L28 280Z Car engine problems!!!

[Jdizz07]

Hi all, 

Happy New years to everyone. After taking the leap of faith and tearing the engine down and rebuilding it, Im now at the nervous point whereby you hope everything is done correctly and hope she fires up.... and she didnt....

So some basic background on the engine.

When I received it was running very rich and since checking compression and tearing done the head, found a bad valve seat in Cyl 1. After reconditioning the head,  replacing the rings, big ends, new camshaft (after my original was stolen) put is all back together and she cranks over but does not fire.

I have spark, I have petrol (injectors are spraying on crank over). Now to my nightmare....

The wiring was in pretty bad nick when i got the car, but have continuity tested all wires from the ECU and everything check out, the problem is some of the sensors have broken. 

The thermo-time switch is broken, as well as the brittle wires from the water temperature switch have broken. (see photos below) The car was also running a vacuum switch solenoid on top of the thermostat housing, (originally from Cali) which also has broken, leaving me with a some lose vacuum lines and wires I have no idea if that is contributing to it not starting. These parts are not cheap buying new, i think a new thermo-time switch is about £80 by the time i get it shipped to the UK, not really money well spent. 

Can any of you guys point me in the right direction of potentially removing/blocking up/ resolving these niggly problems and if they contribute to the car not wanting to fire???

Sorry for all the photos, but unsure where to start... any advice on any of these issues would be greatly appreciated. 

Many thanks, 

JD

 

[siteunseen]

All those are small things, it should crank and run without all that crap.  Not drive but crank.

The broken wire goes onto the BCDD right above it, to the right.  No big deal yet.

The vacuum canister and dizzy hose go into a T fitting, one goes to the cannister the other to the vacuum advance.  no effect until driving.

You could take the thermotine and other sensor out, clean them and solder the wires directly onto their positions.

Your first picture is the dash pot, I don't run one on my '77.  They are to keep the RPM from falling too fast and are open to the atmosphere.  Yours is missing the smaller hole car but that's no big deal.

That vacuum module with the wires cut and the port broken somehow ties into the EGR, or BPT.  Can't remember but mines gone.  Does it go on the heating plate and the hose comes out of the thermal vacuum switch?  

If it won't crank after a rebuild you've got deeper problems than what you've shown above.  Check the spark plug wires and firing order, loosen the dizzy and have someone crank on the car while turning the cap and see if you can get it to hit.

Good luck.

[siteunseen]

I guess you should plug all the open hoses.  Didn't think of that earlier, sorry.

[Zed Head]

As site says it should start without any of those broken items.  Except for the BCDD and the dash pot they are all to make cold starting and running easier but shouldn't stop it from starting.

Maybe add some details about what it sounds like when it's turning over.  You said that you have spark and fuel.  Are you even getting a pop?  Spark plus gasoline almost always gets at least a pop.

[siteunseen]

Make sure you have plenty of fuel in the tank and a strong battery.  Is it a newly rebuilt?  First time cranking?  The oil pump and distributor spindle must be right on.  Did you time everything with the first two cam lobes up like rabbit ears?  True top dead center.

[Jdizz07]

Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate it.

I originally cranked it over post-rebuild without the spark plugs to get the oil up/check there is no bent valves, timing correct, etc but now thinking about your last post Site, the dizzy could be in the wrong way. (180 degrees around ), this would certainly make a difference right? I can almost assure you that the timing/tdc is correct as i had to do it twice! (broken head bolt, dont as lol). but i didnt check the dizzy when it went in.

I get a popping sound out of the AFM when i give it gas while trying to start it. Think the dizzy in the  wrong orientation is my answer! Will get to it this weekend guys and let you know. Thanks again for the help!

Cheers JD

[Zed Head]

Don't assume that it's off by "180".  There's nothing special about 180 degrees.  The tang and slot are meant to fit only one way even though they look like they could go 180 off.  You'd have to force worn parts together to do that though.

If you removed the oil pump, it's more likely that you installed it a gear tooth or two off.  It's super easy to check though.  Set the timing mark on about 10 degrees on the compression stroke  and see where the rotor is pointing.  

[Patcon]

Also did you set the valve lash cold? Early on in my life I had an L24 I rebuilt that wouldn't start. Took it to our mechanic. The valves were too tight, no compression or intake vacuum

[Jdizz07]

Hi Guys,

After a couple of dry weekends Ive managed to get back onto the Datsun engine, but shes still not running properly if at all.

I corrected the dizzy shaft tang to what appears to me to be the correct tooth. See photo below. 

Now, Ive plugged up both vacuum hoses from the dizzy and purge tank respectively (see photo on previous page)

Thermo time switch and water temp switch are both not fixed/connected either.

I can finally get her running for about 15 seconds, sounds like its seriously missing/running on 5?... and then it dies, and unable to start again. Ive done this twice. I have half a tank of gas, and getting spark. 

Im really unsure what to do now!!! Very frustrating, living in a place with limited parts and limited knowledge on these cars!.. Was even thinking of getting rid of the whole FI and going for carbs! 

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Zed Head]

34 minutes ago, Jdizz07 said:

I can finally get her running for about 15 seconds, sounds like its seriously missing/running on 5?...

Are you sure you have the plug wires in the right rotational direction?  I've had mine start and run like you describe with them on backward.  153624 counterclockwise.

[240260280]

Set of DCOE's and Intake for 1100UKP?

[Jdizz07]

Ill check the dizzy/leads but im sure Ive check them more than once to be correct. Im trying to by a second hand intake off a late 280zx so I can grab the thermotime sensor and water temp switch. But unsure this will solve anything...

The triple carbs would be my overall choice for what i would like, aesthetics and reducing the old dodgy electrics, however its a massive trade-off because I want to drive the car now, and dont want to spend the money....

Anyone got a cheap set of triples out there for me?!?!