76 and they are freakin' awesome. The 280Z's have upgraded wiring and I believe relays for the Headlights, so you don't need the Relay kits like on the 240Z.  Just clean all the connections with De-Oxit or Weicon Electrical cleaner. That makes an amazing difference.

 

Incorrect. The 280Z does NOT have relays in the headlight circuit. All of the current for the headlights go through the contacts in the headlight switch. This means the contacts can foul, just like they do in the 240Z switches. Therefore, the 280Z would benefit from a conversion to relays. The catch is that the connectors changed between the 240Z and the 260Z. While Dave Irwin @Zs-ondabrain was able to source the 240Z connectors, he could not find a vendor that had the 260Z/280Z connectors. That is why there is not a plug and play solution for the 260Z/280Z. Dave has made custom relay harnesses for owners of those cars who have supplied their own connectors.

Keep in mind that a voltage drop will severely curtail light output of the headlights. (https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html) About 16 years ago I did a relay conversion to my 240Z. The voltage at the headlights (with the car off) went from 9 to 12 volts. That means the headlights were about twice as bright as before.

To echo what SteveJ said above, there is no significant electrical difference between the 280 headlight design and the prior models. None of the years came from the factory with headlight relays, and to get full effect from any headlight, you really do need to upgrade the system and include some relays.

About E-spec, I'm no expert on the topic, but my understanding is that "E-spec" housings are legal in "E", but not here in "A".

Also, the FSM lists the stock rating as 50/40, not 60/55. Not sure what the generic sealed beams you get these days actually are, but that's what the manual says.

This is the 240 discussion but many details remain the same regarding relays, harness mods, etc. The relay is basically a remote switch for a second circuit that gets the "good stuff" more directly to the lights, providing many happy electrons, lumens, et al.

Edited July 15, 20177 yr by NVZEE

Don't overlook that there are two switches involved n the headlight circuit - the power supply (the main switch on top of the column) and the power ground (the dimmer).  For whatever reason, the dimmer switch doesn't seem to foul, or heat up and fall apart, like the main switch does.  Although it does seem to get gummed up and need contact cleaner.  The main switch does have two circuits side-by-side though, the running lights and the headlights.  So, more total heat.

My point was going to be that you can do one at a time.  I bypassed the power sixths with a relay at the fuse box, but left the dimmer switch alone.

Edited July 15, 20177 yr by Zed Head

Hi,

Cibie lights with H4's are terrific. Contact Stern; he knows bulbs.

George

7 hours ago, Captain Obvious said:

 

Also, the FSM lists the stock rating as 50/40, not 60/55. Not sure what the generic sealed beams you get these days actually are, but that's what the manual says.

 

1 hour ago, Dr. 240Z said:

Hi,

Cibie lights with H4's are terrific. Contact Stern; he knows bulbs.

George

If anyone is ordering H4 bulbs from Daniel Stern don't make the mistake of trying to order a brighter bulb from him, I tried to order a couple of 80/55 and I was cut off like that, "No more soup for you!" Even though I had ordered lots of stuff from him before he never replied to me again. You've been warned

Really? Cut off? Did you and he discuss the destination application for the bulbs? 

Did he know you were putting 80/55 bulbs into a vehicle originally designed for something less? That's some strong CYA!!

I don't know for sure what his reasons were, maybe he doesn't like high beams that are brighter than stock.

But it is a great site with lots of good info.

Well I would guess in todays litigious times, maybe he thinks he could be held liable for selling you something that drew more current than the original system was designed for. Especially if your lawyers came calling after your car burned to the ground. With you in it. And a nun. On a bridge that then subsequently collapsed and crushed an orphanage.

Or maybe he just doesn't like guys named Granny? 

My name was 87M6chris back then, granny is the neutral, multi forum name